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Thanks Bill - I've removed the back wheel and will check what measurements are currently after removing the sprocket and disc. I'm not seeing another solution at the moment other than pulling the wheel away from the left fender lip with the spokes.
That wheel mounting: disc, sprocket, and spacers looks correct for a mid 1970's Harley. It looks like it would take some engineering to center it. I think you need to find a proper era wheel, but would lose the disc brake in that process.
The engineering would be center the hub in swing arm and make a proper left side spacer. You will have some doing on the right side as the caliper mount is part of the spacing. Then you will need to shim the sprocket and disc brake rotor to match your centered assembly. I did that a few years ago when I took off a 200-55-17 rear tire / wheel from my 2006 Softail and switched to a 130-90-16 wheel and tire. It is probably doable but you may have to modify the heck out of the caliper mount.
After you remove the disc rotor and sprocket, put the wheel in the swing arm and see if you can make it run centered or close to center. I know guys have run them offset at least a half inch with no ill effects.
That wheel mounting: disc, sprocket, and spacers looks correct for a mid 1970's Harley. It looks like it would take some engineering to center it. I think you need to find a proper era wheel, but would lose the disc brake in that process.
The engineering would be center the hub in swing arm and make a proper left side spacer. You will have some doing on the right side as the caliper mount is part of the spacing. Then you will need to shim the sprocket and disc brake rotor to match your centered assembly. I did that a few years ago when I took off a 200-55-17 rear tire / wheel from my 2006 Softail and switched to a 130-90-16 wheel and tire. It is probably doable but you may have to modify the heck out of the caliper mount.
After you remove the disc rotor and sprocket, put the wheel in the swing arm and see if you can make it run centered or close to center. I know guys have run them offset at least a half inch with no ill effects.
Are you saying the hoop is the problem or just the hub? I have removed the disc already, but neither it or the sprocket have any effect on spacing. I could re-install the wheel right now and it would sit exactly as before. Does that wheel resemble what would have come originally on a '66 ? If that is a spacer protruding from the right side of the hub, it is held in place by a snap ring against the bearing I assume. Same for the left side, but only about half the length. I guess I have mistakenly been under the assumption that all these wheels were basicly the same dimensions as far as the hubs were concerned up until the late 70's.
Edit: After using the measuring points provided by Bill I have found the hoop is laced pretty much centered. I'm at the point of trying swapping the wheel around once I have the sprocket removed...see what that leaves me.
What I meant is put the wheel in the swing arm by itself with no disc or sprocket, also no caliper and mount. Eyeball what it will take to make the sprocket line up with the chain and brake mounting system. If it looks doable make the left side spacer (could just be a piece of PVC pipe). Put the wheel in with sprocket not bolted up; the axle and left side spacer, this will get one side mocked up and have the wheel / tire centered. Note how much shimming it will take to get the sprocket in line with the chain. You may need a flat sprocket if too far outboard or a spacer to move the disc outward if too far inboard.
Then look at trying to mount the brake caliper and mount. Make sure to see if the brake disc rotor is going to be able to line up with the brake caliper once it is all assembled. If it will, then see if the caliper mounting arm fits in the space between the hub (the little stub held in with snap rings) you can shim it to where it needs to be, i.e. shims on side of caliper mount, shims on outside of caliper mount, some combination of the two. If there is no room to mount it you will need to remove some material to make it fit in there, but eyeball it as I stated before you end up doing something that isn't going to work in the first place.
ETA: I used stacked flat washers once I had it centered up and ready for final installation until I could get the proper spacers made. Also, I do not know if the wheel will permit you to run the sprocket dish side inward if it lines up that way. The valve stem hole should be on the right side of the bike when installed on a big twin. A Sportster would be on the left. The wheels are not really reversible from that. There are different size bolts on the disc rotor and the sprocket.
I'll get the sprocket off tm and set the wheel back in place. The sprocket side is easy...the caliper is going to be the sticking point. Perhaps an aftermarket caliper/bracket will allow some movement to the right.
Ran across this '78 with the exact same set-up as mine with the exception of the wheels, so I can see it is doable. Maybe I need to start considering a change of wheels to end this aggravation. Any idea of the year model of those cast wheels?
That is what a 1978 had originally. Your 1966 had drum brakes. The swing arms are a bit different.
ETA: Your swingarm and brake caliper assembly look to be mid 1970's. It should be a snap. It will just take the right spacers.
Got the sprocket off this morning and mocked it back up on the bike. I had nearly zero options on the caliper side which is the direction of movement needed. I decided to try something completely different and it turned out to be nearly perfect in every aspect. Hope those with more experience than myself can verify if this can be a safe and doable solution.
Here it is installed, no spacers yet, with the tire nearly centered in the swingarm, disc/caliper dead on and the sprocket needing minimal shimming outboard...
Now the ugly on how this was accomplished - I simply spun the wheel around and swapped sides for the sprocket and disc. Of course now the tire valve stem is on the right-side and the directional tire is backwards, but other than that everything else is wonderful. I can either leave it as is and mount the new tire rotating correctly or re-lace the wheel with the hub reversed so the valve stem is on the left-side again. I would like to hear thoughts on this before I commit.
If the bolt holes are the same size, why not? When you say left side, do you mean the chain side? I'd leave it on the rotor side, so it's easier to get to with the bike on the jiffy stand.
Yes, left meaning chain side. These old star hubs seem to have the same diameter holes both sides. I have seen so many pictures of these bikes with the same set-up and wondered if they all had the same issue of the wheel being thrown against the left-side of the swingarm/fender. There was no way it was moving to the right any significant amount much less centered the way it was. It is now centered in the swingarm and fender, plenty of chain clearance and just plain looking right. It looks like the original left shim can go back and needs a 1/8" or so spacer on the caliper side to be complete. If everyone says this is acceptable I'm going to roll with it and move forward...this one snafu has really wracked what little brain I have left lol.
I am so relieved...this is so much better it isn't funny. A little body work to do on this rear fender, then I can prime and paint.
Last edited by rickss69; Apr 11, 2021 at 02:05 PM.
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