50 el
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 8,055
Likes: 8,080
From: Canada
I went with the -73 blocks on my 48 because one of the correct aluminum ones had a crack in the slot that guides the roller wheel, then again so did a cast iron pan lifter block I had, cracked in the same place. Went with shovel blocks painted silver. As far sifton its all chinese or taiwan now I thought.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
We have been effed by Jim’s more then once with poor quality $hit - no longer use anything well some of the tools but they keep braking as well and he does not care you need to buy the tool again
we been buying the the tedds lifters and replacing the rollers with the japan units with very good luck
the lifer metal rockwells to the i OEM but the cheap rollers are well junk - so we replace them and doing that 5 years maybe
we been buying the the tedds lifters and replacing the rollers with the japan units with very good luck
the lifer metal rockwells to the i OEM but the cheap rollers are well junk - so we replace them and doing that 5 years maybe
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,499
Likes: 3,717
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Have a set of aftermarket lifter blocks (chromed) and some hydraulic lifters (came out of one of my Shovels when I switched to Velva Touch set up). The rollers on them have "Japan" on them. Need to mic the blocks and lifters to see if they are within spec. Have the conversion / adapter kit in my stash so I could just pull the hydraulic units out and replace.
Service manual states if roller is loose, force out pin, replace and re-peen. What's the definition of "loose"?
The original lifter blocks had been honed for oversize single piece lifters. Haven't a clue on the brand on the lifters or pushrods.
Any advantage/disadvantage on aluminum pushrods versus steel?
Anyone tried the replica hydraulic units offered by Tedd?
And so the jury is out on Tedd versus Jims units. What about Eastern?
Service manual states if roller is loose, force out pin, replace and re-peen. What's the definition of "loose"?
The original lifter blocks had been honed for oversize single piece lifters. Haven't a clue on the brand on the lifters or pushrods.
Any advantage/disadvantage on aluminum pushrods versus steel?
Anyone tried the replica hydraulic units offered by Tedd?
And so the jury is out on Tedd versus Jims units. What about Eastern?
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 15, 2023 at 11:29 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 8,055
Likes: 8,080
From: Canada
The aluminum pushrods are thicker so they rub on the joint where the inner and outer telescope together. You can shorten the inner tube to reduce that. If its really bad the pushrod tubes will wiggle around while the engine is running.
Nice and vague about loose rollers, I would replace them if they are used and of unknown history and the Japan rollers are good. I have a bag of them and pins so Im never stuck on something simple like that.
I would like to say that depending on where the lifters are made would matter but saying US today doesn't mean much anymore. And Mid USA sells Jims lifters, no idea where they are made.
Nice and vague about loose rollers, I would replace them if they are used and of unknown history and the Japan rollers are good. I have a bag of them and pins so Im never stuck on something simple like that.
I would like to say that depending on where the lifters are made would matter but saying US today doesn't mean much anymore. And Mid USA sells Jims lifters, no idea where they are made.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
Have a set of aftermarket lifter blocks (chromed) and some hydraulic lifters (came out of one of my Shovels when I switched to Velva Touch set up). The rollers on them have "Japan" on them. Need to mic the blocks and lifters to see if they are within spec. Have the conversion / adapter kit in my stash so I could just pull the hydraulic units out and replace.
Service manual states if roller is loose, force out pin, replace and re-peen. What's the definition of "loose"?
The original lifter blocks had been honed for oversize single piece lifters. Haven't a clue on the brand on the lifters or pushrods.
Any advantage/disadvantage on aluminum pushrods versus steel?
Anyone tried the replica hydraulic units offered by Tedd?
And so the jury is out on Tedd versus Jims units. What about Eastern?
Service manual states if roller is loose, force out pin, replace and re-peen. What's the definition of "loose"?
The original lifter blocks had been honed for oversize single piece lifters. Haven't a clue on the brand on the lifters or pushrods.
Any advantage/disadvantage on aluminum pushrods versus steel?
Anyone tried the replica hydraulic units offered by Tedd?
And so the jury is out on Tedd versus Jims units. What about Eastern?
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,499
Likes: 3,717
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
So...the hole for the drain plug is toast (might be two threads left). Can't find where I put the original either.
Is it 3/8-16?
Can I use a time-sert or will it eventually leak around/between the insert and the case?
Is it 3/8-16?
Can I use a time-sert or will it eventually leak around/between the insert and the case?