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I have a 1983 FXDG. \\; It is a twin belt. \\; I tore my primary belt a month back and had it replaced at the local Harley Dealership. \\; Rode the bike for about 150-200 miles and tore it again. \\; Not sure what the problem is but I could really do without getting stranded all of the time. \\; The belt is also over $100 so I could do without the expense. \\; Does anybody here have any ideas as to why or what I could do to solve the problem? \\; If my wife gets stranded again I don't know if I will be able to get her back on the bike.
Thanks in advanced.
Also, Do you think any Harley warrenty would cover the belt? Maybe labor?
Sounds like an alignment problem. Over the years the ol shovel can shake around in the frame. You would have to take the time to loosen up the inner primary, engine and trans and realign everything. You can shift the motor and trans up to a 1/4 inch in any direction. Follow your shop manual for these proceedures.
Make sure you have the right primary cover screws. If I remember right the lower front primary cover screw is shorter than the rest so it doesn't hit the belt. The mounting hole has a slot ground in it to clear the belt, hence the shorter screw.
Last edited by FilthyLucre; Aug 6, 2008 at 10:28 PM.
go with a chain but if like someone else said you have an allignment issue, to long a screw or maybe something bent so slightly you can't see it I don't know.
Did that come stock as a twin belt? I have an '83 FLHS secondary belt only.
If the dealer "fixed" it and it broke I would have a talk with the manager and/or owner it shouldn't break in 150-200 miles. Being stranded sux
The twin belt set up wasn't reliable that's why Harley only offered it for a couple of years. Problem converting it to chain is the belt primary is not air tight and doesn't have the fittings for a chain oiler or return.
The twin belt set up wasn't reliable that's why Harley only offered it for a couple of years. Problem converting it to chain is the belt primary is not air tight and doesn't have the fittings for a chain oiler or return.
Unless you're sold on keeping the stock parts, check out Karata. Much better quality in the long run. If you choose to go chain, the lack of an oiling system is actually an advantage. Best to separate the primary from the engine oil on any of the older sealed primaries. Just run some ATF in it. Level should be no higher than the bottom of the plates when the bike is on the kick stand.
Unless you're sold on keeping the stock parts, check out Karata. Much better quality in the long run. If you choose to go chain, the lack of an oiling system is actually an advantage. Best to separate the primary from the engine oil on any of the older sealed primaries. Just run some ATF in it. Level should be no higher than the bottom of the plates when the bike is on the kick stand.
If its not air tight it's not oil tight either. These primaries were designed to move to allow the adjustment of the belt. The mounting hloles are ovals, has an adjustment hole, and the alternator area is machined out to allow movement. To run an oil return primary or a wet primary you would have to change the original parts. Probably not acceptable if you want to keep it original.
If its not air tight it's not oil tight either. These primaries were designed to move to allow the adjustment of the belt. The mounting hloles are ovals, has an adjustment hole, and the alternator area is machined out to allow movement. To run an oil return primary or a wet primary you would have to change the original parts. Probably not acceptable if you want to keep it original.
LOL, forgot we were talking about HDs "bastid step-child" primary belt drive!
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