it always amazes me , since i have trouble getting any two parts that are supposed to work together to function , that people can put together a motorcycle from a seemingly random pile of parts and not only have it run , but run for years .

 

Oh the stories I could tell you...

 

Only thing you forgot to add is the duct tape and bailing wire

 

best one I seen in a while - linkert carb throttle lever cable stay -- they used a spark plug top and drilled it and used a screw to keep it in place as well as holding the cable

and it was really worn so it had been in place many years - but the throttle receiver had too much play for me

 

This was my dads intention.... he was never by the book... he used what he had and all the miles he put on this bike I just want to be able to get it going again... it's amazing to think that I've never rode a hand clutch... hell, I even passed my motorcycle test with this thing

 

you never would have gotten it in jersey - foot down once you out and you need to do a figure 8 in 10 feet and its marked of the ground

yea everyone uses scooters

 

Thanks for the extra photos. The bike has a suicide clutch as opposed to a rocker clutch.

As I suspected, the trans case is 1965 or later. (1964-earlier did not have the studs and bosses to accommodate an aluminium inner primary.) The trans case may even be 1970 or later.

Earlier I mentioned a trans case vent screw. As of 1956 model trans cases a vent screw (H-D #34720-56) was installed thru the lid in the second hole from the front. Here’s one in a 1965 trans case. Also notice this trans has additional ID of C4+++ stamped on the front.




Your trans lid appears to be 1946 or earlier. Inside the lid you may find casting number 33-35 and maybe a date code, depending on when the lid was cast.
Kickstarter cover is AM.

Also as I suspected, the aluminium inner primary has had its solenoid area removed and a home-made section installed. Inner primary is 1970 or later. Tin outer primary is AM.

Left case is 1970 or later (maybe even 1972 or later) and it may have a belly number stamped underneath near the outer edge and somewhat toward the front—for example, 170-1234.
Engine number is not authentic. In part it looks like it says FLH? Can you post a clearer photo please.
Anything stamped on top of the left case near the rear engine mounting bolt? Maybe H or 7? Photo?

R-H case is somewhere from mid/later-52 to 62 inclusive. It too may have a belly number underneath. And it too may have something stamped on top near the rear engine mounting bolt. Again maybe H or 7?

Gear cover appears to be about mid/later-59 to 62. (Bottom rib appears short and there is no hole for an oil passage bolt.)

Cylinders may have casting ID at the base (facing each other)?

Judging by the fins on the heads (five full on left side) they appear to be somewhere from 58 to about mid-62. They may have casting ID but it’s on top and therefore not currently visible.

Rear brake operating lever appears to be the wrong way around.




Compare it with the factory photo below.
Eric

 

OP, you're getting some fantastic intel; I'm really digging this thread. Although I can't add anything to this, I have to ask. Since this is your Dad's bike, and this is the way he set it up, why are you looking to change it? A couple of guys cautioned you about the expense to do this, and I have to wonder why go to that expense. If it were my Dad's bike, I would want to keep it just the way he built it as a tribute to him and his ingenuity. Based on the menagerie of parts, I'm highly impressed that he got it put together and running at all. And given your history with it, personally, I wouldn't change a thing, except maybe to add a shift gate on the tank for safety reasons. No matter what you do, I'm really looking forward to more of this awesome bike!