400 wet sand or scotchbrite scuff pad..
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From: Toledo ohio
400 wet sand or scotchbrite scuff pad..
Getting ready to spray my tins on my 14 RK. Using colorite base/clear spray cans. Which is better on good paint, wet sand with 400, or scuff with scotchbrite. Paint is excellent so there is no need for primer. I have sprayed many cars the traditional way back in the day and a couple motorcycles. Just looking for opinions.
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Joined: Jan 2016
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From: West Virginia
i have not tried Scotchbrite. 400 might be a little too abrasive and show sanding marks after clear is applied. I would probably try 800 or 1000?...when i painted mine i put clear on shortly after paint and did not need to scuff. I did wet sand the clear with 2000 then buff due to orange peel....check my profile for pics...it took me a month in the evenings after work to paint and polish, im sure a good painter could do it way faster 
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Toledo ohio
I have used 600 dry or 400 wet with pretty much same results except the wet sand, the paper lasts longer. I have used scotch brite to scuff if the surface is smooth and don't need block sanded or repaired. This is the last thing I painted back in the late 80's before I got out of the Navy. man, I wish I still had that car. I checked out your painted parts, Looks nice.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 91
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From: West Virginia
Man that's a pretty car, and a great looking paint job. What color are you going to paint the RK? I bought through "house of colors" online. It's not bad paint for cheap. I did use their glamour clear, and its decently chip resistant but buffed hard. I might try a multi color scheme next time with brushed pin strips.
cheers brother
cheers brother
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Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Red/maroon Scotchbrite is rated 320-400ish grit. Many body shops that I know scuff factory primered aftermarket bumper covers with it before base paint.
Today's base/clear paint kinda works different than the paint of the past. My last overall paint job was using lacquer primer, wet 400 and DuPont Centari enamel with a hardener. It was the "go to" method of the day.
That said, any un catalyzed paint product will not perform like a proper, modern 2K product.
There are rattle cans that have a separate catalyzer chamber built into the bottom of the cans, but I don't think the Color Rite clears have them (I could be wrong though).
Current "base" paint is normally recommended that the primer to be finished with approx. 600-800 wet so you don't see sanding scratches, especially when using metallic colors. These products (regardless of manufacturer) will have Tech Data (TDS) sheets available to tell you the recommended prep steps, including coating, temperature, flash time, etc. Followed to a tee, there won't be any issues to speak of.
While it may go on well and initially look great, I'll bet my lunch money that the end product from the Color Rite cans won't be nearly as resistant to scratches, gasoline, etc. as a "real" base/clear job.
Do be forewarned.
Today's base/clear paint kinda works different than the paint of the past. My last overall paint job was using lacquer primer, wet 400 and DuPont Centari enamel with a hardener. It was the "go to" method of the day.
That said, any un catalyzed paint product will not perform like a proper, modern 2K product.
There are rattle cans that have a separate catalyzer chamber built into the bottom of the cans, but I don't think the Color Rite clears have them (I could be wrong though).
Current "base" paint is normally recommended that the primer to be finished with approx. 600-800 wet so you don't see sanding scratches, especially when using metallic colors. These products (regardless of manufacturer) will have Tech Data (TDS) sheets available to tell you the recommended prep steps, including coating, temperature, flash time, etc. Followed to a tee, there won't be any issues to speak of.
While it may go on well and initially look great, I'll bet my lunch money that the end product from the Color Rite cans won't be nearly as resistant to scratches, gasoline, etc. as a "real" base/clear job.
Do be forewarned.
As stated above red scotch brite is about 400 wet/dry grit and the grey pad is about 600 wet/dry grit - both of these are too coarse for what you are doing. I would use at least 1000 grit wet/dry and even up to 1500 would be fine. All you need to sand the clear to a smooth and dull surface so subsequent top coats will adhere. If you go too coarse you will see the sanding scratch marks in the new finish. Regarding the clear coat - please do not use the aerosol can. You will be disappointed in the results. This is a lacquer based product and will not be durable at all, and will not retain its glossy finish over time. It will stain with fuel, bird poop, and pretty much anything else that touches it. You really need to go with an activated product like the KK7 kit they offer. Only concern there is since it's using a spray can type propellant system the finish may come out rather textured (orange peel). If you have access to a decent quality spray gun to apply the clear with that would be the better choice. You can buy quarts of clear and activator from a local auto paint store. As far as the color goes you should be ok with the aerosol cans.
I'm happy to answer any other questions you may have.
Colin
I'm happy to answer any other questions you may have.
Colin
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Toledo ohio
Thanks Colin, the clear from Colorite says Urathane. So I will used that. I will need some sanding in the pinstripe areas to flatten them. And the bags and the rear facia will need block sanded to get a little flatter. I am cautious to use too fine of paper because the paint needs to bite into the surface. A good cut and buff will smooth out any orange peel.
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