Bad squaky sound when the engine runs.
Hope you are all staying safe!
I need your help on this issue that started recently. I am afraid that I have to take the engine apart, but I do have a small hope that someone has heard this before and it is not something that will ruin my season. 😕
There are not much hope at this point, but I need to give the forum a try. 🙏🏻
Here is a short video where it is easy to hear the bad sound -
Kind regards
Kim
Last edited by Kimfromdk; May 10, 2021 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Missing attachment
if clean - move on to the primary - check the front compensator for shards of metal - look at the outer bell the big bolt goes into see if its dented in - if so the unit is skipping along with engine speed and making noise
the primary did it have oil in it - if it’s a belt drive the clutch hub to clutch drum rollers are dry and scraping a noise as they are seizing up
pictures if you find issues help - if none of this is an issue ask again and we will do next thing to look at
it sounds to me that it could be just a matter of checking your push rod adjustment on the front cylinder , it looks as though you have aftermarket lifter blocks , could be that the previous owner replaced the lifter blocks & probably used solid lifters, you can check by pulling the upper part of the push rod tube & then pull up on the bottom push rod cover to expose the lifter, if you don't see a spring below the push rod then you have solid lifters, either way, pull both intake & exhaust push rod tubes , you can use cloths pins to hold the tubes in the up position while you check for free play, rotate your engine so that the lifters are both at their lowest point then just use your fingers to twist & check for up & down movement in your push rods, if they have to much slack it will cause that clicking noise, it should be just a matter of lengthening the push rod so there is no slack/free movement , you want it so that there is no slack but can still rotate the push rod with your fingers. if you have hydraulic lifters & you find there is free play , could be that your hydraulic units are going bad & you need new ones, Tip : it might be easier if you take off your air cleaner & backing plate to do this check. good luck let us know how it goes !!
I did end up finding out that it was a pftt-sound from my carb, and were told it could be caused by intake valves being to tight or I need a bigger jet. Working on those two things now.
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it sounds to me that it could be just a matter of checking your push rod adjustment on the front cylinder , it looks as though you have aftermarket lifter blocks , could be that the previous owner replaced the lifter blocks & probably used solid lifters, you can check by pulling the upper part of the push rod tube & then pull up on the bottom push rod cover to expose the lifter, if you don't see a spring below the push rod then you have solid lifters, either way, pull both intake & exhaust push rod tubes , you can use cloths pins to hold the tubes in the up position while you check for free play, rotate your engine so that the lifters are both at their lowest point then just use your fingers to twist & check for up & down movement in your push rods, if they have to much slack it will cause that clicking noise, it should be just a matter of lengthening the push rod so there is no slack/free movement , you want it so that there is no slack but can still rotate the push rod with your fingers. if you have hydraulic lifters & you find there is free play , could be that your hydraulic units are going bad & you need new ones, Tip : it might be easier if you take off your air cleaner & backing plate to do this check. good luck let us know how it goes !!
Thank you for your time!
I do think you are right and that is also same advice I got from other afterwards. I have taken of the airfilter and it was soaked in gasoline despite that I had no startet it for a few days. So it is some issue with carb, and/ or valves.
I have no springs on the pushrods, so they must be solid ones. I checked all pushrods and at the lowest position I was able to spin them all, and no movement up and down. I have made a video of this. Don't mind the strange language, I am simply saying that the intake valve on front cylinder is in top and I can turn the other one around but no free-space up and down.
Pushrods
just to clarify , you should check one cylinder at a time Front or Rear but not both at the same time as you have pictured, sorry I should have ben more clear in my other post . . .












