DIY Cheap Mods
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: South Mississippi
"Fix" the Rocker C Seat
If you are interested in knowing how to modify the dreadedly uncomfortabe Rocker C seat for a few bucks then hit the following connection:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post4228103
It doesn't take long, it's inexpensive and it's soooooo much more comfortable.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post4228103
It doesn't take long, it's inexpensive and it's soooooo much more comfortable.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,592
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Semi-quick removable backrest mod
If you want to do a little handy work and save a bunch of money, here's the trick. buy the standard rigid mount sissy bar side plates and modify the mount holes so that you can loosen the bolts and tilt the back rest forward and then lift up. The back rest is removed and now you just tighten the bolts up. If you put the washer (included with the hardware that comes with the side plates) between the side plate and the fender strut, the side plates will not scratch up the struts. A nice side benefit of this (besides the major cost savings!) is that noone can just walk up and grab your back rest. I know they have locks for the quick detachable kind, but that adds even more cost. You slot the forward hole forward and the rear hole down and on a slight forward angle. Be sure to prime/paint the trimmed area (and clean and repaint them once a year or so. If you are good with a cutting wheel in a die grinder, you can do each of these little cuts in one slice with no damage to the exposed surfaces. A couple layers of masking tape will go a long way in preventing damage. Here's a pic of how I did mine and my little hand drawn blueprint.
It is important that you make the cuts the way I have drawn them. This way, the direction it takes to remove the backrest is exactly the opposite direction of the pressure while it is in use.
The Dyna guys can do this too.
It is important that you make the cuts the way I have drawn them. This way, the direction it takes to remove the backrest is exactly the opposite direction of the pressure while it is in use.
The Dyna guys can do this too.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,592
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I don't remember how much the price dif was, but I'm thinking it cuts the price in half compared to the quick disconnect set-up without the locks. When I did it, I actually had the money (remember that, having money?LOL) but I didn't like the relocation kit for the signals and I liked the stock signals. Plus, for me, it's always fun to spend some money on a brand new part and then remove it from the box and hit it with the die grinder. LOL
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
Softail Rear Light Pan
I was sitting in the garage admiring my brand new J&S Jack (http://www.jsjacks.com trust me... they are worth every penny)
While I sat there i began to despise my tail light more and more with each passing moment. *shrug* I dunno... you know how that happens right?
I decided to do something about it... I have wanted to install something with integrated turn signals for a long time... but the integrated signals for HD seem incredibly lacking asthetically to me.
I much prefer something like the Ducati Monster,
(
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-MONSTER-94-07-600-750-900-Signal-LED-Tail-Lights_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q 3a4Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c29 3Q3a1Q7c294Q3a200QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZ item220325742991QQitemZ220325742991QQptZMotorcycle sQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
dont look at me like that! Its MY bike!
But it wont just mount up to this ugly plastic POS
Thinking caps on!
Once you remove the ugly effin hunk of plastic, slap a piece of cardboard up there. Make a couple of 1 inch notches so the cardboard can slip down past the point where the lower tag panel attaches to the tail light housing.
Flip the housing around and trace the outer edge. Cut out your template and.... voila!
Grab some sheet metal... 5-7 bucks at home depot
This pan will eat up 8 inches... so you can get three of these out of a 12x24 sheet. I know this isnt very thick... just mocking this idea up and it could be cut and trimmed easily with snips. I will get something thicker for the final pan.
Clamp the template down on an 8x12 inch piece of your sheet metal and trace around it. You probably have super cool metal working clamps... I got these all purpose "I need to clamp wood together for the glue to dry" clamps... so I used them.
Use the snips to cut out around your line... but stop at the bottom of the line... you will see why in a second.
You need these little ears to fold up. You will drill two holes in each to mount your new pan.
Yeah some masking tape on the fender to prevent scars when you are fitting the new pan is EXCELLENT advise. I happen to have a set of denim black in a box waiting on me to install so I didnt really care as these will end up being painted as well. But anyway... slap some flat black paint on this and you have something you can mount other lights to.
With this is mind I grabbed a light I had picked up for the sporty just to see something blinky back there. Drilled a couple of holes, shoved it in and poof! New light!
Yeah it looks like crap... of course I would recess it into a hole so it mounted flush.... but its not the light I will end up with anyway. And again, this is just mocking up an idea.... I will get some thicker steel and use this as a template to make the final product.
<--- I dont know WHY this freakin picture wont show up when I read the post... but in case it doesnt for you either... here is the direct link http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JHCRXNuv84Q/SU...k/template.jpg
This should be self explainitory.... you want a piece of sheet metal shaped like the black lines... to scale with your fender of course.
Bend it on the red lines... Ta Daa!
Drill a couple of holes for the mounting bolts.... and now for the tricky part... either find some low profile nuts to go between the bracket and fenderwall... or you can try to reuse the ones from the stock plastic mount. I went with low profiles I found in the specialty fasteners at my local ACE hardware.
Im sure there is a better way... but this is me getting one step closer to integrated turns in a tail light and ripping the stock mushroom stalks off my rear fender. I think it will clean up the rear end real nice.
Let the bashing begin!
While I sat there i began to despise my tail light more and more with each passing moment. *shrug* I dunno... you know how that happens right?
I decided to do something about it... I have wanted to install something with integrated turn signals for a long time... but the integrated signals for HD seem incredibly lacking asthetically to me.
I much prefer something like the Ducati Monster,
(
dont look at me like that! Its MY bike!
But it wont just mount up to this ugly plastic POS
Thinking caps on!
Once you remove the ugly effin hunk of plastic, slap a piece of cardboard up there. Make a couple of 1 inch notches so the cardboard can slip down past the point where the lower tag panel attaches to the tail light housing.
Flip the housing around and trace the outer edge. Cut out your template and.... voila!
Grab some sheet metal... 5-7 bucks at home depot
This pan will eat up 8 inches... so you can get three of these out of a 12x24 sheet. I know this isnt very thick... just mocking this idea up and it could be cut and trimmed easily with snips. I will get something thicker for the final pan.
Clamp the template down on an 8x12 inch piece of your sheet metal and trace around it. You probably have super cool metal working clamps... I got these all purpose "I need to clamp wood together for the glue to dry" clamps... so I used them.
Use the snips to cut out around your line... but stop at the bottom of the line... you will see why in a second.
You need these little ears to fold up. You will drill two holes in each to mount your new pan.
Yeah some masking tape on the fender to prevent scars when you are fitting the new pan is EXCELLENT advise. I happen to have a set of denim black in a box waiting on me to install so I didnt really care as these will end up being painted as well. But anyway... slap some flat black paint on this and you have something you can mount other lights to.
With this is mind I grabbed a light I had picked up for the sporty just to see something blinky back there. Drilled a couple of holes, shoved it in and poof! New light!
Yeah it looks like crap... of course I would recess it into a hole so it mounted flush.... but its not the light I will end up with anyway. And again, this is just mocking up an idea.... I will get some thicker steel and use this as a template to make the final product.
<--- I dont know WHY this freakin picture wont show up when I read the post... but in case it doesnt for you either... here is the direct link http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JHCRXNuv84Q/SU...k/template.jpgThis should be self explainitory.... you want a piece of sheet metal shaped like the black lines... to scale with your fender of course.
Bend it on the red lines... Ta Daa!
Drill a couple of holes for the mounting bolts.... and now for the tricky part... either find some low profile nuts to go between the bracket and fenderwall... or you can try to reuse the ones from the stock plastic mount. I went with low profiles I found in the specialty fasteners at my local ACE hardware.
Im sure there is a better way... but this is me getting one step closer to integrated turns in a tail light and ripping the stock mushroom stalks off my rear fender. I think it will clean up the rear end real nice.
Let the bashing begin!
Last edited by Dagerazod; Dec 22, 2008 at 05:21 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
Great Thinking
Ingredients:
Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00
Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button
Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.
Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00
Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button
Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
Another mod to share, I wanted a garage door opener for so long, I always keep the remote in my jacket but a lot of time I miss the button. All you need is a 4 terminals relay (5 is ok) and a garage door remote control. I tap the high beam wire to the relay terminal 86, white color according to the wiring diagram, terminal 85 to ground, terminal 30 and 87 to remote control switch circuit. Now when I hit the high beam switch, I activate the relay and join my remote switch circuit. Remote control costs $20, relay $5 + 2 beer labor. Not bad at all compare to $125 for the HD one. Cheers! Alex
P.S. If you use a 5 terminals relay, just leave the 87a unused. You can also wire a momentary switch to join the relay solenoid circuit. I prefer high beam switch because it is easy to hit.
P.S. If you use a 5 terminals relay, just leave the 87a unused. You can also wire a momentary switch to join the relay solenoid circuit. I prefer high beam switch because it is easy to hit.
