When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've got a question about the pistons and the way they go on the rods. I have gone around the entire piston and on the outside they look exactly alike. On the inside, the only difference I can see is the raised nub on one side of the piston (1st row, 5th pic). On the teardown I took pics and noted that the side of the piston with the nub on it goes to the gear case side. I'll do the same with this as well.
Guess my question is why? I did some quick measurements and did not get ant difference in dimension, inside or outside, nor in the surface areas of any of the non rounded parts. Gotta be missing something obvious here but I sure can't tell what it is.
The only reasons for orientation are the notch in the skirt to clear the opposing rod, wrist pin offset to reduce piston noise or valve reliefs being different sizes or placement.
The original rear wheel uses a dual flange hub (aftermarket and chrome that is rusted) for the disc brake assembly. I have an early EVO dual flange hub that is really nice and painted black from the factory. The only difference I can tell between the two is the the EVO hub does not use the snap rings and the rear axle seal spacers are just a tad wider. Both take the 3/4 axle. As long as I get my spacing correct for the chain and PM brake, any reason not to go with the later hub. I built up a black paint star hub for the front (the aftermarket one was also rusted chrome) and wants to keep the hubs both black (easier maintenance). And if I can avoid having to buy a chrome aftermarket dual flange hub, that would be nice too. I do have a nice chrome 58 and up star hub that I can build up if what I am suggesting is a no-go.
Evo style............................................. .... Shovel style
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 5, 2023 at 08:03 PM.
Spacing becomes the thing only do the rotor first then make the sprocket fit the front gear BUT not all evo hubs are a thing FLST i believe is different from FLHTC type
Spacing becomes the thing only do the rotor first then make the sprocket fit the front gear BUT not all evo hubs are a thing FLST i believe is different from FLHTC type
Since the sealant (Yamabond) will not arrive until today, I spent the weekend taking apart the transmission, inspecting it and getting it ready to have it vapor blasted. From the bottom I would assume the "3 3" makes this a casting date of March 1953. Definitely had some repairs done on it. Going to need an oversize plug for the drain hole for sure. Only about 2 threads left on the inside of the hole. The lid has had some repairs done as well but it's original and for a 59 and up (has the neutral light switch in the lid).
After discussion with Eric a while back, 1955 was the last year of the machined boss with vent plug in the case, then the vent moved to the lid with the vented slot screw and the boss remained but un-machined like yours. After 3-3 casting date the next known date found in untouched bikes is 1-7 and nothing in between 53 and 57. I have 4 march 53 cases and they are not for 1953 bikes based on the machining (or lack of it) on the vent boss. For whatever reason Harley had a mountain of march 53 cases that they used for several model years.
First if you have a drill press you can convert the drain hole to a later shovel its a lot bigger thread and its corse and not the fine that was prone to stripping
second idea is the weld it solid and re do the original thread like we do with resto machines
Glyptal red eastwood sells it - sealed all the pores in alloy that is sand casted - we remove the studs and coat with the glyptal red and we paint the entire inside of everything engine and trans and it also block the heat and the oil stays cooler as its smoother then just the alloy and its also sealed and stops leaks - paint around anything anything is running against it
original design was electric motors windings painting them made them last 10 years longer running every day in factory’s
So...the oil seal from the sprocket side is actually not a '69 seal. The seal that is part of this set up is 2.4925 (diameter). The '69 oil seal is 2.3360 (diameter). The difference equates to 5/32".
The oil seal has a part number NOK AD7095F. I come up blank on a search.
I admit that I am not the most computer inclined but I can't believe the original builder used some obscure part that could not be sourced years later.
And going back thru the posts, does anyone have the app diameter of the 70-99 oils seal #12026B. John posted the pics and info earlier.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 10, 2023 at 10:59 PM.
