If you are positive the lines have been bled properly and before looking at the ABS or caliper pistons; I would look to a rebuild of the master cylinder as it had been sitting and the rubber components may have degraded not allowing pressure to be built up.

It looks like Harley upgraded the repair kit so there may be something that was causing an issue.


Ref:18
42382-87E
REPAIR KIT MASTER CYLINDER
This part replaces 42382-87C.

Price: $92.85




NOTE (not for the above posters but for certain others who may post here):
The above information, while credible, is worth what you paid for it and should not be considered gospel.
Do due diligence, research and have a H-D Field Service Manual before working on your bike.
You will probably have many opinions and suggestions presented; make sure you research the person providing the helpful information as there are some who provide good information that is useful and some who speak out of other orifices with gibberish. You will figure out this quickly.

 

I bled the master cylinder some earlier and it’s starting to build up a little pressure so I’m hoping that the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt. Tuesday, I’m going to go by the Harley shop and see if they have a rebuild kit and if not I’ll order one. I’ll probably go ahead and get a set of pads while I’m at it. I have a tendency to believe that the mechanic that worked on it last year never checked the master cylinder or they were just trying to sell me an expensive abs unit.

 

Just an example but either one these styles of bleeders will work.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-63391.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...der-92924.html
Have used a Matco of this kind for years only thing I found better is a pressure bleeder. Their on the pricey side though.

When ABS came into play the hydraulic unit and added length of brake lines made the ol pump up , open bleeder ,pedal goes down then close bleeder a bit of a PIA at times. With bikes having a shorter stroke on the M/C than cars just adds to the PIA factor.

When you look for a rebuild kit try to get one with the piston.
By no means necessary just extra convenient.

Good luck WP

 

Ok thanks. If your offer to help still stands, I’ll let you help me once I get the rebuild kit in my hands. I don’t know whether Legacy has them in stock, but I’ll find out on Tuesday. I guess it wouldn’t hurt getting a bottle of brake fluid either.

 

Bout any Dot 4 fluid is good.
Cking with an Indy has done me good in the past as well.
The HD # 42382-878E looks to be correct according to Ronnie's but double ck it.
The Hd one looks to have the piston with the kit.
Hollar when ya get it

WP

 

Ok thanks, I will. Gonna pick up a bottle of brake fluid and try to bleed the master cylinder this afternoon, but still plan on installing a rebuild kit when I get it.

 

I was watching some videos on flushing and bleeding ABS brakes and saw that if any air got into the system the bike has to go to the dealer to get the brakes bled using their computer. My question now is will any air get into the system when I disconnect the brake line to remove the master cylinder to rebuild it? If that is the case, then there is no reason for me to rebuild the master cylinder, and take it to the shop to have it done.

 

As long as the ABS pump isn't cycled, ( which wont happen unless you are moving or using a tech tool to do it) the brakes can bled without introducing are into the ABS side. Long and short is, you will be fine.

 

Thank you. Thats what I was hoping to hear.

 

You'll be good to go.
If thought is really stuck in your head just pull the ABS or main fuse before working on it.
I have done some things out of an over abundance of caution when unsure

WP