Forward Controls
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,472
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: Forward Controls
Reason I asked is I needed more leg room on my FLST. But I like the boards 'cause they allow you to move your feet around some. So I extended my floor boards, and modified the brake pedal. Here's what I did, in case you or anyone else is interested:
Grind or cut the mounting brackets off the bottom of your existing floorboards. Bolt, braze, or weld the front one back on, but in the middle of the board. Stick the floor boards back onto the front mount on the bike and you'll gain about 4 inches of leg room. If you have crash bars you'll have to check the clearance and possibly modify to make 'em fit.
At first, I added a foot peg to the now empty rear mount on the bike just to give me another place to flop me brogans. But I kept grinding the ends off on turns, so I took 'em off and removed the mounts from the brackets/frame/primary.
Once you install the modified boards you'll have a problem with the brake pedal stabbing you in the side of your foot. You can buy one of the extended brake pedals or modify your existing one. I heated the foot pedal part of the lever and straightened it. Next I got a piece of angle iron and bolted it to the end of the straightened brake lever. I then cut a notch out of the lever about 2 inches from the pivot, bent it back together, and welded it so the pedal part was at the level I wanted. I bead blasted (80 grit paper would work fine, too), then painted the whole thing wrinkle black. I mounted the rubber part of the foot pedal longways on the angle iron so it wouldn't extend too far out over the footboard. It works fine, looks great, and there ain't another one like it anywhere.
Since you have the heel & toe shifter you'll find it works great with the boards moved forward. The rear shift peg sits behind the board and you just step down with your heel to upshift. I raised the forward arm up a notch to allow my size 12s to slide under a bit better. Downshifting is done as usual.
I usually run a rocker clutch and hand shift on the my FLST. The modified floorboards work fine with it, too.
Grind or cut the mounting brackets off the bottom of your existing floorboards. Bolt, braze, or weld the front one back on, but in the middle of the board. Stick the floor boards back onto the front mount on the bike and you'll gain about 4 inches of leg room. If you have crash bars you'll have to check the clearance and possibly modify to make 'em fit.
At first, I added a foot peg to the now empty rear mount on the bike just to give me another place to flop me brogans. But I kept grinding the ends off on turns, so I took 'em off and removed the mounts from the brackets/frame/primary.
Once you install the modified boards you'll have a problem with the brake pedal stabbing you in the side of your foot. You can buy one of the extended brake pedals or modify your existing one. I heated the foot pedal part of the lever and straightened it. Next I got a piece of angle iron and bolted it to the end of the straightened brake lever. I then cut a notch out of the lever about 2 inches from the pivot, bent it back together, and welded it so the pedal part was at the level I wanted. I bead blasted (80 grit paper would work fine, too), then painted the whole thing wrinkle black. I mounted the rubber part of the foot pedal longways on the angle iron so it wouldn't extend too far out over the footboard. It works fine, looks great, and there ain't another one like it anywhere.
Since you have the heel & toe shifter you'll find it works great with the boards moved forward. The rear shift peg sits behind the board and you just step down with your heel to upshift. I raised the forward arm up a notch to allow my size 12s to slide under a bit better. Downshifting is done as usual.
I usually run a rocker clutch and hand shift on the my FLST. The modified floorboards work fine with it, too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
