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Yet another security fob post

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Old May 9, 2023 | 11:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Yet another security fob post

I have searched the forums extensively.

I have replaced both batteries, with CR2032 Duracells

No, there is no film or anything on the batteries.

Yes, the positive side is down.

Now that those basics that are always suggested are out of the way, here's the situation...

'08 FLSTN 105th Anniversary. Passive security fobs, no button to push, just need proximity to bike. Replaced a weak bike battery a month or so ago. Rode to a show a couple weeks back. Rode home without incident. Last week went to ride back down to the Quarter for another show. Bike started, but as I was backing out of the garage it cut off. It didnt sputter, or cough, just shut down as if fuel and/or spark was cut off.

Got the other fob out of the house, figuring that's the problem. No dice. Getting time to head out, so pushed her back in the garage and took the Jeep.

Fast forward a week (quick trip to Costa Rica to get hair yanked out the back of my head and stabbed into the top. Fck going bald!). I have a chance to troubleshoot further, and have fresh batteries in hand. Install (yes, correctly) fresh batteries in both fobs. Turn on ignition, bike in Neutral, lights come on strong, horn works, but fuel pump does not prime when I flip the kill switch to RUN. Red key light flashes a couple times, then comes on solid. Bike does not turn over at all.

Pull the seat, unplug and replug the security antenna module, set both fobs right by it. Try to start again. Same result.

Try to get it into bypass mode. Bike on side stand, bars not moved at all, standing next to bike. Kill switch to off, ignition off. Turn ignition on, immediately hold both turn signals. No security bypass mode. Repeat all, sing the National Anthem to make sure I held them down long enough. No bypass mode.

Also tried another method the Interbutts swore would work. Turn ignition on, off, on, off, on, left signal twice, right signal once. No security mode.

All the while every attempt at anything ends up with a solid red key light.mocking me.

Any suggestions outside of the obvious that I have already eliminated (trying each fob, new batteries in fobs, batteries installed properly, fob held super close to the antenna)?
 

Last edited by MGDavis; May 9, 2023 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Clarity
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Old May 9, 2023 | 07:13 PM
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The solid red key indicates that a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) has been thrown. You need to find the code(s).

Here is how you check for codes. It also provides a list of the codes. Normally, you would clear all the codes and restart the bike to see which codes return. Some of the codes could be historic and not return after starting the bike. Since you cannot start the bike, just make note of the codes.

Post the code(s) here and others, more knowledgeable than me, will respond.

 
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Old May 9, 2023 | 07:41 PM
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I don’t believe this is a FOB issue…. Though experts out there, please feel free to correct me.
 
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Old May 9, 2023 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDavis

Replaced a weak bike battery a month or so ago. Rode to a show a couple weeks back. Rode home without incident. Last week went to ride back down to the Quarter for another show. Bike started, but as I was backing out of the garage it cut off. It didnt sputter, or cough, just shut down as if fuel and/or spark was cut off.

Got the other fob out of the house, figuring that's the problem. No dice.


Any suggestions?
I don't think the FOBs & security, unless your security module totally failed, are your problem...

I'll be corrected if I am wrong, but I believe a FOB is needed to start the bike, but once started, the FOB is not needed to keep the bike running.

You can go for a multi-hour cruise, leave the FOB at home, and the lack of a FOB present won't shut the bike off.

As long as you don't shut the bike off, you won't need the FOB again....

As suggested get the codes and see where that leads....

When a sudden stoppage occurs, and seems to be electrical, I would start with the battery. Then cables & grounds, as well as fuses & any relays.

Once good solid 12v power is confirmed, record any codes, clear the codes, and see which, if any, come right back...

Keep us posted....
 
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Old May 9, 2023 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sanjuro
I don’t believe this is a FOB issue…. Though experts out there, please feel free to correct me.
I'm thinking not the fobs either. Has to be something like the antenna or some other point of failure along the security system. Going to try to find fault codes tomorrow when I have more time. Stupid power outage all afternoon not long after I posted
 
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Old May 9, 2023 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bone Doc
The solid red key indicates that a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) has been thrown. You need to find the code(s).

Here is how you check for codes. It also provides a list of the codes. Normally, you would clear all the codes and restart the bike to see which codes return. Some of the codes could be historic and not return after starting the bike. Since you cannot start the bike, just make note of the codes.

Post the code(s) here and others, more knowledgeable than me, will respond.
Thanks for this! Will get at it again tomorrow. Had a power outage not long after I posted. Love this town, but the infrastructure is rickety as hell.
 
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Old May 10, 2023 | 04:06 AM
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Can remember someone posting in the last 12 months with similar issue that turned out to be the antenna.
Maybe search antenna.
 
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Old May 11, 2023 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Ado
Can remember someone posting in the last 12 months with similar issue that turned out to be the antenna.
Maybe search antenna.
It's a possibility. Unfortunately, life got in the way the last couple days and I'm heading out for almost three weeks tomorrow. Have to get back into it when I get home June 1. I do know it's nothing to do with the bike battery, as it's barely a month old and I hit it with the charger this afternoon to see if topping it off would make a difference. Nope. Didnt expect that it would. Something is keeping the fuel pump from priming like it should when the kill switch goes to run. And it's also cutting the starter switch. Which pretty much has to be the security system, as the odds of a fuel pump and starter both going stone dead at the same time is astronomical. Like bet the farm odds.
 
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