Sounds like you made a good decision. Cams are going to wake up the bike. And the black parts are really going to change the look of the bike. Know you have to wait.

 

Good luck hope everything turns out to your satisfaction. kinda sucks on buying both tuners but things like that happen to all of us at one time or another. only thing that will limit realizing the full benefit of the cam upgrade is the factory tall gearing. but it should still pull a bit harder with the new cams after being properly tuned on both fuel -and- spark advance. Bike will definitely sound a lot meaner on the exhaust note, for sure

You are lucky you have a 2016 because they now come with the larger 50mm TB and larger injectors. Anyone with a 2015 BO and earlier is limited by the 46mm TB's small injectors, so that is always an added expense upgrading them to larger ones like you have now.

I'm in disagreement on re-using the stock pushrods with new rockers, cam and thinner head gasket. With your thinner head gasket, the heads will be sitting .015 lower. I don't know if that is enough to make the stock pushrods too tight but it bears checking. New adjustable pushrods are not an expensive item and will allow for perfect lash adjustment post install. if pushrods are slightly too tight it can prevent the valves from fully seating closed. that is all kinds of not good. Just double check that with your shop and have them explain why using the stock pushrods are ok- if they can demonstrate that it will be ok with confidence, then cool.

 

Sweet ride. Looks like you are having fun. I know I had a blast tearing mine apart.

 

I've read through your write up about doing the pulley swaps to improve the gearing and might be doing that in the future also. Gotta get through this first. As far as the stock pushrods being re used. I researched it and found out that it is perfectly fine to use them with the Andrews 57h cams AND the .030 head gasket. The cam base circle on the Andrews 57h is smaller than the factory cam. Adding all the numbers up with everything installed puts it at a .005 difference. Not enough to add in adjustable pushrods. But hey, if it does end up noisey or more than it really should be then I can always add adjustables later. I'm sure my Indy will double check that before he turns it over to me. He keeps s&s adjustables in stock so if needed can install in place of factory pushrods. But I doubt there will be an issue. Thanks for looking out for me man. I appreciate it.

Thanks man! I've seen your breakout build. Very well done and slick looking bike.

 

sure good luck on wrapping it all up- you have a great baseline start with mods, from here you will be able to do things that only add to the fun factor- e.g gearing etc.

When you measured did you also take into consideration the new S&S rockers and their affect on pushrod length? I'm glad you are doing your homework on it anyway- you are doing some expensive and nice upgrades so IMO it would be to your benefit to make sure everything is to spec. You wouldn't hear any rattling if the stock pushrods were off in this case because it could only end up holding the valves slightly open. that's not something you can hear, but you'll notice things like hard to start bike, reduced power and eventually burned valves. probably some odd tapping sound too. but that is 'worst case'.

HD's lifters are self adjusting to some degree and have about .200 of lifter travel. adjusted pushrod preload on lifter should be about .100. So if you're only at a .005 difference then you should be fine. just triple check.

good resource on how to determine pushrod length- scroll down to section on "'pushrod length with hydraulic lifters'", two methods of measurement are discussed. http://www.1250kits.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml

 

Ok. So just a little update. I was talking to my buddy at work (he rides a '14 street glide) these past few weeks about my bike going in for some work. Well I guess it got him all excited to get more power out of his bike. Not wanting me to get to close to him in races I think. Anyways long story short. He his taking his bike in to do a big bore build. Now he has ported and polished heads with bigger valves and springs, forged pistons and a set of dragos 580 cams. He his selling me his stuff to put into my bike as he cant use it for the build he is doing. All set up by frank dragos recommendations but put together and tuned by the same guy I'm taking mine too. And this thing runs good. Showed me his dyno and he is putting down 113 hp & 115 tq. He is running a 2-1 exhaust so I might lose a little with my 2-2 but for $800 I think it's a good deal. Hell the head work and valve job would be at least that much. Giving me a deal to help fund his new build. It's a win-win situation as I see it. So my Andrews 57h cams will be going up for sale. Oh how things can change. Can't wait to let this think rip after this upgrade.

 

That's pretty cool- I would jump all over it. you can make those dyno numbers better on the TQ side with a bit of investigation on optimizing things- I'd expect the TQ to always be about 10 higher than given HP for a proper performance build. So it could be cam related or something. if you lost any TQ with your pipes you'd have less TQ than HP and that would be odd. but definitely get those parts / don't see how you can go wrong..

make sure parts are taken off and labeled properly for location so they go back together exactly the same, rockers, bolts, pistons, bearings, pushrods, lifters, etc etc.

I might want to buy your 57H cams.

hey just a thought too- if you want to pick up some added HP you can send out your TB to have it bored to 54 or 55mm. service is $125 total including return ship. those heads flow well so give them some air! And you'll have the TB off anyway so...

www.maxbore.com - guys name is George. i was just emailing with him yesterday about boring my 46mm TB to 51mm. He hand makes a new butterfly, blends the bore back into the plenum, etc. - that is a great price because most other places charge $200+.

a bit more info on the 580 cams. they seem to be a very solid cam and a lot of folks run them with 103, 107 and 110 motors. what I have seen for "normal" dyno results is about 104hp/117tq but a lot of the guys run them with normal stock compression.

This cam will probably give you best hp/tq with static compression of 10.5:1 - so see if you can hit that by adjusting the gasket thickness or minor head decking. I would call Dragos and talk to Frank, I am quite sure he will take the time to talk to you a bit so it goes back together optimally. Also find out if you have the stage1 or stage2 heads since the stage2 has much nicer, larger intake / exhaust valves.

the 580 brings in TQ strong (100+tq) from 2350 rpm and up (specs say 2400 though). that is a bit higher than the 57h at 2200rpm. Given that, I would make sure I am running at the highest end of optimal static compression with the 580- which I believe is 10.5:1.

580 cam specs:

580 bolt in cam
For guys wanting a bolt in cam that can go from mild to wild
2400/6000
20 / 42 - 578 lift 243 dur @.050
44 / 18 - 568 lift 243 dur @.050
100 centerline
104 centerline

 

Hey what temp did you set the warning for the cylinder temp on this unit? They look great and just fitting mine now just not sure what the cyl temp warning should be, don't want to set it too low and have it flashing that's all

 

Not sure what stage heads these are but everything was set according to frank dragos recommendations including the valve size by the same tuner/builder that I am going to. He will be checking my measurements and set compression to 10.5:1. Only difference will be that I have a 2 into 2 exhaust. But that might be changing to a nice bassani road rage (2 into 1) set up now to. Kinda want to optimize my chance at grabbing as much power as I can with this upgrade. I thought about going to a bigger throttle body but that and injectors can get expensive. But my builder said that he can take my stock 50mm and clean it up to make it flow better for a lot less. So I'm doing that instead. He didn't mention what size it would be but has done it many times before and I trust he knows what he is doing. If all goes through I'll have a nice little package to sell somebody. A PV2 tuner, cams and exhaust lol. This thing is going to be a blast to ride after all is said and done. Might have to do the gearing upgrade like you l.a. dog when I get it back. That way my friend won't know what hit him when I drag his a$$ with a less powerful bike.

I want to say I set mine at 310* F. You can always go back into the settings to adjust them if you need to or find you set it to low. But then again, if it keeps warning you that it's getting to hot you might want to look into what is causing it. Either way, you're going to love that gauge.

 

Cool sounds like it's going to get set up right. I think you'll find that your TQ is about 10 higher than whatever HP it's putting down. Something would have to be wrong to have the TQ be only a few higher than HP. the road rage is a nice pipe- you'll lose some of that nice 2-2 pipe sound but the trade of is some increased tq low to mid.

You don't need injectors since yours on the 2016 are already the larger 4.9's- so that's good at least. the gearing upgrade at some point is a "must do" especially with the parts you are putting on. mainly because all newer bikes are geared way too tall to meet epa stuff and over-maximize economy. the gearing upgrade gets rid of all that handicapping. look at it like this - jump on a 10 speed bike, put the bike in 5th gear and try your hardest to pedal off from a stop. now try the same thing with bike in 3rd gear. Your legs have the same hp/tq, but the shorter ratio of 3rd gear allows you to take off and accelerate much faster for the same power input.

An added benefit is that the gearing change pushes the engine rpms slightly higher for a given mph- and that is going to be more optimal to meet the 580 cam's slightly higher peak TQ rpm - e.g. you'll get into the sweet spot of the cam faster and the benefit of having the cam is increased with proper gearing. If you talk to Drago, Woods, etc they'll all concur that correct overall drive ratio is one of the most important aspects of performance. Matter of fact, if you talk to Bob Woods and ask him for cam advice, one of his first questions will be "what's your overall drive ratio".

Without the gearing upgrade you'd be leaving a lot of acceleration speed on the table- think of the 10 speed bike example. If our bikes were not geared way too tall to begin with, there would not be as much benefit- all of the 2006 and earlier bikes (pre-EPA BS) were already geared quite optimally. Anyway if you do end up doing it I swear you will crap a gold bar from the improvement in speed. Even with 2-2 pipes. Kid you not. Good luck and hope everything goes together smoothly.