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Then you may have to replace the pushrod, as it may have worn on the seal mating surface.
Or you might have too much oil in the tranny or the breather screw is either blocked or in the wrong place.
I'll dig around and investigate more. I used the ol finger method to test my levels when filling the trans oil - but it's a good index finger joint lower than the pour plug.
It's a hard shifter so it looks like I'll probably rebuild the tranny this winter.
I'll dig around and investigate more. I used the ol finger method to test my levels when filling the trans oil - but it's a good index finger joint lower than the pour plug.
It's a hard shifter so it looks like I'll probably rebuild the tranny this winter.
Personally, I would drain it out, find the correct amount to go back in (some say 16OZ, some say 24OZ) and see where that gets you.
Suspect a lot of your shifting issues are that linkage binding on the mids arm, can't see it not being a problem. Made one out of steel with an offset for one build and another gent used a hiem joint to get the offset. Play with these before tearing into it.
reading through this post it sounds like your leak is in the clutch hub nut pushrod seal area - spanner is right - empty the trans and put in 24 oz of either cjeap Dino V-tin trans oil or just use 20W-50 or 50W as a temprorary check on the leak - if you are a bit over-filled oil will find its way out that sketchy weak link in the sealing system - I should say one of the weak links - the clutch hub nut should take two seals and that is recommnded - you could also try replacing the push rod as spanner said - sometimes the rods are tapered and dont deal at all - if your leak was behind the bearing support it would be the small 25mm mainshaft seal or the maingear seal that fits in the case - as for the shifting problem - I've built a few bikes with rotary top trannies - handshifters and standards - the stock lever link is fine - just fix your drag link rod - get a cheap two bottle mini torch kit at Menards and bend that rod to clear the mid-peg mounts - or buy 5/16 rod and make a rod - buy a couple taps and thread the rod - when I run mids off the case I run them hi - jockey squat style so this does not happen - that trans lever is close to the belt so its tough to space it - but it would take like 30 total minutes to fix that link rod and then you'll have a good shifting bike - it's not fun to ride a bike that is a PIA to shift - you ride the bike to have fun - right - make it fun bro - you can see the setup of my 81 in the pics below -
reading through this post it sounds like your leak is in the clutch hub nut pushrod seal area - spanner is right - empty the trans and put in 24 oz of either cjeap Dino V-tin trans oil or just use 20W-50 or 50W as a temprorary check on the leak - if you are a bit over-filled oil will find its way out that sketchy weak link in the sealing system - I should say one of the weak links - the clutch hub nut should take two seals and that is recommnded - you could also try replacing the push rod as spanner said - sometimes the rods are tapered and dont deal at all - if your leak was behind the bearing support it would be the small 25mm mainshaft seal or the maingear seal that fits in the case - as for the shifting problem - I've built a few bikes with rotary top trannies - handshifters and standards - the stock lever link is fine - just fix your drag link rod - get a cheap two bottle mini torch kit at Menards and bend that rod to clear the mid-peg mounts - or buy 5/16 rod and make a rod - buy a couple taps and thread the rod - when I run mids off the case I run them hi - jockey squat style so this does not happen - that trans lever is close to the belt so its tough to space it - but it would take like 30 total minutes to fix that link rod and then you'll have a good shifting bike - it's not fun to ride a bike that is a PIA to shift - you ride the bike to have fun - right - make it fun bro - you can see the setup of my 81 in the pics below -
The leak is at the shaft, not at the bearing support. I can see it weeping around the rod. It's odd that the shaft nut seal doesnt stop it even after I replaced it.
I have the parts to ditch the little zerk fitting linkage which would allow me to clear the peg mount.
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