Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 04:26 PM
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Default Early build M8

Hello All,
1st time poster but long time student and I appreciate all that I have learned from this group. I have a 2017 RGU (Apr 2017 build). Bought this bike after years of Goldwings. This Road Glide has been awesome! Recently returned from a trip from Tampa to Maine and the bike was flawless save for the occasional lifter tap on cold mornings. I do all of my own wrenching and am pretty particular. As I have said, this is a Apr 2017 build and at 28000 miles, am starting to get nervous given all I have read about bad oil pumps, lifters, cuffs, etc, etc, etc. I recently followed the HD sumping service bulletin and got maybe 2 drops of oil out of the crankshaft position sensor. I plan on keeping this bike for a while. Have added whim, CB, GTS radio, XM among other goodies. Never have been interested in horse power or where on the tach is the best torque. Just want a bullet proof long distance machine. All of this being said, what is the consensus here? Upgrade oil pump? Lifters? Cuffs? Do nothing? Curious what you think. Thanks Bruce
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettewrench
Hello All,
1st time poster but long time student and I appreciate all that I have learned from this group. I have a 2017 RGU (Apr 2017 build). Bought this bike after years of Goldwings. This Road Glide has been awesome! Recently returned from a trip from Tampa to Maine and the bike was flawless save for the occasional lifter tap on cold mornings. I do all of my own wrenching and am pretty particular. As I have said, this is a Apr 2017 build and at 28000 miles, am starting to get nervous given all I have read about bad oil pumps, lifters, cuffs, etc, etc, etc. I recently followed the HD sumping service bulletin and got maybe 2 drops of oil out of the crankshaft position sensor. I plan on keeping this bike for a while. Have added whim, CB, GTS radio, XM among other goodies. Never have been interested in horse power or where on the tach is the best torque. Just want a bullet proof long distance machine. All of this being said, what is the consensus here? Upgrade oil pump? Lifters? Cuffs? Do nothing? Curious what you think. Thanks Bruce
HD even states momentary lifter noise during cold starts is normal .. if you notice a pattern of your transmission fluid dropping add the available primary vent solution.

Otherwise my vote is 'do nothing', other than to ride the heck out of it, service appropriately and just continue to enjoy it since it's been treating you well. Worrying about something that hasn't happened is like paying a bill you don't owe
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the reply, I did have some oil transfer from the trans to the primary soon after purchasing the bike. I did the service bulletin and that solved the issue. Bruce
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 06:40 PM
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I am a firm believer in getting ahead of potential issues before they occur. With your mileage, I would consider the following since you plan on keeping the bike. This would be an economical approach since you aren't looking for more performance.

Upgrade to latest Harley oil pump
New cam bearing and cam chain tensioner
New lifters
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cobra23
I am a firm believer in getting ahead of potential issues before they occur. With your mileage, I would consider the following since you plan on keeping the bike. This would be an economical approach since you aren't looking for more performance.

Upgrade to latest Harley oil pump
New cam bearing and cam chain tensioner
New lifters
which is good advice as well..thing is you are rolling the dice either way..my 2017 oil cooled 107, aside from minor trans fluid transfer, had no powertrain issues for the 40,000 miles I owned it..then my 2020 oil cooled 114 had zero problems of any kind for the 75,000 miles I owned it..and now my 24 117 RG just had the engine replaced under warranty at 19,000 miles from catastrophic failed lifter damage ....you just can't know it the current lifters and OEM camchest parts he has at 28,000 miles could go to 100K no problem or if he replaces them he gets one or more of the ones that were brand new in my 24 and failed the first year (which is obviously rare, isolated and the exception from my experience)

and OP says he does all his own wrenching..hopefully wouldn't experience this, which have seen many threads here over the years of happening to DIY owners..

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...o-cost-me.html

at the end of the day whichever way you go it all comes down to


 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettewrench
Thanks for the reply, I did have some oil transfer from the trans to the primary soon after purchasing the bike. I did the service bulletin and that solved the issue. Bruce
You added the vent, or are you talking about that early bulletin about the deflector or some such nonsense?
At 28K I would probably do nothing in your case. Me? I like to change things so it would be time for an aftermarket cam, the 2020 pump, cam bearing and some bitchin' exhaust.

It's like getting a new bike
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 07:36 PM
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Thanks for the advice, I added the vent for the transfer issue. I didn’t want to go thru the dealer nonsense with checking the level then coming back to see if it transferred. I knew it was transferring and as cheap as the kit was, I just did it myself.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 11:39 AM
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If you just want to do failure prevention, I would agree with lifters, oil pump, and cam bearing if you have to remove the cam. Lifters, I would use CompCams 85001 lifters, they are $38.95 ea. Oil pump will cost around $170. Cam bearing is less than $20. What some haven't mentioned is pushrods. You can do it without adjustable pushrods, but it makes it much easier and quicker. They can run from $180 - $350. I wouldn't bother with lifter cuffs, the plastic ones seem to hold up just fine. Haven't heard of them failing yet. So you are looking at $500 to maybe $700. If you can afford it and have the time to do it, then it you might want to. But like mjwebb said, you might ride to 100K miles with no problems. The fact that it has made it to 28,000 miles with no major problems actually makes it more likely it will continue to be trouble free, but is after all a machine. You could do these upgrades and have problems elsewhere. So any way you look at it, it is a roll of the dice.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:34 PM
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If it isn't broke, I wouldn't try to fix it!

Unless of course, I was improving performance!

Ride it until you have a problem then fix the problem!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
If you just want to do failure prevention, I would agree with lifters, oil pump, and cam bearing if you have to remove the cam. Lifters, I would use CompCams 85001 lifters, they are $38.95 ea. Oil pump will cost around $170. Cam bearing is less than $20. What some haven't mentioned is pushrods. You can do it without adjustable pushrods, but it makes it much easier and quicker. They can run from $180 - $350. I wouldn't bother with lifter cuffs, the plastic ones seem to hold up just fine. Haven't heard of them failing yet. So you are looking at $500 to maybe $700. If you can afford it and have the time to do it, then it you might want to. But like mjwebb said, you might ride to 100K miles with no problems. The fact that it has made it to 28,000 miles with no major problems actually makes it more likely it will continue to be trouble free, but is after all a machine. You could do these upgrades and have problems elsewhere. So any way you look at it, it is a roll of the dice.
Thanks! I will probably start accumulating parts and do as you mentioned. Bruce
 
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