PowerCommander Tune
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Watertown, SD
PowerCommander Tune
I have an '02 RKC that has a 95" Stage 2 kit added and a Stage 2 flash to the ECM. Stock headers and BUB Straight 8 Stealth mufflers. I added a PowerCommander and had the bike dyno tuned. The AFR is a straight line between 13 and 14. Bike runs great at highway speeds and fuel mileage is very good. But I ride a lot around town and at rpm's of 1,700 to 2,300 in 2nd, 3rd and occasionally 4th gear I get a lot of what I call balking. It just does not run smooth in those lower gears at those rpm's. Is this just normal? I know tuners want a flat line for the AFR but couldn't the PC be adjusted to smooth it out? How much, if any, does the 95" Stage 2 with SE203 cams have to do with it? Just looking for a little advice before it goes back to the tuner. Thanks.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Indiana, USA
I have an '03 with 10.5:1 Forged Pistons, 211 cams, performance heads V&H true duals and monster ovals running PCIII USB and I have no problems keeping up with my buddies CVO110 below 100 or running in 5th gear, 1200-1500 RPM's at 30-35 MPH. 1 big difference we have is you are running 203 cams and I have 211 which are more mid range torque.
Yes you can modify any cell in your fuel map to help the lower end. Go to the Dynojet site and download the program to your laptop. Take your laptop to your bike and plug in to the USB port with a USB cable. turn your ignition on and slect "Get Program" from the software.
Now you can add fuel wherever you want to see where it helps. Since you don't have a Dyno or O2 feedback, save the 1st program and save updates by date for all mods so you can go back. You are haveing problems in the 1-2k RPM range and most likely in the 5-20% throttle range, hi-lite the cells and page up once to rais e them all. Select "Send Map" and go try it out. If it helps great, if no, try again. Just remeber your paid for tune Map is sacred and you should never loose it. I keep an SD chip taped to the inside of my sidecover with the dyno map and all my updates.
Yes you can modify any cell in your fuel map to help the lower end. Go to the Dynojet site and download the program to your laptop. Take your laptop to your bike and plug in to the USB port with a USB cable. turn your ignition on and slect "Get Program" from the software.
Now you can add fuel wherever you want to see where it helps. Since you don't have a Dyno or O2 feedback, save the 1st program and save updates by date for all mods so you can go back. You are haveing problems in the 1-2k RPM range and most likely in the 5-20% throttle range, hi-lite the cells and page up once to rais e them all. Select "Send Map" and go try it out. If it helps great, if no, try again. Just remeber your paid for tune Map is sacred and you should never loose it. I keep an SD chip taped to the inside of my sidecover with the dyno map and all my updates.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 304
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From: Watertown, SD
Thanks for the advice on the PC maps. I have tried doing as you say with a different bike but not this one. As long as I have my original map saved I can play around as much as I like and always go back to the original. Since I'm certainly not an expert on the PC I get a little confused as to which cells to increase. I'm assuming that the hesitation I'm getting in the 2,000 rpm range in 2nd and 3rd gear means it need more fuel. Correct?
I have a copy of the map saved to my laptop. I also save a copy of the map on a flash drive and then carry the flash drive on the bike. that way if I'm ever traveling and the PC should happend to take a dump I can buy a new one and upload my map.
I have a copy of the map saved to my laptop. I also save a copy of the map on a flash drive and then carry the flash drive on the bike. that way if I'm ever traveling and the PC should happend to take a dump I can buy a new one and upload my map.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Out on Deranged
If your ride was dyno tuned it should already run perfectly in all rpm ranges. Just my 2 cents. I think I have experienced wht your describeing , sometimes in traffic going too slow for second the bike will want to lurch. either downshift or pull the clutch in and release it again to accelerate should work for you. one way or the other you will have pulled and released the clutch.
IMO you will drive yourself nuts testing and re-testing pc setings and trying to duplicate the trouble environments.
IMO you will drive yourself nuts testing and re-testing pc setings and trying to duplicate the trouble environments.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Indiana, USA
I think it is important to note that my understanding of the PC and mapping is a direct result of many hours rejetting AMF, Keine, S&S, and Mikuni carbs. Aslo I was a GM New Product/Process Development Engineer for many years working for Energy and Engine Management. Every Harley I have ever owned has had a tach, I watch RPM's and throttle position to make a mental note of what needs changed. I break the map into sections like low medium and high jets in a carb. If wide open throttle is the problem I work in the 80% and 100% cells. If in town riding is a problem I work in the 5% to 20% cells unless they are ping free and the ping occurs under 20-40 throttle. Ping is Lean and requires adding fuel. You need to ride and work all areas of the map to understand where you need work. Also you need to get it right in high gear before you work in the lower gears.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Watertown, SD
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Indiana, USA
Unfortunately, like most things, It depends. your balking is either because it is lean or rich, I can't tell from your description which it is and as I commented before, I would recommend your getting the map right in high gear before working in gears 2-4. You are asking how much to raise so I will assume you believe it is lean. Hi-Lite the cells you want to increase on your map and page up to move each number you have hilited 1 point. Basically 1 point = 1% more fuel than the previous number or stock map for 0, so you are making small changes, you can go to 99 or 99%. Try 2-5 points or 2-5%, your choice and ride it awhile before you decide how it is behaving. If you decide you want to change it again, make a note in the notes section for what you did not like about that program. If after a couple try's it seems you are making no progress, check your notes, if it seems things are getting worse you were most likely going the wrog way.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Watertown, SD
I am assuming it's lean but I guess a little experimenting and I'll know. I think I'll start by taking it up 3% at a time in the 2-20 throttle position and 1,250 - 2,250 rpm range.
BTW, it does run good in the high gears and once I get the rpm's above 2,500. I think the tuners concentrate mainly on getting a flat AFR getting it to run smooth in the higher gears and at higher rpms. That doesn't take into consideration some little quirks like I have in the lower gears and rpm's.
Thanks for your advice.
BTW, it does run good in the high gears and once I get the rpm's above 2,500. I think the tuners concentrate mainly on getting a flat AFR getting it to run smooth in the higher gears and at higher rpms. That doesn't take into consideration some little quirks like I have in the lower gears and rpm's.
Thanks for your advice.