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Thanks for the info, i i li to throw a problem out there before i jump into it, usually someone has dealt with it and makes things alot easier, not to mention i didnt know there was a hydraulic switch, im at work atm, but when i get home im gonna take seat off and see what i can find, i ordered 1 new switch, figure it takes 2-3 days to get it, and if i dont need it ill have it, $11.66 on dennis kirk. Again i ippreciate your input, and ill let ya know what i find out...
Go figure, oh well, in the HD catalog i believe they were around $38, so that was best price i found, and i i know better than that, guess i was in a rush to get one shipped out, didnt look around enuough. Lol
Go figure, oh well, in the HD catalog i believe they were around $38, so that was best price i found, and i i know better than that, guess i was in a rush to get one shipped out, didnt look around enuough. Lol
Last one I bought was for a VW Beetle. I think it cost $14.oo Your switch will be on the right side down by the trans. Turn on the ignition, unplug one wire on the switch and touch it to the other. If the brake light comes on then the switch is bad.
Ok, so i must be goin crazy, but i already knew that, i swear that only 1 of the 2 filaments was lit, well i took seat off to check wiring and the connections, and seem to all be good, there are 2 red conductors, 1 i issume is the front brake lever, and other rear brake lever, there is an orange which i assume is 12vdc, i i dconnected both wires from the rear switch, and both filaments in taillight were still lit, i tested each wire across ground and both were 12vdc, i ran continuity across rear switch and did not ring, so switch isnt shorted, i ian continuity across the red and orange conductor and got reading, thats as far as i got, seems somethin isnt jivin, but truth is, its 10pm, i gotta be up at 4am and have the company of a female so tomorrow is another day, lol
If both filiments are lit and youre getting 12 on both sides of the rear master cylinder switch the front switch is bad.
Its a NC switch and is kept off by the lever when the levers not engaged.
Last edited by RANGER73; Jun 12, 2018 at 01:44 PM.
The Orange wire is power 12+ to both of the brake light switches. The Red wire brings power from the switches to the brake light. As Ranger stated, the front brake light switch is normally Closed. When the brake lever is released it causes the switch to open. The rear switch is hydraulic and normally open. It closes when you step on the rear brake pedal which causes hydraulic pressure to close the switch. Use this link to view the wiring diagram for your bike. It should be on page 153 of 276 pages. https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....1992+wiring%22
Thats what i i figured, and my next step was to seperate the front and rear switch legs, and see what i got, the schematic is big help too, all i i ne is is scheic or print
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