2002 softail tank liner question
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 77
Likes: 24
From: Texas
2002 softail tank liner question
Hello all. While changing the petcock on my 2002 softail standard, I observed what appeared to be gray paint in the bottom of my fuel tank. After searching I learned what is now obvious as Harley lines the insides of their fuel tanks, and mine was obviously failing. I ordered the relining kit from KBS and have been watching videos as well as reading all the documentation I can find, but what I find puzzling is the best way to go about lining the split tanks with crossover? It seems every video I watch or article I read describes lining an older, or perhaps modern non split fuel tank.
What is the best way to go about cleaning, degreasing and relining a spit tank? The first thought that come to mind was plug everything off and splitting the mixture between both sides? Or perhaps just reinstalling the crossover line? Everything seems pretty straightforward other than that. Thoughts??
thanks for the insight
What is the best way to go about cleaning, degreasing and relining a spit tank? The first thought that come to mind was plug everything off and splitting the mixture between both sides? Or perhaps just reinstalling the crossover line? Everything seems pretty straightforward other than that. Thoughts??
thanks for the insight
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,920
Likes: 1,372
From: Black Hills of SD
Hello,
Since no one has chimed in, I will give you my 2 cents on the question and my experience with my 2002 FB tank.
First, it is a one piece tank, not two. There is a cross over tube that connects the two side by a nipple on hte underside of each and a rubber connection tube.
There is also a vent line inside that goes from the neck to the top front of the tank.
I had peeling of the liner and removed my tank and cleaned it. I made a rotisserie type set-up and used nails and a piece of chain as the abrasive to remove the lining. Dry, no liquid. You do need to make a cover plate for the tanks top panel and the fuel cap and pet **** or QD if EFI like mine is.
Being a carb model like yours, you do not have to deal with any internals like my EFI.
It took a while to get the liner to and be removed and I got most all of it with the nails and chain method. The hump area I used an exacto flat blade and got what the abrasives could not. Once satisfied, I cleaned the inside with water and dried and oiled. I do not support the use of replacement liners. In my opinion, I know people have used them and had issues.
Why do that if you get it nice and clean, keep fuel in it, especially ethanol-free fuel, all the time - rust or peeling will not be a problem again.
Not sure that answers all your questions but it does give you some info from someone who has done the job. I did that 4 years ago and it still looks great inside.
That liner is tough. it's not an easy job like an unlined normal bike tank, but certainly able to be cleaned.
Since no one has chimed in, I will give you my 2 cents on the question and my experience with my 2002 FB tank.
First, it is a one piece tank, not two. There is a cross over tube that connects the two side by a nipple on hte underside of each and a rubber connection tube.
There is also a vent line inside that goes from the neck to the top front of the tank.
I had peeling of the liner and removed my tank and cleaned it. I made a rotisserie type set-up and used nails and a piece of chain as the abrasive to remove the lining. Dry, no liquid. You do need to make a cover plate for the tanks top panel and the fuel cap and pet **** or QD if EFI like mine is.
Being a carb model like yours, you do not have to deal with any internals like my EFI.
It took a while to get the liner to and be removed and I got most all of it with the nails and chain method. The hump area I used an exacto flat blade and got what the abrasives could not. Once satisfied, I cleaned the inside with water and dried and oiled. I do not support the use of replacement liners. In my opinion, I know people have used them and had issues.
Why do that if you get it nice and clean, keep fuel in it, especially ethanol-free fuel, all the time - rust or peeling will not be a problem again.
Not sure that answers all your questions but it does give you some info from someone who has done the job. I did that 4 years ago and it still looks great inside.
That liner is tough. it's not an easy job like an unlined normal bike tank, but certainly able to be cleaned.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 77
Likes: 24
From: Texas
Hello,
Since no one has chimed in, I will give you my 2 cents on the question and my experience with my 2002 FB tank.
First, it is a one piece tank, not two. There is a cross over tube that connects the two side by a nipple on hte underside of each and a rubber connection tube.
There is also a vent line inside that goes from the neck to the top front of the tank.
I had peeling of the liner and removed my tank and cleaned it. I made a rotisserie type set-up and used nails and a piece of chain as the abrasive to remove the lining. Dry, no liquid. You do need to make a cover plate for the tanks top panel and the fuel cap and pet **** or QD if EFI like mine is.
Being a carb model like yours, you do not have to deal with any internals like my EFI.
It took a while to get the liner to and be removed and I got most all of it with the nails and chain method. The hump area I used an exacto flat blade and got what the abrasives could not. Once satisfied, I cleaned the inside with water and dried and oiled. I do not support the use of replacement liners. In my opinion, I know people have used them and had issues.
Why do that if you get it nice and clean, keep fuel in it, especially ethanol-free fuel, all the time - rust or peeling will not be a problem again.
Not sure that answers all your questions but it does give you some info from someone who has done the job. I did that 4 years ago and it still looks great inside.
That liner is tough. it's not an easy job like an unlined normal bike tank, but certainly able to be cleaned.
Since no one has chimed in, I will give you my 2 cents on the question and my experience with my 2002 FB tank.
First, it is a one piece tank, not two. There is a cross over tube that connects the two side by a nipple on hte underside of each and a rubber connection tube.
There is also a vent line inside that goes from the neck to the top front of the tank.
I had peeling of the liner and removed my tank and cleaned it. I made a rotisserie type set-up and used nails and a piece of chain as the abrasive to remove the lining. Dry, no liquid. You do need to make a cover plate for the tanks top panel and the fuel cap and pet **** or QD if EFI like mine is.
Being a carb model like yours, you do not have to deal with any internals like my EFI.
It took a while to get the liner to and be removed and I got most all of it with the nails and chain method. The hump area I used an exacto flat blade and got what the abrasives could not. Once satisfied, I cleaned the inside with water and dried and oiled. I do not support the use of replacement liners. In my opinion, I know people have used them and had issues.
Why do that if you get it nice and clean, keep fuel in it, especially ethanol-free fuel, all the time - rust or peeling will not be a problem again.
Not sure that answers all your questions but it does give you some info from someone who has done the job. I did that 4 years ago and it still looks great inside.
That liner is tough. it's not an easy job like an unlined normal bike tank, but certainly able to be cleaned.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,920
Likes: 1,372
From: Black Hills of SD
Thinking about this - without getting out my manuals to check - I bet you do not have the top removable panel as my EFI tank does. Made it easy to get inside, clean and see things and take the stubborn lining off that the abrasives did not get.
Like I said, I am very leary of liner-sealing products. After all the work it takes to get rid of the factory liner that failed, I would not do an aftermarket process feeling it would be very difficult to do it even near as well as the factory does in perfect conditions. Just my thoughts on it.
Good luck and hope it turns out as well as mine did. Took some work, but it was worth it! Clean and set now.
Like I said, I am very leary of liner-sealing products. After all the work it takes to get rid of the factory liner that failed, I would not do an aftermarket process feeling it would be very difficult to do it even near as well as the factory does in perfect conditions. Just my thoughts on it.
Good luck and hope it turns out as well as mine did. Took some work, but it was worth it! Clean and set now.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,077
Likes: 11,100
From: San Diego, CA
I had a peeling tank in my '01 Springer...
I did similar to MarlinSpike to clean it. Mine was for a carbed bike so no big openings.. I put some bird shot (#4 I think) in the tank, sealed it, I wrapped it real good in some old comforters so it wouldn't bounce around and to protect the paint, then put it in the dryer on spin only, no heat.
That got all the loose/lifting liner and really wore down any that was left. Most of the liner, 90%, was gone.
I read a bunch about all the different liner paints available. They all had fans, and also stories of failure...
Additionally, with a carb tank, my access to the interior of the tank both physically and visually is very limited.
I left my tank bare.
That was coming up on 8 years ago, and all is well with that tank, and the fuel system.
Since my experience is just anecdotal, I will ad that when I park the bike, the tank is over 1/2 full. I live in SoCal (dry climate). The bike is stored inside a small (360 sq ft), well insulated garage built just for my bikes/tools.
I don't know if a cooler, wetter climate would affect the unlined tank any different. There are no signs of rust on mine and the small patches of liner not removed by my cleaning technique have not come loose.
Good luck with your repair. Let us know what you decide and how it turns out..
I did similar to MarlinSpike to clean it. Mine was for a carbed bike so no big openings.. I put some bird shot (#4 I think) in the tank, sealed it, I wrapped it real good in some old comforters so it wouldn't bounce around and to protect the paint, then put it in the dryer on spin only, no heat.
That got all the loose/lifting liner and really wore down any that was left. Most of the liner, 90%, was gone.
I read a bunch about all the different liner paints available. They all had fans, and also stories of failure...
Additionally, with a carb tank, my access to the interior of the tank both physically and visually is very limited.
I left my tank bare.
That was coming up on 8 years ago, and all is well with that tank, and the fuel system.
Since my experience is just anecdotal, I will ad that when I park the bike, the tank is over 1/2 full. I live in SoCal (dry climate). The bike is stored inside a small (360 sq ft), well insulated garage built just for my bikes/tools.
I don't know if a cooler, wetter climate would affect the unlined tank any different. There are no signs of rust on mine and the small patches of liner not removed by my cleaning technique have not come loose.
Good luck with your repair. Let us know what you decide and how it turns out..
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 22, 2025 at 08:02 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 2,202
From: College Station, TX
The only tank sealer I've used and had success with is from Caswell Radiators. Yes, all rust and lose coatings must be reomved. I've used small nuts and outside star washers with successt. But it takes time and effort.
https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
Another option is GTL Advantage. They will clean and seal your existing tank without damaging the existing paint. Considering how much of a PIA it is, I'd consider going this route next time I have to do this task.
I haven't used them personally, but several other people (knowledgable and qualified) of this forum have used their service and have been happy repeat customers for other projects.
http://gastanklining.com/
https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
Another option is GTL Advantage. They will clean and seal your existing tank without damaging the existing paint. Considering how much of a PIA it is, I'd consider going this route next time I have to do this task.
I haven't used them personally, but several other people (knowledgable and qualified) of this forum have used their service and have been happy repeat customers for other projects.
http://gastanklining.com/
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 77
Likes: 24
From: Texas
I have around 95% of the old liner removed (the stubborn part around the bottom rim wont budge). Ive been taking my time and working on it slowly over the last few Fridays and Saturdays. Everyone is correct in the fact that it is a carb tank and very limited on openings and visibility. Ive been using the kbs clean with so small pieces of chain, nuts, bolts and screws. Taking inventory of exactly what I put in and making sure I get that exact amount back out. I just did the rust blast thing morning as just about everything that will come out of the tank has come out. Using an air compressor and tape now to remove the last of the little pieces. I still havent decided to line it or not. Part of me wants to, because I have already purchased the kbs 3 step system and have made it through step 1 and 2. I live in South Texas, we dont get a lot of cold but the heat and humidity can be crazy. But the bike stays parked in a climate controlled garage so I can probably get away with no liner. The only reason I keep thinking of doing it is just because I already bought the kit. Otherwise I probably wouldnt.
Trending Topics
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,920
Likes: 1,372
From: Black Hills of SD
Just something to think about - 99% of hte bikes out there were manufactured with plain steel unlined tanks. Most that have had rust issues, were from sitting for years with nearly empty tanks which allow condensation and rust to develop. Amplified by the wonderful ethanol that is now in many fuels.
Sounds like you are getting it! Good deal. If you rinse it with water to get all the powder residue - hit it with a spray lube to avoid "flash rusting" on the bare metal until you are ready to fill it up with fuel.
Good luck and look forward to hearing how it turns out. Try to avoid Eth and life will be much better.
Sounds like you are getting it! Good deal. If you rinse it with water to get all the powder residue - hit it with a spray lube to avoid "flash rusting" on the bare metal until you are ready to fill it up with fuel.
Good luck and look forward to hearing how it turns out. Try to avoid Eth and life will be much better.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,077
Likes: 11,100
From: San Diego, CA
Just something to think about - 99% of hte bikes out there were manufactured with plain steel unlined tanks. Most that have had rust issues, were from sitting for years with nearly empty tanks which allow condensation and rust to develop. Amplified by the wonderful ethanol that is now in many fuels.
FWIW... IMHO....
After my research I came to the conclusion that bare metal tanks, new or older but with no rust, are not in need of coating with a liner paint.
An older tank that is badly rusted and you want to restore it and put in back into service.... Yes, definitely user a liner coating.
When rebuilding the old Shovel Head engines, with the porous castings (like an old rusty fuel tank), most will coat the inside of the cases with "Glyptal Red" to seal the cases... But I don't think new or good condition metal fuel tanks are in need of the same care...
Again, just my opinion.
I just googled the question and found someone who shares my opinion... I have no idea of this guy's credentials or knowledge... but hey, he agrees with me...
The part about gas tanks starts at 2:00....
https://www.google.com/search?client...aYFAyuw,st:120
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 22, 2025 at 05:44 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post