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If you are out of warranty then go aftermarket. You will get more bang for your dollar.
The M8 responds really well to just a cam. It's probably the best bang for the Buck, CR-480 is a cam that works very well on the 117. Many people are happy with just the cam change. It make the bike more fun to ride, more power.
Then there are those people that want much more. My CVO Road glide was built to a 130" just as HD released their 131 kit. I took S&S cylinders for 128 build and had them bored bigger for the little extra power 2" would give. Had the heads done with over size valves and Kibble White titanium springs. Running a low lift cam to be easy on valve train, a CR-482. This cam likes higher compression, mine is at 12.1 to 1. Bike is a total blast to ride with 163 HP and 167 Torque. I have 120 torque at 2300 RPM over 140 torque at 2700 rpm and never goes below 140 till red line. At 3000 rpm I am over 150 torque and stay over it until 5700 rpm. So tons of power everywhere.
You just have to decide what you want. Fuel moto has some nice 128 kits, they get into the 150's. Those are capable of breaking the transmission. WOT into 3rd can take it out. You have to be aware of how to use the power or you can break stuff. I have been careful and in 34000 miles on the build not broke anything. Good friend took out 3rd with a WOT shift into 3rd.
If you are out of warranty then go aftermarket. You will get more bang for your dollar.
The M8 responds really well to just a cam. It's probably the best bang for the Buck, CR-480 is a cam that works very well on the 117. Many people are happy with just the cam change. It make the bike more fun to ride, more power.
Then there are those people that want much more. My CVO Road glide was built to a 130" just as HD released their 131 kit. I took S&S cylinders for 128 build and had them bored bigger for the little extra power 2" would give. Had the heads done with over size valves and Kibble White titanium springs. Running a low lift cam to be easy on valve train, a CR-482. This cam likes higher compression, mine is at 12.1 to 1. Bike is a total blast to ride with 163 HP and 167 Torque. I have 120 torque at 2300 RPM over 140 torque at 2700 rpm and never goes below 140 till red line. At 3000 rpm I am over 150 torque and stay over it until 5700 rpm. So tons of power everywhere.
You just have to decide what you want. Fuel moto has some nice 128 kits, they get into the 150's. Those are capable of breaking the transmission. WOT into 3rd can take it out. You have to be aware of how to use the power or you can break stuff. I have been careful and in 34000 miles on the build not broke anything. Good friend took out 3rd with a WOT shift into 3rd.
That is very good info.. Thx Dave! I am going to go just a CAM. That will be good enough for me.
You just have to decide what you want. Fuel moto has some nice 128 kits, they get into the 150's. Those are capable of breaking the transmission. WOT into 3rd can take it out. You have to be aware of how to use the power or you can break stuff. I have been careful and in 34000 miles on the build not broke anything. Good friend took out 3rd with a WOT shift into 3rd.
Yeah, big engine builds can get expensive if you're an aggressive rider with all the other bits that need building. In my case, once the warranty is done, I'll be doing a cam, exhaust, tune, maybe intake and TB, and done. Lopey idle, a noticeable gain in power, and not pushing other components to their breaking point. It's an 800+ pound Harley, it wasnt meant to go fast.
A real good Stage 2 will make the M* run. Have a talk with FM. If you want more talk to FM to get there. SE 131 is going to leave you disappointed. Lot of money just to say you have a 131 SE . While smaller builts smoke the 131 SE.
Not a CVO, but I had Fuel Moto punch out my 2020 RGL from a 114 to a 128". I went all in with Level A heads, the WM8-408 cam, and all the supporting goods. 153hp, 151tq.
I have since started a new project with a 2021 Low Rider S and have done a DIY cam upgrade with the Wood WM8-22XE, the Riot 2-1 exhaust, and the S&S intake manifold. This fall I'm planning to bring it back to FM for a mild 128" build.
The point is, the cams you choose for a stage 2 will play well into a mild 128" build. But if you decide to go all in with a complete 128" build later and do heads too, you'll need to revisit the cam.
On the other hand, a lot of the bolt in cams work REALLY well in a 10.75:1 128" build, getting mid-high 130s for HP and low 150s for TQ. It helps to keep cost down as you don't need to worry as much for a throttle body, heads, etc.
That's always an option too. I was just reading an entire thread in the M8 forum about only doing a stage II and if they felt it was worth it. Consensus seems to be that doing a Stage II really wakes up the M8. Maybe I'll ask Fuelmoto about just doing that as well.
Here is my dyno chart comparing my cvo 117 as a aftermarket stage 2 and then after FM built my 128. I drove 17 hours each way for them to build and tune this, you are only a few miles away so I would be there in a heartbeat to let them get to work!
That is very good info.. Thx Dave! I am going to go just a CAM. That will be good enough for me.
Most people are happy with just a good cam and tune on an M8. Much easier to make respectable power with an M8 than a twin cam. Look for a cam that builds torque early on the left side of the dyno sheet. Makes it more fun and easier to ride unless you like keeping the RPM way up. Causing the interstate you're at or just under 3000 rpm, so you want lots of torque there for good roll on power. Really nice when torque starts going up around 2200 rpm or so.
My next time around I may just do a good cam, exhaust, and breather with a good dyno tune.
Most people are happy with just a good cam and tune on an M8. Much easier to make respectable power with an M8 than a twin cam. Look for a cam that builds torque early on the left side of the dyno sheet. Makes it more fun and easier to ride unless you like keeping the RPM way up. Causing the interstate you're at or just under 3000 rpm, so you want lots of torque there for good roll on power. Really nice when torque starts going up around 2200 rpm or so.
My next time around I may just do a good cam, exhaust, and breather with a good dyno tune.
I really like the CR-480. CR is cycle rama. A good friend just used that cam with great results. Works well at stock compression, and is a drop in, no head work required. Fuel Moto sells them.
Fuel moto likes the Woods cams, WM-22x series. For drop in, the CR-460 or 480 the torque comes on easier and a little bit more from what I have seen. That said Woods has some very good drop in cams, especially the WM-22x or 22xe
I really like the CR-480. CR is cycle rama. A good friend just used that cam with great results. Works well at stock compression, and is a drop in, no head work required. Fuel Moto sells them.
Fuel moto likes the Woods cams, WM-22x series. For drop in, the CR-460 or 480 the torque comes on easier and a little bit more from what I have seen. That said Woods has some very good drop in cams, especially the WM-22x or 22xe
Thx Dave... Ya FM did suggest these... WM-22x or 22xe
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