Thinking about a Compensator eliminator.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 667
Likes: 175
From: North Port Florida
Thinking about a Compensator eliminator.
My bike has a stage 2, now I'm thinking about a Comp. eliminator. I thought I saw a brand that was 32 teeth instead of stock with is 34. Are they worth the effort? I saw one brand that has a manual adjuster, how often would one inspect?
Harley didn't fit the compensator on a whim. It protects the crank, starter, gearbox, clutch, drive belt from the nasty shock loads that this big V twin kicks out. Do away with it at your peril. If your making big power you can break the compensator ramps and that can do a lot of damage. I broke mine, so I made new ones out of EN36T hi-tensile steel. They don't break. PM me to find out more.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11,590
Likes: 8,418
From: Inland NW
Harley didn't fit the compensator on a whim. It protects the crank, starter, gearbox, clutch, drive belt from the nasty shock loads that this big V twin kicks out. Do away with it at your peril. If your making big power you can break the compensator ramps and that can do a lot of damage. I broke mine, so I made new ones out of EN36T hi-tensile steel. They don't break. PM me to find out more.
I might like to hear more, sir!
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 597
Likes: 285
From: Gouda
An eliminator requires a lot of extra work. You'll need to upgrade your bearings, your complete clutch assembly. It'll make more noise, and not give you that much in gains unless you're taking it to the drag strip.
There is a middle ground though. Take a look at the Dark Horse Man-o-War motor sprocket. It's halfway between an eliminator and a compensator. It's got bushings that will still absorb a lot of the shock load, while being far more reliable and bulletproof than the stock comp. There is a 32T version, but unless you really need that extra gear ratio (which I don't think you do with a 128 build), I'd just stick with the 34T so your cruise control and gear indicators keep working like they should.
There is a middle ground though. Take a look at the Dark Horse Man-o-War motor sprocket. It's halfway between an eliminator and a compensator. It's got bushings that will still absorb a lot of the shock load, while being far more reliable and bulletproof than the stock comp. There is a 32T version, but unless you really need that extra gear ratio (which I don't think you do with a 128 build), I'd just stick with the 34T so your cruise control and gear indicators keep working like they should.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
I put a Dark Horse MOW 32T compensator on my 2011 Road King (versus the stock 34T) and like it a lot. All I had to do was go into Power Vision and change the gear ratios to make everything work correctly.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
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From: Carlsbad, CA
An M8 with a Stage 2 will not tear up the stock compensator. If you’ve got a highly built stop light to stop light racer...maybe then maybe consider. It’s extremely rare for someone to grenade an M8 compensator.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Dubuque, IA
I posted pics recently of a stock M8 with the compensator in pieces. Less than 5000 miles if I recall.
There's also people here with 124s running compensator eliminators with plenty of miles with no issues. In fact, I have have yet to find one instance of any adverse effects of running a solid sprocket. Can it happen? Sure. So can the compensator disintegrating.
Im sure the clunking of the worn compensator I had didn't do the bearing any good and I've seen snapped or scissored cranks WITH a compensator. It's a shitty crank and can happen with or without a compensator just like the bearing can go with or without it.
The DarkHorse 32 tooth is not really a compensator but more a cushioned sprocket. Not a bad idea but too new to really know how well it will hold up. I like the idea tho.
I went with the 30 tooth compensator eliminator from Evolution Industries in my 100/110 twincam 103B with no regrets. This spring I'll be 120+ torque. I don't exactly baby it but I don't dump the clutch at 6000rpm either.
I do plan on doing the crank but not because I'm running a solud sprocket. Because it's a weak link period.
Bottom line is common sense goes a long way in longetivity.
People said Harley put the grenade plate in sporties for a reason too. Just before they grenaded!
Not the first bad idea they've come up with. Probably not the last either.
There's also people here with 124s running compensator eliminators with plenty of miles with no issues. In fact, I have have yet to find one instance of any adverse effects of running a solid sprocket. Can it happen? Sure. So can the compensator disintegrating.
Im sure the clunking of the worn compensator I had didn't do the bearing any good and I've seen snapped or scissored cranks WITH a compensator. It's a shitty crank and can happen with or without a compensator just like the bearing can go with or without it.
The DarkHorse 32 tooth is not really a compensator but more a cushioned sprocket. Not a bad idea but too new to really know how well it will hold up. I like the idea tho.
I went with the 30 tooth compensator eliminator from Evolution Industries in my 100/110 twincam 103B with no regrets. This spring I'll be 120+ torque. I don't exactly baby it but I don't dump the clutch at 6000rpm either.
I do plan on doing the crank but not because I'm running a solud sprocket. Because it's a weak link period.
Bottom line is common sense goes a long way in longetivity.
People said Harley put the grenade plate in sporties for a reason too. Just before they grenaded!
Not the first bad idea they've come up with. Probably not the last either.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Jan 31, 2021 at 05:26 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 117
From: Southeast NC
An eliminator requires a lot of extra work. You'll need to upgrade your bearings, your complete clutch assembly. It'll make more noise, and not give you that much in gains unless you're taking it to the drag strip.
There is a middle ground though. Take a look at the Dark Horse Man-o-War motor sprocket. It's halfway between an eliminator and a compensator. It's got bushings that will still absorb a lot of the shock load, while being far more reliable and bulletproof than the stock comp. There is a 32T version, but unless you really need that extra gear ratio (which I don't think you do with a 128 build), I'd just stick with the 34T so your cruise control and gear indicators keep working like they should.
There is a middle ground though. Take a look at the Dark Horse Man-o-War motor sprocket. It's halfway between an eliminator and a compensator. It's got bushings that will still absorb a lot of the shock load, while being far more reliable and bulletproof than the stock comp. There is a 32T version, but unless you really need that extra gear ratio (which I don't think you do with a 128 build), I'd just stick with the 34T so your cruise control and gear indicators keep working like they should.