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2. How do I know which post with the heavy duty wire goes to the + side of the battery and which post is attached to the heavy duty wire from the starter motor
3. I assume that the smaller studs connect in the same way as they do on the wiring diagram provided by wwag.com.
a. Heavy duty wire to battery positive. Small stud next to it goes to ignition switch.
b. Heavy duty wire from starter motor. Small stud next to it goes to starter button switch.
that relay has been around since ford cars had points so it has the extra small terminal so the points dont get the full 12 volts that would burn the contacts the way a ford car are wired
it could be marked i and s on the small terminals the S is the one you use that one is a 50 amp load relay and lasts forever almost the bosch is a 30 amp evo use
twinkies use a toilet bowl handle and a pencil to work it out with
that relay has been around since ford cars had points so it has the extra small terminal so the points dont get the full 12 volts that would burn the contacts the way a ford car are wired
it could be marked i and s on the small terminals the S is the one you use that one is a 50 amp load relay and lasts forever almost the bosch is a 30 amp evo use
twinkies use a toilet bowl handle and a pencil to work it out with
Twinkies never need fixing, they're as reliable as an anvil
that relay has been around since ford cars had points so it has the extra small terminal so the points dont get the full 12 volts that would burn the contacts the way a ford car are wired
it could be marked i and s on the small terminals the S is the one you use that one is a 50 amp load relay and lasts forever almost the bosch is a 30 amp evo use
twinkies use a toilet bowl handle and a pencil to work it out with
I'd disagree on relay origins. Points were around way before relays in cars. Heck some you had to crank.. Back in the forties and before, to start the car there was a button on the floorboard that made the electrical contacts and IIRC push the starter gear into the ring..
I'd disagree on relay origins. Points were around way before relays in cars. Heck some you had to crank.. Back in the forties and before, to start the car there was a button on the floorboard that made the electrical contacts and IIRC push the starter gear into the ring..
dodge use a resister on the fire wall
GM used a resister wire from the start side of the ignition key
ford 60s used that exact relay because they did not have a solenoid on top of the starter used the right fender starter relay and it resisted the the i terminal so it could be wired to the coil
POINTS when starting just like GM and the dodge Chrysler and Plymouth desoto studebaker and AMC after
if the points were not resisted they burned and yes the coils came along are were resisted but not early
GM used a resister wire from the start side of the ignition key
ford 60s used that exact relay because they did not have a solenoid on top of the starter used the right fender starter relay and it resisted the the i terminal so it could be wired to the coil
POINTS when starting just like GM and the dodge Chrysler and Plymouth desoto studebaker and AMC after
if the points were not resisted they burned and yes the coils came along are were resisted but not early
You were saying they used a relay there?
The coils has ballast resistors that were shorted out to provide more spark when the motor was cranked.. It's funny but within the last year or 2, I found out that the early (1976 and probably up to pointless ignitions) Honda goldwings had ballast resistors on the coils. All other Hondas didn't. I worked on a lot of GLs in the late 70s.
The reason why the points burned up was too much current without a resistor on a coil that was designed for a resistor. It was like an 8 volt coil IIRC.
Yes but the other way around, I knew you couldn't leave that alone, I thought you would try to find an anvil that was in a million pieces to post up lol.
Well, the motor is back in the frame. Took a bit longer because I installed the heads after putting the bottom portion in. At age 76 I do not have the same strength I had when I was younger and had no intention of screwing up the paint cuz the clearance on the rear head is really really tight (so far only one small misstep). Used James cylinder base gaskets and Cometic head gaskets.
And the engine is not going anywhere (soon) with this motor mount.
...and I need help locating the correct position for the mousetrap please. I have this diagram. Problem is that the centering point is take off the sidecar loops which are long since gone on the 50.
Thinking maybe some could give me some approximate measurements from the bottom of the tank mounts to the center of the u-bolt for attaching the mousetrap assembly. Not sure of any other way to configure it.
Last edited by panz4ever; Oct 9, 2023 at 12:17 AM.
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