Excessive play in shift linkage

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Apr 4, 2010 | 07:40 PM

mbroberts

Thread Starter

1st Gear

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Lexington, SC

Excessive play in shift linkage

The shift linkage on my 2004 wide glide has become loose. The forward control bottoms out and will not shift into first gear. The forward control linkage is tight, the problem appears to be on the transmission side of the linkage. The clamp allen screw on the transmission leakage is tight, but the shifter seems to have a good bit of play.

Any suggestions, before I pull off the primary?

Apr 4, 2010 | 09:20 PM

wrenchguy24

Road Master

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 982

Likes: 2

From: Cedar Rapids, Ia

We noticed on a friend of mines street glide the exact same concern!!!
Last I knew he was about to pull the primary and see what the problem is !!
You cant get that linkage off unless the primary is out of the way!!

Apr 5, 2010 | 07:10 AM

1flhtk4me

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 10,675

Likes: 95

From: Billings,Mt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbroberts

The clamp allen screw on the transmission leakage is tight, but the shifter seems to have a good bit of play.

If the shift arm screw is tight and the arm is loose, the splines on the shift shaft and/or the shift arm are stripped.

Apr 5, 2010 | 07:15 AM

BLKBAGGER

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Oct 2007

Posts: 3,450

Likes: 4

From: El Cajon Ca.

It's not easy to do but I changed the bolt out on one that I was having problems with. Used green lock tight on the splined shaft and never seize on the bolt. Got it good and tight and it fixed my problem. Otherwise the inner primary has to come off. You say the forward control bottoms. Can you pull the shifter and rotate it on the shaft?

Apr 5, 2010 | 04:39 PM

mbroberts

Thread Starter

1st Gear

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Lexington, SC

I was able to remove the clamp bolt. It was in good condition and very tight. The problem appears to be the shift lever is stripped out, but there is not enough clearance to remove the lever with the primary in place.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Apr 5, 2010 | 07:51 PM

03dragonRK

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 771

Likes: 3

From: St. Bonifacius, MN

Since you have the bolt out of the shift arm on the transmission side you should be able to pull hard on the shift levers to pull out the shaft. You may have to bang it a few times by pulling sharp on the levers to get the back lever off. When you go to install the new lever and shaft wedge something between the lever and the motor( I use a wooden hammer handle) and tap the shaft into the lever, install bolt and then finish up installing the shift levers.

Oct 27, 2014 | 11:40 PM

kempomark

Intermediate

Joined: May 2013

Posts: 29

Likes: 2

From: CO

shift rod issues...

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbroberts

Let me tell you about both of my issues. on my 95 FLH the front shift shaft spines were shot and I didn't pick it up until it was too late and lost a new shift arm in the process. Finally replace that and now the outer or heel shift stays on. Now for the back arm After much research and reading that lots of people aft this aft arm go sideways with wrecked with the splines stripped out. And like one reader said, you can't get that arm off unless you take the inner primary off. You can almost get it but there is simply NO clearence between the inner primary and the end of that aft shaft.

As I was going into change out all the tranny, inner and outer primary seals this gave me a better opportunity to replace the arm. I can say that Baker Drive train makes a hugely strong "trussed" arm with much deeper threads. Of course trying to get one from them was like pulling teeth. I ended up with a heavier arm from stock and it was like 12 bucks.

I can tell you that I used red locktite on the shaft threads and the shaft itself. Then I used red locktite on the the compression bolt too. And I can say that um, uh, I torqued it on like Arnold would have. This far not a problem. I can say in summation that clamping down on a stripped arm is just plain dumb. While I did try that, it simply ould not fix. Since I was in there it was only 5 minutes to replace the arm.

And finally I hate the rod ends. The ***** seem to be sloppy. It might be time to put new higher end ends on there. I have to figure out how to adjust that rear arm and get all the fore and aft play out of it.