I miss spoke when I said “starter shaft” and I shim it, I should have said I got a new one, a thrust washer on the starter shaft (pinion shaft collar) into the bearing into the outer primary cover, there is only one of these I replaced it, not shim it’s my fault.

I am looking at the shop manual and view in the parts book where are these shims located ?

I only see two thrust washers, one in front of the drive gear and one on the pinion shaft collar the one I replaced.

Sorry I am not getting this…..
waiting for this guy to show up with the load tester.

cj

 

Ok the solenoid is out here is what I got.
solenoid plunger readings both pushing in and letting it go

Battery lug to starter lug (not pushing in) 0.L
Battery lug to starter lug (pushing in) .3 ohms

**
Starter lug to relay small terminal (not pushing in) .5 ohms
Starter lug to relay small terminal (pushing in) .5 ohms

**
Battery lug to relay small terminal (not pushing in) .0L
Battery lug to relay small terminal (pushing in) .5 ohms


Well the guy didn’t come yet for the battery load test, screw it, been having problems with this battery since june of ’08 so I had someone call a friend of theirs who is good friends with a guy in a battery distributorship, not so much for a price break but just to get one ASAP, no way I am 2nd or 3 day air shipment for the weight of a battery and having only 8 days left to go, I don't think I will find one on a shelf somewhere.


Btw tom, I only mention I used a fluke meter for one reason, I had this happen to me before, I am asking about this reading not saying what brand of equipment I am using and sure enough someone shoots back with “what kind of meter your using, did it come from harbor freight “ ? not that fluke couldn’t have a fault it’s just maybe saving a step, that’s all.


Why does it always come down to the last minute with stuff when going away ?? : - )))

Oh that’s right, I ride an old Harley silly me : - ))))

cj

 

What I am talking about is not in any shop manual. It is the kind of stuff you have to do when you are running a baker trans, with a cal inner primary, a Rivera pro clutch and an all ***** starter...it ain't quite Harley any more. You need to measure your thrust washer at point A and make sure the bendix is not rubbing at point B. Easy to do with a straight edge and the depth gauge. I have to run 2 thick thrust washers on mine to keep it from binding.

 

I know it’s not much of a Harley any longer, but the harley parts, starter shaft, gear housing and clutch basket are what I have when the Cal Products inter - primary and pro clutch went in w/a hd OEM starter it worked with that starter until the All ***** went in ’07, along with a new bendix drive.

I just got back from having the battery load tested by two units both show the battery good, but one of the units would not go down to the battery’s CCA rating of 200 one did, the battery did what Odyssey is famous for come back after a draw, starting off at 12.92 after 2 load tests after 10 mins rest it was back up to 12.88, I also heard stories as this guy that just because a battery load tests good, that doesn’t mean it to be when these batteries were re[placed the device worked.

Tom, I am not saying you don’t know what your talking about believe this, this guy gave me a large 12 v new battery to try the cranking, but I want to get All ***** to re-drill my drive end of the new starter I still want to try the new one, I want to see if the new one draws as much as the old one, it does sound like a lot of AMPs

One way or another it will get fix, it just comes down to am I going to make it to Lake George this year on my bike : - )))

When all this fails I will pull the primary cover off and see, but it was working up to 3 years to think that things can just go of wack is where I am right now, but that dose nothing for real life : - )))

Thanks for the pic it will come in handy for sure !!!

Hey what dim. am I looking for or not looking for between A & B ?

Edit: sorry I read it again forget about the dim. : - )))

cj

 

Just an update, I sent the all-***** starter “drive-cap” back to them to add those extra mounting holes on the end cap that bolts up to the drive gear housing just like my first All ***** starter had to have them, for what reason I still don’t know why the extra holes ?

Do I have the only FX that needs those extra holes drilled ?

Anyway the way it’s been going the last few weeks, it got worst the cap came I compared it to my first drive cap they only drilled two holes my original one had 4 extra holes (two on each side), so I took the two allen bolts out of the drive cap on the bike, put in the new one, sure as hell the starter wouldn’t line up with the gear hole in the cap, even gentle rubber hammer taps on the starter didn’t work, hitting the tranny.

The way to explain how the starter was not in the same place as the first one is this, out of the starter housing comes a cable that is only approx 1 inch long with a terminal on to the starter lug, were it gets feed from the solenoid, when look at it from the end of the starter (right side) under the battery, that solenoid cable post was right at 12 oclock position on the old set-up, with the new holes in the cap only two of them I had to use those two, it made that terminal line up at just about 1 oclock, that little bit made the starter not line up right as the first one.

You guess it, must go back to All ***** to have the two more holes added, I have to use the new drive cap with the new starter, old starter can’t be use with the new cap the new cap they added two notches to the design and one on the starter body itself, each must use the cap end that was design for them.

That is where it is now…..

Anything new I will post it.

the pic shows the needed two more holes, please disreguard the "two" red circles (6:00) should be one can't erase one of them : - )))


cj

 

Megawatt,

Didn’t you tell me you put an All-***** starter in ?
and don’t you ride an FX ?

Did you have any problems installing the starter as having
the drive cap re-drilled ?

How did you make out ?

cj

 

Hey cj,
Yes, I bought one after you had yours installed and working. Odyssey battery too.
My bike used to be a 1979 FXS.
Not much of the original bike left.
I did not have my starter modified, I removed metal from the tranny case until it fit.
I'm use a 6 into 4 Baker like you.
The Shovel engine was long gone before I bought the bike.
I replaced the Evo that was in it with an S&S Evo with 10:1 compression.
The All ***** starter has a hard time getting past the first compression stroke but cranks great after that.
At least, it used to...I haven't started it/ridden for several months because of the carpal tunnel crap.
Around three months ago I tried to start the bike but the battery went low after a couple of slow cranks and I had to pull the ground wire real quick to get it to stop.
I had the battery on the fancy Odyssey charger trickle charging.
After the bad start fiasco I put it back on the charger and it went to town for maybe three hours before it went back to trickle charging.
The next day I tried to start it again and it fired up like it used to with the one slow crank to get past that first compression stroke.

 

“Yes, I bought one after you had your installed and working. Odyssey battery too.
My bike used to be a 1979 FXS.
Not much of the original bike left.
I did not have my starter modified, I removed metal from the tranny case until it fit.
I'm use a 6 into 4 Baker like you.”


This is what I don’t get as I mention, in ’02 I put in a Pro clutch finding a hair-line crack in the OEM primary I got a Cal Products inter-primary weights 3 lbs more than the OEM great case, when I put it back together that year back in went the HD OEM Hitachi-type starter the same one that came with the bike so no problem with the inter-primary, when the motor got change out in ’07 I went with the all-***** starter I ordered the model for my year when it came I needed to get those holes put in I still don’t know why most likely it was because of the Baker ? here attach is the label of the A-B box I got in ‘07


“The Shovel engine was long gone before I bought the bike.
I replaced the Evo that was in it with an S&S Evo with 10:1 compression.
The All ***** starter has a hard time getting past the first compression stroke but cranks great after that.
At least, it used to...I haven't started it/ridden for several months because of the carpal tunnel crap.
Around three months ago I tried to start the bike but the battery went low after a couple of slow cranks and I had to pull the ground wire real quick to get it to stop.
I had the battery on the fancy Odyssey charger trickle charging.
After the bad start fiasco I put it back on the charger and it went to town for maybe three hours before it went back to trickle charging.
The next day I tried to start it again and it fired up like it used to with the one slow crank to get past that first compression stroke.”


Nice compression nice engine I think it’s one of the best design HD engines ever made !!! but you couldn't tell me that when they first come out : - ))

Damn yours slow cranking is the same as I was getting the solenoid was pulled in and heating up big time meaning the POS cable must to taken off.
I was impress how the Odyssey came back after 2 / 3 full-load battery tests last week without charging the battery came back to 12.83, but when I tried 3- 5 seconds crank starter tests total of 15 seconds of cranking the battery it was down to 12.15 V kick the crap out of it no-doubt !

BTW- on the Odyssey battery charger I found out real fast just hooking up the cables and plugging the cord in doesn’t mean its going auto in charge you have to push the other button in to charge none of my other charge did that I remember I wait for it to start charging on it’s own, that never happen, so off the subject.

Thanks for the update on your bike and I hope your back on it soon !!!
Good luck and heal up fast, Megawatt

cj

 

Sorry could not add my attachement had to make a new one

cj

 

cj,
Yep. I just checked my receipt, that's the same one I bought.
I had to remove a fair amount of metal to get mine to fit.
I had to stop cutting several times to bolt it up and check for clearance between the starter and trans case.
I have one of those low quality inner primary cases that Jireh sells.
One of these days I'll get one of the Cal-Products cases from Rivera...I think Drag Specialties sells them.
The case I have was Taiwan made I believe, and I had to make 8 or 9 modifications to it for it to fit and function properly for me.
I expect I'll have to modify the hell out of the Cal-Products case too but the strength will give me some peace of mind.
I like the stroker/big bore engine but it buzzes pretty good at certain rpm.
Had I given it more thought, I probably would have saved for the engine you bought and had just as much fun with less vibration.
The Doc tells me vibration may have been a contributing factor to my present situation.
You take care of yourself as well and I hope you get this starter sorted out and put this grief behind you.