Help!! electrical problem
#1
Help!! electrical problem
I have a 2000 Roadglide that I converted to a Carburetor a couple of years ago, just recently intermittently usually while of the freeway will just shut down, the radio will go off, the lights in the gages flash on and off rapidly and the bike backfires and dies, the gage lights flutter on and off the entire time it's doing this.
After aprox 5-10 seconds of creeping over to the side of the road she fires back up and keeps going ???
This is starting to happen more frequently, twice yesterday, anyone know what might be causing this besides, I believe a short, could it be a faulty ignition module or coil or ???
After aprox 5-10 seconds of creeping over to the side of the road she fires back up and keeps going ???
This is starting to happen more frequently, twice yesterday, anyone know what might be causing this besides, I believe a short, could it be a faulty ignition module or coil or ???
#2
I have a 2000 Roadglide that I converted to a Carburetor a couple of years ago, just recently intermittently usually while of the freeway will just shut down, the radio will go off, the lights in the gages flash on and off rapidly and the bike backfires and dies, the gage lights flutter on and off the entire time it's doing this.
After aprox 5-10 seconds of creeping over to the side of the road she fires back up and keeps going ???
This is starting to happen more frequently, twice yesterday, anyone know what might be causing this besides, I believe a short, could it be a faulty ignition module or coil or ???
After aprox 5-10 seconds of creeping over to the side of the road she fires back up and keeps going ???
This is starting to happen more frequently, twice yesterday, anyone know what might be causing this besides, I believe a short, could it be a faulty ignition module or coil or ???
#3
#4
#6
Can you PM me the title of the post on V Twin. I'm having g a very similar issue... What was your fix?
What was
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What was
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#7
The recall was campaign number 0113, the MoCo put in a 50 amp fuse to replace the 40 amp and the problem went away for a while then came back again in some bikes.
In 2004 they got rid of the circuit breaker and put in a 50 amp fuse, so basically what you do is buy a stinger type fuse holder run the wire that goes to the copper terminal on the circuit breaker to one side of the fuse holder and make a jumper from the silver terminal to go to the other side eliminating the circuit breaker, the op on V Twin suggests to cut the end off of the wire that goes to the copper side of the circuit breaker strip the insulation back and solder tin the end of the wire, here's the verbiage from the other post.
(Ok, Time to give back. I've been wrestling with this issue for 3 riding seasons and have finally found the fix. The problem is the main circuit breaker trips without warning and shuts the entire system down including the engine. Dangerous to say the least. After the 3rd replaced breaker and three dealers saying that there is no other fix, I did some home work and found that this problem is well known in the '02 - '03 Ultras. Excessive heat has an affect on the breaker making it trip with very little load is certain conditions. HD redesigned the circuit to a MAXI fuse in '04 and eliminated the breaker altogether. Over the weekend I made the switch to a Stinger heavy duty MAXI fuse holder. Installation was simple, The connection to the copper terminal of the breaker needs to be cut and stripped, I chose to solder tin the wire for a better connection in the fuse block lug. The other side of the breaker, (silver side) I used as a lug connector out of convenience. The only thing I needed to fabricate was a 4" piece of #10 gauge wire, solder tinned at one end and a crimped lug at the other end, to connect to the breaker post. Remember the breaker is out of the circuit, there will be nothing connected to the copper post. It worked great! The breaker was a 50 amp with the fuse setup you will only need a 40A fuse that is what the breaker was originally, Harley bumped it up when there were so many problems.
The fuse on the other hand is stable even in excessive heat, and will only "blow" if there is a true short.
You can find them on e bay for $11. For those of you that need more than 40A this holder is rated all the way up to 80A. I attached it to the inside flat black metal area under the seat and in front of the battery. 3M 2 way tape worked fine. Insert the tinned leads into the brass lugs and tighten with an Allen / hex key wrench. Hope this post saves someone else some time and effort.)
I'm sure the Op on V Twin won't mind me posting this, I take no credit for his work, hope this helps you out.
Last edited by sealdoggy04; 12-17-2013 at 08:13 AM.
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#8
Thanks Seal! I was curious to know the issue and fix. I've had very little luck to this point. Being that my bike is still under warranty, the dealer will be searching out the fix, just glad to know that it isn't just me this happens to.
In my case, I had a PC-V on the bike and when it was hot, and no matter what map I had installed, it did as yours did. It was random not constant. As soon as I disconnected the PC-V, the bike ran fine again.
I'm glad you fixed yours. I've been in that dangerous situation where I pulled onto a parkway, accelerated up to speed only to have the gauges dance, the bike sputter and then die. With nowhere to pull off. I poised my dead bike as close to the left side of the road as possible with the flashers on, pulled the seat, disconnected the PC-V, reconnected the O2 sensors and prayed... Bike started right up, ran fine and away I went!
Might not be the same fix as yours but thank you so much it gives me something to look at.
In my case, I had a PC-V on the bike and when it was hot, and no matter what map I had installed, it did as yours did. It was random not constant. As soon as I disconnected the PC-V, the bike ran fine again.
I'm glad you fixed yours. I've been in that dangerous situation where I pulled onto a parkway, accelerated up to speed only to have the gauges dance, the bike sputter and then die. With nowhere to pull off. I poised my dead bike as close to the left side of the road as possible with the flashers on, pulled the seat, disconnected the PC-V, reconnected the O2 sensors and prayed... Bike started right up, ran fine and away I went!
Might not be the same fix as yours but thank you so much it gives me something to look at.
#9
Thanks Seal! I was curious to know the issue and fix. I've had very little luck to this point. Being that my bike is still under warranty, the dealer will be searching out the fix, just glad to know that it isn't just me this happens to.
In my case, I had a PC-V on the bike and when it was hot, and no matter what map I had installed, it did as yours did. It was random not constant. As soon as I disconnected the PC-V, the bike ran fine again.
I'm glad you fixed yours. I've been in that dangerous situation where I pulled onto a parkway, accelerated up to speed only to have the gauges dance, the bike sputter and then die. With nowhere to pull off. I poised my dead bike as close to the left side of the road as possible with the flashers on, pulled the seat, disconnected the PC-V, reconnected the O2 sensors and prayed... Bike started right up, ran fine and away I went!
Might not be the same fix as yours but thank you so much it gives me something to look at.
In my case, I had a PC-V on the bike and when it was hot, and no matter what map I had installed, it did as yours did. It was random not constant. As soon as I disconnected the PC-V, the bike ran fine again.
I'm glad you fixed yours. I've been in that dangerous situation where I pulled onto a parkway, accelerated up to speed only to have the gauges dance, the bike sputter and then die. With nowhere to pull off. I poised my dead bike as close to the left side of the road as possible with the flashers on, pulled the seat, disconnected the PC-V, reconnected the O2 sensors and prayed... Bike started right up, ran fine and away I went!
Might not be the same fix as yours but thank you so much it gives me something to look at.
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