Well I did it. I expect the brown truck on thursday with some true duals. The quiet baffles and fish tail tips will be here next week.

How easy is it to change out the baffles and tips on the true duals. Do the heat sheilds need to come off to access the screws for the baffle? I know on my pipes now the screws were behind the sheild. Had to remove the heat sheild. Would like to instll the pipeson friday unless I have to pull the pipesback offor the heat sheilds back off to install them. Is the baffle near the end of the pipe or in the middle.
Thanks for the help.

 

The quiet baffles went in easily. They are at the end of the exhaust. Get them started then slowly turn them as you push them in.Turn them away from the outside edge of the insulation wrap. I put mine in before the heat shields, but from what I remember you should be able to get at the screw.

 

I know what you mean about twisting them in and not bunching up the wrap. I am just curious if the baffle screw is behind the shield. If the shield runs to the end of the pipe it sounds like it might be.

 

Just went to the garage, the baffle screw isunder the shield.

 

Thank You Silver fox. One more question. Did you put the sheilds on after the pipes went on ?

 

Yes they were the last thing I put on. I have to put the fishtail tips on when they get here. Make sure you clean your heat shields good before you fire up your bike sothey don't mark themfrom the heat. They are a nice sounding exhaust, enjoy !!!

 

heres a tip before you install your fish tail tips make sure the holes that they screw into are in the corect position i think there are for holes but you want them in the correct position which is one stright up at twelve oclock the heat shields can be rotated when you loosen the clamps when i put my tips on the holes were off and the tips were not stright up they were tilting out rotate the shield and the holes can be lined up properly so the tips sit on in the correct position

 

I just finished my install this morning and finally fired her up just a while ago. I installed the quiet baffles before putting them on after reading how many here have put them in and liked them. The sound is great. Hopefully I will get to take her for a spin tonight to see how it runs. And like someone else said you do need to remove the heat shields to change the baffles. I'm sure you'll love the pipes!

 

I know this thread is like 5 years old but I just swapped out my stock TD baffles for the quiet baffles and figured that I'd post a step-by-step procedure for anyone else wanting to do this. I realize that the procedure looks complicated but in reality, it's a pretty easy swap that only takes about 20 min per side with some basic hand tools...

1. Remove two allen screws from exhaust tip, set aside. Remove tip and set aside.
2. On rear pipe section, loosen two heat shield exhaust clamp bands. On the clamp closer to the foot peg, make sure band completely exits worm screw.
3. Take heat shield off by sliding it back off the end of the pipe and moving trailing clamp band out of the way as it passes over the mounting standoff. Set aside.
4. Remove two bolts from mounting standoff on rear pipe and set aside. Note orientation of spacer bracket that sits inside channel, slide it out and set aside.
5. Loosen large exhaust clamp bolt at the rear pipe / header joint.
6. Loosen header heat shield exhaust clamp band nearest the header joint.
7. Remove rear pipe. If difficult to remove, try tapping it out at the front of the mounting standoff with a dead blow hammer and a piece of wood placed in front of it. I used a scrap piece of 2 x 4 and it broke it loose enough for me to wiggle it out the rest of the way.
8. On your bench, remove the allen head set screw from the pipe.
9. Using a long rod and a dead blow hammer, tap the shoulder of the stock baffle (in the same direction of exhaust flow) out of the rear pipe and set aside.
10. Insert the quiet baffle in the reverse direction. It will look like it won't fit because of the fiberglass but it will if you go slow and work the material into the pipe as you go with a thin instrument - I used a plastic trim removal tool. Make sure that you keep the set screw hole in the baffle aligned with the hole in the pipe as you do this.
11. Re-insert and tighten the allen head baffle set screw.
12. Clean rear pipe thoroughly, clean rear heat shield thoroughly (to keep finger prints from staining after pipes heat up). Use gloves to keep parts clean for the rest of the procedure.
13. Re-install rear pipe into header pipe and make sure pipe standoff is aligned with mounting bracket on bike. You may need to tap it into position with a block of wood and hammer.
14. Re-insert spacer bracket that sits inside mounting standoff on rear pipe and snug up the 2 bolts that go into it.
15. Tighten down large exhaust clamp bolt at the rear pipe / header joint.
16. Tighten down header heat shield exhaust clamp band nearest the header joint.
17. Re-install heat shield by sliding it back over rear pipe and moving forward clamp band out of the way until it clears the mounting standoff and bracket.
18. Snug loosely but don't tighten down both remaining rear heat shield exhaust band clamps.
19. Re-insert exhaust tip and tighten down two allen head set screws. Check alignment of tip and heat shield, correct if necessary and final tighten both band clamps.
20. Clean pipe one final time and repeat procedure on other side.

I don't quite know how to accurately explain the difference in sound between the two sets of baffles, but I can say that they are maybe a few db quieter and don't have the raw, cracking wide-open harshness that the stock baffles have. I can definitely say that the additional back-pressure eliminated about 98% of the decel pop that I had before no matter how much I tuned the bike. All in all, I think that changing them out was worth the time and expense.

Hope this helps someone out.