I need to remove the tank on my '07 Softail Deluxe to route so wiring for a fairing radio. The problem child is the one at the back of the tank/under front of seat. It is a T-40. I don't know who the hell put this bolt in or how, but it's so tight the torx stripped out.. I have tried everything, eventually went to the EZ-out method but the damn thing is so tight my ez-out actually couldn't get a good bite and rounded off.. Granted they were cheap ez-outs but I had no idea the bolt would be that hard of steel or that damn tight.. :/

Any ideas?

 

I have the same problem on my 08 Heritage and would like to do a tank lift. I will be watching this thread for any helpful hints!

 

I've had my softail tanks off several times....

If you are not aware, that T-40 bolt/washer (#3,6) is secured by a Tee nut, and two grommets (#9, 29, 28), that are press fit (hand tight) into the backbone of the frame. the tee nut/grommets can be easily pushed down, into the backbone, and then removed from the backbone. New ones, or the old one (I had one fall into the backbone once), can be easily pressed back into the back bone by hand. It will not however pull upward out of the backbone hole... you will need to remove the bolt, or the head of the bolt, to remove the tank and gain access to the backbone & tee nut/grommets...

If you need to, just cut the head off that bolt with a dremel/cutting wheel, you may be able to remove the rest of the bolt from the tee nut once the tank is off. Worse case scenario, you could replace all the parts (#3,6,9,29,28) from a dealer for like $12....





In fact, I just put the tank back on my '03 Heritage two days ago or I'd take a pic for you to see. I accidentally pushed on the grommets/tee nut when my tank was off.... they popped out of the hole and bounced out of the rear of the back bone onto the floor somewhere... I got tired of looking for them, they will appear within a few days I'm sure. I went to the dealer and got #9,29,28 for less than $10 bucks...

 

Good to know. Was I wrong in just taking the T40 to it? Was there a secret procedure I was supposed to follow to remove it? lol! Going down the road to buy a set of "real" extractors instead of the cheap chinese crap I had.. Maybe they will get a good enough bite on it and not round off.. I ignored the #1 rule my Dad taught me as a kid.. "son, when it comes to tools, you get what you pay for". Sorry Dad

I appreciate the info AND that diagram!

 

Not at all, the T-40 should have taken it off.... I always re-torque it to spec, with no lock-tite. It takes a good twist to break it loose, but I've never had a problem. Gotta wonder if someone stripped yours, used red lock-tite, or maybe corrosion over the years took it's toll...

The tee nut is wider than the hole in the backbone so it can't be pulled up through the back bone hole. It's too wide to spin 360° in the back bone... the grommets keep it centered and are cushion between the tank tab and the frame..

 

A burring tool may be your best bet, if you can't drill down into the bolt and get a good bite on it with an EZout, and you can't get a grip on what's left of the head with a pair of visegrips. A dremel with a burring bit would be how I would do it in that case, in order to have the most control over the travel of the bit. Take your time and remove a little at a time. Best to do it outside because you're going to have plenty of sparks. Might be a good idea too if you make sure that you keep the sparks from your getting close to your vent tube and gas cap. Wet towels. Outside in the shade, and if necessary set up a fan to keep any fumes from the vicinity of your sparks.

 

I got a good set of bolt extractors from the local auto shop. Was able to tap it in with the hammer and get a bite, the bolt was TIGHT, the ex-out was twisting and looked like it was about to snap.. then the bolt popped loose.. but then the nut inside the tube started spinning too.. I took a screwdriver and wedged between the tub wall and the nut and was able to get the bolt out..


Then I had to deal with the pain in the *** cross tube fuel line.. The clamps are a real pain.. finally just cut the hose. Thinkin of using a quick disconnect in the middle of that when I put it back together.. Any thoughts on that?

 

HD sells a fancy hose kit for that cross over. I just went to the auto part store and spent some change on a new one and got new clamps from HD. They're a pain, but I don't get at them often.
https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...-04-6369200--1

 

That's a good pic.... never had the tee nut spin 360°, I thought it was too wide, apparently it's not... that had to be one TIGHT bolt....!!! Any signs of corrosion or lock-tite...?


For the cross over, I have two small fuel line clamps. I put them on the hose, each side, real close to each nipple end (without damaging the nipple end). I put a rag on thr rocker box, and cut the hose, between the clamps.... about 1/2 ounce of fuel drips out (that is if the clamps are tight).... Then I drain the tank by sliding a slightly larger hose over the fuel crossover. That 2nd hose goes to a gas can.. I release the clamp and let it drain. One side, then the other.... the fuel hose and clamps are cheap...

I tried once to put on a hose with a fuel disconnect. The disconnect was too bulky and it was hard to add enough hose due to the angle of the hose nipples.... I just decided it was easier to replace that small section of hose each time.....

On my carb softail it's super easy..... I take the hose off the carb, to a gas can, and turn on the tank petcock to drain the tank before removing one end of the crossover hose....