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3/8X24 is the correct thread early drain - when we re thread with a heli coil i paint the thread with glyptol before installing the insert i believe it uses a 7/16 thread to do the repair - time sert uses a 1/2 thread to repair the thread and if the hole is not dead center and almost never is - you will be off the shelf after drilling - so we weld it solid and re shoot it 3/8X24 and call it a day
we would also remove all of the weld you see and finesse the case so none of it is visual - the glass bead and wash epoxy the stud tops
the second picture we know a 1/8X27 taper thread is the real deal for oil retention and long thread life so we offer that as an option with a magnet as well and yes the hole was welded and re shot on center - then we paint the inside with glyptol
Last edited by johnjzjz; Apr 19, 2023 at 08:45 AM.
Got the heads back. All cleaned up but I still have one hole I will have to fill and re-drill/tap on the rear head for the valve cover screw. I'll take it in when I pick up the tranny case (drain hole filled so I can retap per Jon's suggestion)
Front...date casting code is no readable tho
Rear...date casting code Sept '50 (I think?)
I started to assemble the front intake/exhaust valves. The lower spring collar on the intake does not seat properly. I have some used collars that do fit properly. The exhaust lower collar fits but is really tight and almost has to be pried off to remove.
Question for the day. The lower collars all measure out at 0.2340 thickness. The used collars measure out at 0.2525 thickness. The difference being 0.0185. Any problem using the older collars?
Got the oil pump back on, the valve train assembled, lifter blocks in and new solids. Looked at the rollers. Marked "IKO G Japan BRVI 414603". So that's a good thing. Also made sure there was no binding in the oil pump before assembling the gear case.
And got the crankshaft seal installed. (It's the 70-99 seal #12026B.) Wasted the first one, but got it right the second time around. It's really a tight fit and you've got to be squared up almost perfectly.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 27, 2023 at 04:34 PM.
Its spring pressure that becomes an issue - in not enough or too much
picture up the springs and measure the over all length - then install the top retainer and keys and measure with a veneer between the top out side and the lower out side location the spring sits - give me that measurement - then between the top inside of the retainer and the top of the guide and picture the seal your using i will tell you the travel — i will also need the cam lift intake and exhaust or what cam are you using i have every spec
i have plenty of stock springs / and performance sets and can check on the Rimac from what you give me and then tell you if your good to go
Last edited by johnjzjz; Apr 27, 2023 at 07:18 PM.
The debris screen installation, Im not convinced it would do much but besides that I could never figure out the correct orientation. Ive seen the two parts overlayed on each other, Ive seen the screen inside the metal plate like Panz did, other times the metal plate is on the inside of the screen (opposite to panz) so it holds the screen tight against the case. With the plate on top, two cutouts facing in and the screen under it layered together then slid in seems to make sense so the two cut outs are the only path to the screen below.
K, got the transmission case back and the hole drilled an tapped for the 1/8-27 NPT magnetic plug (thanks John). Still got to get some Glyptol for the inside of the case.
Trying to figure out the next step...
#1. The nut on the mainshaft that holds the mainshaft bearing in place...does it come off counter clockwise or clockwise. I can't get it to budge at all either way. Gonna use a new bearing, nut and washer, but I'd like to get this completely disassembled.
#2. What all do I need to take to the shop to have them replace the high gear case race and size the race with the rollers? I've got the high speed gear, the rollers, case race and retaining ring set aside (along with the case). Anything else a shop will need.
#3. If I need more (like the seal needs to be in place) I'm thinking of having the cases and lid vapor blasted first, get it back and install the seal, and then take the parts to the shop for the needed work.
Last edited by panz4ever; May 3, 2023 at 08:21 PM.
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