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I changed the upper triple tree handle bar bushings on my 63' this weekend.
Used a socket and 1/2" drive extension. The socket was just shy of the same diameter of the hole. drove them right out with a 3# small sledge.
The first one I tried driving out the inside and then splitting the outside with a chisel. Wasted a bunch of time and only spent 60 seconds on the second one.
K...not sure how you did it. No way to drive them "out" because the hole sizes are different on each end. Bottom is larger than the top.
My bad, same bushing 49' and up but triple tree is different. If the bushings you are holding in the pick are new, then yes you still have the outer sleeve in the housing.
If those are the old bushings then that is not a sleeve in the picture but part of the housing.
That bushing it the whole thing.
Emblems are non-magnetic. Strips below are slightly magnetic. Screws are definitely magnetic. Most of the chrome finish is worn off but I am inclined to run just as they are just because I like the way they look. Tanks, like most of the bike , will be just painted black. There will definitely be some chrome parts along with some cad and parkerized parts. Idea is to make it a solid runner, not a "show" piece by any stretch.
Nice project. I’ve seen LJ on four other 1952 Pan frames but I don’t know what the letters represent. Two of the frames have die number 23 on the steering head like yours but I don’t know the die number on the other two. One of the LJ frames was discussed on CAI in 2012 and Steve Little said he had seen one as well. The LJ forging seems consistent with at least some 1952 models.
Heads look like they have round dams and I’ve seen one before. They’re mentioned in Shop Dope 269, as are two other types of dams. I can’t remember if I’ve posted the Shop Dope on this forum before so let me know if you haven’t seen it.
Eric
Nice project. I’ve seen LJ on four other 1952 Pan frames but I don’t know what the letters represent. Two of the frames have die number 23 on the steering head like yours but I don’t know the die number on the other two. One of the LJ frames was discussed on CAI in 2012 and Steve Little said he had seen one as well. The LJ forging seems consistent with at least some 1952 models.
Heads look like they have round dams and I’ve seen one before. They’re mentioned in Shop Dope 269, as are two other types of dams. I can’t remember if I’ve posted the Shop Dope on this forum before so let me know if you haven’t seen it.
Eric
Always a pleasure when you share your information. I'd appreciate the info on Shop Dope 269. Thanks.
Shop Dope 269 mentions three types of dams but only demonstrates the rectangular version.
Here’s another rectangular dam. Under this early rear head is the usual casting number 119 482 but no date code.
Next is a round dam like yours. Under this head is casting number 119 48 and date code J 7.
This head has date code B 8. Casting number is the usual 119 482 for a rear head even though this has a dam cast-in and this is the earliest I’ve seen the diagonal type.
I imagine front heads would have received their diagonal dam at the same time as rear heads but the earliest example I have thus far of a diagonal dam on a front head is this one which has date code E8. But although the usual casting number 119 48 was being used that month, this head doesn’t have it and instead has casting number 20373-48 although I do not know why.
Eric
Dave, regarding the outer sleeve still in the risers, I would treat them like suspension bushings in a car. I would either use a die grinder to cut a slot in them then they come right out (I would go that route on your risers) or in the case of a control arm where there's a clear path right through I'll use a torch on a low setting and put a slice in the sleeve without nicking the arm.
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