Tried Electrical section with no luck
The regulator was in line when I checked the load, i thought it needed to be. How many milliamps (mA) is it drawing? It should be no more then 6 mA which is the ECM (1), speedometer (1), tac,TSSM (1),HFSM (1) and voltage regulator (1) Yes, it was disconnected when doing all the other stator test.
I've done clutches on Shovels and Evos but not a TC. I have a 1/2" impact but not 3/4". I have a primary locking tool (if you're referring to the stair step wedge that goes between the chain & sprocket). I'll check the compensator condition and clean or may upgrade it, depending.
I do most of my own work, but I had an offer from my son, to take it to one of the best Indy Harley mechanic and machinist in the area, to do it (free). So I'll sort that out.
I'll read through the disassembly and assembly a few times before I put her on the lift or decide to take him up on the offer.
Thanks for the information and quick replies.
I've done clutches on Shovels and Evos but not a TC. I have a 1/2" impact but not 3/4". I have a primary locking tool (if you're referring to the stair step wedge that goes between the chain & sprocket). I'll check the compensator condition and clean or may upgrade it, depending.
I do most of my own work, but I had an offer from my son, to take it to one of the best Indy Harley mechanic and machinist in the area, to do it (free). So I'll sort that out.
I'll read through the disassembly and assembly a few times before I put her on the lift or decide to take him up on the offer.
Thanks for the information and quick replies.
Last edited by TSheff; Nov 16, 2015 at 07:52 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 399
Likes: 25
From: Northern Alberta
Tsheff, that primary step locking tool is for the pre 07's, it may bust your case. If you update the comp it'll have to be with the newer SE unit which uses a different rotor than what is in yours, providing it hasnt been updated already, check with sonny. Them 07 comps were a little weak so something more to consider.
Tsheff, that primary step locking tool is for the pre 07's, it may bust your case. If you update the comp it'll have to be with the newer SE unit which uses a different rotor than what is in yours, providing it hasnt been updated already, check with sonny. Them 07 comps were a little weak so something more to consider.
Then there's the tripp to Disney with little ones, Christmas, tax time, etc.
It may be a couple of months, but I do have other options.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,588
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
You are correct at the m/A in line load with key off. Remember, with an alarm, It takes about 30 seconds from keying on and off for the alarm to trim down. So let it set when doing the key off. That fools a lot of people when they attach a battery connection since you can see the spark and hear it as you attach. If all is well, it probably should drop to 5m/A and a bike with no alarm to 2.5. Carb with no alarm will go to 1.5. The really new bikes even with alarm are less then 5 now. If it's 11m/A, it could be a bad ignition switch, alarm or the stator exc.. So you need to isolate. You really do not want to condemn the stator unless it's bad.
I have done some troubleshooting and it appears the stator is grounded - may have a short. I'm going to inspect it all, clean it, and go from there. If I find an issue well that's good. If I don't see anything obvious, I'll reassemble and retest.
I'm not at a point where I can't drop the money to replace parts right now. It's not that hard of a job and I have time on my hands.
I'm not at a point where I can't drop the money to replace parts right now. It's not that hard of a job and I have time on my hands.
Last edited by TSheff; Nov 21, 2015 at 08:47 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 399
Likes: 25
From: Northern Alberta
I don't blame you for not wanting to buy parts that might not be needed. Good luck anyway, I find the Heritage to be a nice scoot.
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Thank You everyone who gave info and lead me through new territory.
After the troubleshooting everything pointed toward a BAD STATOR.
I changed the Stator and Rotor even though the rotor was probably perfectly good. Final results, with the new Stator, Rotor, and Voltage regulator I purchased first I am now getting 14.3V DC at idle and 14.5V DC at higher Rpms with no engine light or panel lights going out.
Thanks again, when the weather clears I'll give her the real test.
Note the crap/melted on the windings @ 3:00 after it was cleaned.
Last edited by TSheff; Nov 27, 2015 at 03:58 PM.
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