cast wheel end play
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Eastern NC
cast wheel end play
I got my cast wheels for my *83 FXR and bead blasted all the old PURPLE, (really!!) powder coating off. Front wheel bearings were trash and rear seemed fine but decided to replace all races and bearings. After replacing races and bearings, I set the front wheel up to check the end play and got .004, good enough. The rear ended up with zero endplay. I tried to seat the races a bit further with my race install tool but gained nothing, they are properly bottomed out. The spacer measures 4.420
Options the way I see it are,
to purchase the next size spacer 4.434 and attempt to cut it to the exact length of 4.423. I'm no machinist and doubt I could cut it exactly w/o a lathe
or
use a spacer washer 43650-82 and cut the wheel spacer the thickness of the spacer (top hat) washer and then use .002 shims to get my end play. Will these spacer washers( top hat) work/fit on cast wheels stamped AMF 1978?
Options the way I see it are,
to purchase the next size spacer 4.434 and attempt to cut it to the exact length of 4.423. I'm no machinist and doubt I could cut it exactly w/o a lathe
or
use a spacer washer 43650-82 and cut the wheel spacer the thickness of the spacer (top hat) washer and then use .002 shims to get my end play. Will these spacer washers( top hat) work/fit on cast wheels stamped AMF 1978?
Last edited by Redrodyankneck; Feb 7, 2023 at 05:43 PM.
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From: la la land jerzey
We only set used play on thing with no oil or grease totally clean and nothing on it - then when its .005 you know its correct
add grease you cant feel any end play or measure it for that matter
add grease you cant feel any end play or measure it for that matter
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Eastern NC
The races and bearings are new and dry. I did not soak the new bearings in de greaser.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2020
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From: Gainesville FL
You won't know your endplay until you put a wider spacer in and measure it. The endplay now could actually be less than zero. If you do cut it you need to sneak up on the measurement as it will not be a direct one to one change. You can actually file the spacer down and measure it in a number of spots to get it flat. Super tedious, but it works.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2016
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Likes: 965
From: Eastern NC
You won't know your endplay until you put a wider spacer in and measure it. The endplay now could actually be less than zero. If you do cut it you need to sneak up on the measurement as it will not be a direct one to one change. You can actually file the spacer down and measure it in a number of spots to get it flat. Super tedious, but it works.
Do you have any experience with the hot hat wheel spacer 43650-82
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22537415833...b6706b6ed816c9
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
I did painstakingly fashion a washer 15/16OD x 3/4 ID x .o45 thick. After I used that washer along with the wheel spacer I got .045 endplay. A new spacer would be 4.434 and I need 4.423, I don;t trust that I will get is filed down spacer perfectly square but it is an option I will keep on the table.
Do you have any experience with the hot hat wheel spacer 43650-82
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22537415833...b6706b6ed816c9
Do you have any experience with the hot hat wheel spacer 43650-82
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22537415833...b6706b6ed816c9
The spoke hubs still used measured spacers thru the Evo bikes but the end play given in the manual is dangerously loose in my opinion. You need a little more in the rear because of the weight/heat. .002-.004 front, .004-.006 rear is what I set them on Tour bikes. That MUST be done with the axle and extra axle spacers or 3/4" all thread, bearings torqued, clean and dry with a dial indicator.
Using a flat washer as a shim cost me an axle and swing arm from a seized bearing many years ago. Don't mess around trying to "make something work" with your wheel bearings... not worth it.
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Eastern NC
Those are common on cast wheels. They fit the small shoulder against the bearing inner race and the larger OD against the center bearing spacer. Shims go between that washer and center spacer and from the factory, the shim side is the leading side of the axle meaning - if the axle starts thru the right side, that's the side the shims/washer go on.
The spoke hubs still used measured spacers thru the Evo bikes but the end play given in the manual is dangerously loose in my opinion. You need a little more in the rear because of the weight/heat. .002-.004 front, .004-.006 rear is what I set them on Tour bikes. That MUST be done with the axle and extra axle spacers or 3/4" all thread, bearings torqued, clean and dry with a dial indicator.
Using a flat washer as a shim cost me an axle and swing arm from a seized bearing many years ago. Don't mess around trying to "make something work" with your wheel bearings... not worth it.
The spoke hubs still used measured spacers thru the Evo bikes but the end play given in the manual is dangerously loose in my opinion. You need a little more in the rear because of the weight/heat. .002-.004 front, .004-.006 rear is what I set them on Tour bikes. That MUST be done with the axle and extra axle spacers or 3/4" all thread, bearings torqued, clean and dry with a dial indicator.
Using a flat washer as a shim cost me an axle and swing arm from a seized bearing many years ago. Don't mess around trying to "make something work" with your wheel bearings... not worth it.
Thanks for the exp. about the top hat washers.
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