When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From the bottom I would assume the "3 3" makes this a casting date of March 1953.
Date code 3 3 at first may have indicated casting in March 1953 but it remained for some time and has also been found on trans cases of bikes as late as 1956–57 models that are unaltered from original. I cannot explain why 3 3 was used for so long. I have no examples between 3 3 and 1 58.
As of 1956 models the vent moved from the case to the lid as per Shop Dope 372. The boss in the case remained but it was not machined.
Looks like the case was machined for reverse gear although on this occasion it doesn’t help narrow things down as far as dating the case is concerned. Also in one of the earlier pictures the outer hole for an idler gear shaft appears to have been plugged.
Here’s a link to the thread I started on the Panhead and Flathead forum in 2016.
After discussion with Eric a while back, 1955 was the last year of the machined boss with vent plug in the case, then the vent moved to the lid with the vented slot screw and the boss remained but un-machined like yours. After 3-3 casting date the next known date found in untouched bikes is 1-7 and nothing in between 53 and 57.
1-7? I’d like to see date code 1-7 on a Big Twin trans case.
On Big Twin trans cases I have no examples of date codes between 3 3 and 1 58.
Eric
So............ sometime between now and 40 years ago the transmission had to have some parts changed out because there is no way that the gears are 40 years old. Granted the bike kinda went to hell about 10 years ago but that still leaves 30 years of riding and wear on the gears. And they do not show it. The only marking I can locate are the markings on a couple of the gears circled in blue. Definitely not Andrews (have their gears in my 49 and they are numbered). If these are not junk, I'll reuse them; if they are please tell me and I'll spend the money on the Andrews and sell these for cheap. The other reason is that the high speed gear is at its limits on tolerances. If I keep it I will need to have the race honed for oversized rollers (have them in my stash). If I switch out, I'll get a new race and have it sized for the new high speed gear and standard sized rollers.
One last question for today (I think). The high speed gear is set up for the later style oil seal on the end of the gear that I have on my 65. There isn't any reason not to keep that is there?
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 11, 2023 at 09:41 AM.
The triangle is Korea and old - the lined one is later 70s trans and the rest is OEM to me sight
the later seal is 2.511 diameter open back seal - and i did not find that seal on the bay but a seal company is what we would do - if the guy was an auto trans worker or anything else that seal was common to him that did the work
Front and rear cylinders. Both are 61 ci and had stroker plates under them to accommodate the 74 bottom end. But as I mentioned I am thinking of doing away with the stroker plates and going with the 74 cylinders and pistons.
I pondered changing the CID when rebuilding my '51, which of course was converted to a '66 Shovel top end. I decided to stay with a 74" engine and to keep the compression stock (for a '66) because premium in most states is typically no higher than 91~93 octane. Makes it much easier if you do any over-the-road riding. Also, the bike accelerates quickly and will go much faster than I'd ever want to ride it. Don't know about your Sis but perhaps she'd also find a 74" ample...?
BTW - for inspiration you might check out the foot controls on You Tuber Red Rider's Shovel bobber, which allow her to reach just fine with her diminutive build. She told me that her father (or the two of them, can't recall) fabricated them from some off-the-shelf pieces. Easily within your skill set, for sure.
Not as of yet. Be either next week or the week after.
Thoughts on using Sifton Solid tappet kit. Original lifter blocks were the aluminum that had beed chromed. Crome looked like the rest ($hit) from having sat in the Florida elements for at least 10 years. Bores are worn out as well. Not going to have them rechromed and bored oversize so gonna go to chromed steel.
