Riser Bushing Set
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 868
Likes: 6
From: Kentucky
Riser Bushing Set
Hi,
When I took off my old handlebars to replace them and add new risers, I discovered that there were no bushings present. I'm sure there is supposed to be some type of bushing setup as I can't imagine the bolt is supposed to just move freely. I've searched for bushings and all I can find are for 1973-up. My bike is a 1972 XLH.
Does anyone know where I can find bushings for a 1972 (and also, what all is included -- bushings, washers, etc...)?
Thanks,
Barry
When I took off my old handlebars to replace them and add new risers, I discovered that there were no bushings present. I'm sure there is supposed to be some type of bushing setup as I can't imagine the bolt is supposed to just move freely. I've searched for bushings and all I can find are for 1973-up. My bike is a 1972 XLH.
Does anyone know where I can find bushings for a 1972 (and also, what all is included -- bushings, washers, etc...)?
Thanks,
Barry
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 868
Likes: 6
From: Kentucky
RE: Riser Bushing Set
Well, I'm pretty sure they are supposed to be there. On the old setup the risers would go right through the hole without some washers (same with the new ones). The setup was like this:
Riser
Flat Washer
Bolt (with flat washer).
In other words it is just a bolt with a washer on either side of the hole, but there is quite a bit of space between the bolt and the frame.
Barry
Riser
Flat Washer
Bolt (with flat washer).
In other words it is just a bolt with a washer on either side of the hole, but there is quite a bit of space between the bolt and the frame.
Barry
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: Riser Bushing Set
Well Barry....
That is a good one! I looked in all of my service manuals and they all do not show anything but the top stem.
So I next checked my 1954 to 1965 XL-XLH-XLCH Parts Manual and found the stack up.
Starting from the bottom up you need:
(2) 56154-52 Handlebar mounting bolts. No size given, but they are 1/2-13 TPI.
(2) 1/2 inch lock washers
(2) 54226-45 washer, 9/16 x 1 1/8 x 1/16
(2) 58148-49 rubber mounts, handlebar. This is what you say you do not have?
(2) 56159-49 rubber washer, handlebar mounting bolt
Now for the bad news.
I cannot imagine that you are going to find the rubber mounts anywhere. Your chances are much better to find a complete top stem that has the rubber mounts installed and just buy that.
These things were pressed in at the factory, and never fell out. In my 50+ years of Harley experience I have never seen anyone needing these, unless the bike had burned up in a fire.
Let me ask you this: What were you using as a handlebar setup before you decided to install new risers? If it worked before, you should just be able to install longer bolts and be good to go. I cannot see how you could have lost these pressed in rubber mounts. Let us know more detail......pg
edit note: I meant to attach this.
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/D3C5B28BA4F4442CB1E57E5B42E6C330.jpg[/IMG]
That is a good one! I looked in all of my service manuals and they all do not show anything but the top stem.
So I next checked my 1954 to 1965 XL-XLH-XLCH Parts Manual and found the stack up.
Starting from the bottom up you need:
(2) 56154-52 Handlebar mounting bolts. No size given, but they are 1/2-13 TPI.
(2) 1/2 inch lock washers
(2) 54226-45 washer, 9/16 x 1 1/8 x 1/16
(2) 58148-49 rubber mounts, handlebar. This is what you say you do not have?
(2) 56159-49 rubber washer, handlebar mounting bolt
Now for the bad news.
I cannot imagine that you are going to find the rubber mounts anywhere. Your chances are much better to find a complete top stem that has the rubber mounts installed and just buy that.
These things were pressed in at the factory, and never fell out. In my 50+ years of Harley experience I have never seen anyone needing these, unless the bike had burned up in a fire.
Let me ask you this: What were you using as a handlebar setup before you decided to install new risers? If it worked before, you should just be able to install longer bolts and be good to go. I cannot see how you could have lost these pressed in rubber mounts. Let us know more detail......pg
edit note: I meant to attach this.
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/D3C5B28BA4F4442CB1E57E5B42E6C330.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 868
Likes: 6
From: Kentucky
RE: Riser Bushing Set
Thank you PG,
Let me try to explain. When I bought the bike it had mini-apes on it. I let my son follow me around the block (he was on the ironhead) and he dropped the bike. It bent the bars and a few other things, but thankfully he was alright. Anyway, this meant I had to replace the bars.
I bought some drag bars and six inch risers (to fit over the Porkster tank). When I took off the old setup I found that they just had flat washers under the risers and under the bolts from the bottom. That was it. That means I had a good 1/2" or more of space between the bolt and the sleeve all the way around. This just doesn't seem safe to me.
After reading your post I went down and looked this over again. There is a plastic (I think) sleeve that starts about 3/4" from the top of the hole on the tree. It is just over 1/16" thick and hangs down to about 1/2" past the bottom of the tree. It is that way on both sides. But even with that sleeve I have an 1 1/8" hole and a 1" riser. I could just put washers underneath as it was setup before, but I'm almost sure there will be a lot of give and potential hazard if I do that.
It appears that the main part I'm missing is #29 on the image you posted. I'm thinking that the sleeve I have is the outside of part #29 but the center bushing is missing.
I have posted a pics at:
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture011.jpg
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture012.jpg
Where you see the hole get smaller is where the sleeve begins. Other than that it is hollow.
I plan on taking these pics into http://www.legendmcs.com/(American Legend) later today or tomorrow to let them have a look. The guy that owns the place knows these old bikes well.
Also, on another subject, I've posted a pic on the issue I brought up earlier about my fender struts not being centered with the wheel.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture001.jpg
I really appreciate the help you, and others on this forum are willing to give. I am a real novice with this stuff and am beginning to wonder if I ought to just stick to newer bikes.
Thanks Again,
Barry
Let me try to explain. When I bought the bike it had mini-apes on it. I let my son follow me around the block (he was on the ironhead) and he dropped the bike. It bent the bars and a few other things, but thankfully he was alright. Anyway, this meant I had to replace the bars.
I bought some drag bars and six inch risers (to fit over the Porkster tank). When I took off the old setup I found that they just had flat washers under the risers and under the bolts from the bottom. That was it. That means I had a good 1/2" or more of space between the bolt and the sleeve all the way around. This just doesn't seem safe to me.
After reading your post I went down and looked this over again. There is a plastic (I think) sleeve that starts about 3/4" from the top of the hole on the tree. It is just over 1/16" thick and hangs down to about 1/2" past the bottom of the tree. It is that way on both sides. But even with that sleeve I have an 1 1/8" hole and a 1" riser. I could just put washers underneath as it was setup before, but I'm almost sure there will be a lot of give and potential hazard if I do that.
It appears that the main part I'm missing is #29 on the image you posted. I'm thinking that the sleeve I have is the outside of part #29 but the center bushing is missing.
I have posted a pics at:
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture011.jpg
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture012.jpg
Where you see the hole get smaller is where the sleeve begins. Other than that it is hollow.
I plan on taking these pics into http://www.legendmcs.com/(American Legend) later today or tomorrow to let them have a look. The guy that owns the place knows these old bikes well.
Also, on another subject, I've posted a pic on the issue I brought up earlier about my fender struts not being centered with the wheel.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture001.jpg
I really appreciate the help you, and others on this forum are willing to give. I am a real novice with this stuff and am beginning to wonder if I ought to just stick to newer bikes.
Thanks Again,
Barry
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 868
Likes: 6
From: Kentucky
RE: Riser Bushing Set
Okay, I found this on Ebay:
It replaces OEM Part# 56158-49. The lister said he does not have the washers to go with it. I'm wondering if I bought these and just used the flat washers that were on it before if it would work?
Barry
It replaces OEM Part# 56158-49. The lister said he does not have the washers to go with it. I'm wondering if I bought these and just used the flat washers that were on it before if it would work?
Barry
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: Riser Bushing Set
GET THOSE Barry!!! That is exactly what you need. You may have to have them pressed into the tree. You can use standard thick flat washers to substuite for the factory washers, top and bottom. Forget item #30 in the diagram (rubber washer) and just sub the steel washer for that.
Funny how those showed up just when you need them. That's how the system works is all I can say.
I looked at your photo of the rear wheel/fender strut relation. From what I can tell, your rear tire is closer to the right side than the left as you said. The chainline appears to be straight.
So, the answer to what you have to is this:
First of all, get yourself a good spoke wrench that fits the nipples.
Before you start....Remove the rear wheel and remove the tire. If you do not have a wheel true stand, put the wheel back in place on the bike's swing arm and secure it with the axle, spacer and nut.. Doing that, you can clamp an indicator rod on the frame next to the rim to check trueness.
Now start:
Put 1 drop of oil on each nipple where the spoke goes onto the nipple. This will allow them to turn easier.
Beginning at the valve stem:
Loosen all of the righthand spoke nipples 1 turn each.
Tighten all of the lefthand spoke nipples 1 turn each.
Go back to the right side and again loosen each righthand spoke nipple 1 turn.
Back to the left side and tighten each lefthand spoke nipple 1 turn.
You have now moved the wheel to the left side some undetermined amount and maintained the wheel true. It may be just a little out of true but it will not take much to tweek it back into position. If you set the indicator against the rim at the beginning you can now see how much you have moved the rim to the left. If you need to move it more, repeat the steps. Work in increments of one turn. This will keep you in control of things. Remember, 1 turn loosen, 1 turn tighten (on opposite side).
To tweek the wheel into final true work in 1/4 turns of the nipples and tighten/loosen only the nipples where the wheel veers off left or right.
That should bring the rim right where you want it to be...centered between the braces and running true. Let me know how it goes.......pg
Funny how those showed up just when you need them. That's how the system works is all I can say.
I looked at your photo of the rear wheel/fender strut relation. From what I can tell, your rear tire is closer to the right side than the left as you said. The chainline appears to be straight.
So, the answer to what you have to is this:
First of all, get yourself a good spoke wrench that fits the nipples.
Before you start....Remove the rear wheel and remove the tire. If you do not have a wheel true stand, put the wheel back in place on the bike's swing arm and secure it with the axle, spacer and nut.. Doing that, you can clamp an indicator rod on the frame next to the rim to check trueness.
Now start:
Put 1 drop of oil on each nipple where the spoke goes onto the nipple. This will allow them to turn easier.
Beginning at the valve stem:
Loosen all of the righthand spoke nipples 1 turn each.
Tighten all of the lefthand spoke nipples 1 turn each.
Go back to the right side and again loosen each righthand spoke nipple 1 turn.
Back to the left side and tighten each lefthand spoke nipple 1 turn.
You have now moved the wheel to the left side some undetermined amount and maintained the wheel true. It may be just a little out of true but it will not take much to tweek it back into position. If you set the indicator against the rim at the beginning you can now see how much you have moved the rim to the left. If you need to move it more, repeat the steps. Work in increments of one turn. This will keep you in control of things. Remember, 1 turn loosen, 1 turn tighten (on opposite side).
To tweek the wheel into final true work in 1/4 turns of the nipples and tighten/loosen only the nipples where the wheel veers off left or right.
That should bring the rim right where you want it to be...centered between the braces and running true. Let me know how it goes.......pg
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 868
Likes: 6
From: Kentucky
RE: Riser Bushing Set
PG,
Thanks again. I will get to the wheel as soon as I can.
The good news on the riser bushing is that it is not only available on Ebay, but it still being manufactured by aftermarket companies. My friend at American Legend (http://www.legendmcs.com) was able to order it for me. It is amazing how many parts for these old bikes are still being made. He has a couple of catalogs filled with Ironhead stuff.
Barry
Thanks again. I will get to the wheel as soon as I can.
The good news on the riser bushing is that it is not only available on Ebay, but it still being manufactured by aftermarket companies. My friend at American Legend (http://www.legendmcs.com) was able to order it for me. It is amazing how many parts for these old bikes are still being made. He has a couple of catalogs filled with Ironhead stuff.
Barry
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: Riser Bushing Set
Barry...
That's great news indeed. These bushings are what you need for the tree. I suspect you had a portion of the sleeves left, or perhaps the former owner was riding around with only flat washers jammed into place holding the handlebars in place. That's not too bright.
Good luck with the wheel reset. Let me know if you have any problems or further questions...........pg
That's great news indeed. These bushings are what you need for the tree. I suspect you had a portion of the sleeves left, or perhaps the former owner was riding around with only flat washers jammed into place holding the handlebars in place. That's not too bright.
Good luck with the wheel reset. Let me know if you have any problems or further questions...........pg
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