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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 11:44 AM
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Default Cone Motor Cam

Curious about throwing a cam in. I've gone through the cam chest already on my 84 - so I know what to prepare for. Any pros and cons? Things to look out for? Recommendations? Just looking for a little more oomph. Other than getting the endplay right and lining up the timing marks, are there other things to look out for? I'm assuming the motor would run hotter?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 12:00 PM
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You should check the valve springs to see if there is enough room for even slightly more increased lift.

An Andrews A2 cam woke my bike up in the mid to upper range without hurting low end or idle.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe12RK
You should check the valve springs to see if there is enough room for even slightly more increased lift.

An Andrews A2 cam woke my bike up in the mid to upper range without hurting low end or idle.
The motor is stock and I bought it with under 9k original miles. I'm assuming I can just plug one in and be good?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 01:59 PM
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Look for a cam that says it's bolt in (no modifications required) and produces power across a wide RPM range. To get the benefit of a cam upgrade, you will need better carb and exhaust that is well suited for the cam you select.

Read the instructions from the cam manufacturer, for the cam you purchase. With the shovel engines, the amount of lift you can run without modifications to the engine for coil bind and valve to piston clearance is very limited when conpared to EVO's twin cams or M8's

Paul
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
Look for a cam that says it's bolt in (no modifications required) and produces power across a wide RPM range. To get the benefit of a cam upgrade, you will need better carb and exhaust that is well suited for the cam you select.

Read the instructions from the cam manufacturer, for the cam you purchase. With the shovel engines, the amount of lift you can run without modifications to the engine for coil bind and valve to piston clearance is very limited when conpared to EVO's twin cams or M8's

Paul
I'm running a stock 80" 1984. Super E carb, custom upsweep fishtails.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 02:45 PM
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Ok what happens when you dont check things - sometimes nothing

stock cam lift is 412 usually - the A2 is the best of the bunch for all around riding but its 450 lift and what happens is the travel its called the valve moving open

from the bottom of the top retainer to the top of the valve stem seal - when its too close because the room is less the .050 and more like .030 the volume of standing oil on top of the valve guide seal is pumped into the valve guide

you did not say you were re doing the heads so its not the cam that is making it smoke its not doing the job correctly
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HellaGNARLY
The motor is stock and I bought it with under 9k original miles. I'm assuming I can just plug one in and be good?
No, don't assume anything. Some years had less room between the seal and retainer than others. Those heads will give you trouble with aftermarket cams.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2024 | 12:30 PM
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The A2 should be bolt in to your 84 heads.. Read the note at the bottom of Andrew's cam spec sheet list.. It's always good to measure though..
A2 is a very good cam for the Shovelhead...

The 2 cam is one of the best for stock configuration but will need head work.. I ran one in my 77 and loved it.. 68/72 hp/tq .

 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 16, 2024 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Nov 16, 2024 | 07:11 AM
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For that broad power spread you might consider the S&S 450s cam. Often overlooked for more popular cams. My setup uses the super E carb, 84” S&S balanced assembly and that cam. Call S&S, I can confirm it requires no mods to the valve train, bolt in goodness. It pulls hard from off idle to 4500 rpm. Shifting at 3000-3500 rpm is riding a wave of effortless torque.
 
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