DIY Cheap Mods
Citori, great idea with the soldering kit. \\; One recommendation though is to always twist your wires at least a couple of times before soldering. \\; This way they won't pull apart if you inadvertently apply a pull on the installation. \\;
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I noticed on your blinker wires you had all your ends cut the same length. \\; I always stagger the cut ends so there's no big bulge in one spot. \\; With all the crimped ends there's always a hassle finding a place to tuck that big bulge in some tight spots on todays bikes. \\;
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I will definately be ordering some of that mesh sheathing. \\; I am doing my turn signals and want that same clean look. \\; Thanks for the numbers, that makes it easy. \\; Great idea for this thread.
 \\;
I noticed on your blinker wires you had all your ends cut the same length. \\; I always stagger the cut ends so there's no big bulge in one spot. \\; With all the crimped ends there's always a hassle finding a place to tuck that big bulge in some tight spots on todays bikes. \\;
 \\;
I will definately be ordering some of that mesh sheathing. \\; I am doing my turn signals and want that same clean look. \\; Thanks for the numbers, that makes it easy. \\; Great idea for this thread.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=588
They have other diameters. You will have to look around. Look under "tools and tech aid"
Last edited by Deluxe Rider; Aug 23, 2008 at 03:12 AM.
Already made stainless steel inserts for rear frame. Now working on stainless steel inserts for rear inner fender, photos to follow.
Inserts were made from a flat sheet of stainless. Made pattern with masking tape and sawed out with jewlers saw then finished off with dremel tool.

Both bags were made from scratch using Tandy Leather 10oz. hides then dyed for the antique look.
[ATTACH][ATTACH]4143
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
And also made this fully functional camera mount to shoot pictures and videos, using pvc hose clamps and the top part of an old tripod that's been sitting in the closet for ten years.
Inserts were made from a flat sheet of stainless. Made pattern with masking tape and sawed out with jewlers saw then finished off with dremel tool.


Both bags were made from scratch using Tandy Leather 10oz. hides then dyed for the antique look.
[ATTACH][ATTACH]4143
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
And also made this fully functional camera mount to shoot pictures and videos, using pvc hose clamps and the top part of an old tripod that's been sitting in the closet for ten years.
Last edited by 2008softail; Sep 9, 2008 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Got Pictures
Ingredients:
Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00

Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button


Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.

Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00
Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button
Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.
Very clever sticking it inside the bags like that. Keeps it close without taking up any of the very limited under seat space.
One suggestion I have would be to cover the unit and especially the loose wires with something to protect them from anything you might stuff in or pull out of the bag.
One suggestion I have would be to cover the unit and especially the loose wires with something to protect them from anything you might stuff in or pull out of the bag.
I am looking for a small plastic box (pack o' smokes size) to put the opener in with a longer wire to bury it at the bottom of the bag, maybe a small tube to run the wire through.... or better yet ... Hot Glue! I love hot glue.
Thanks for the reply.
As a MacGyver fix, its excellent. But there is no real need to move the unit and burring it under things in the bottom of the bag might actually inhibit the output signal if you were to put anything on top of it with a metal content or metalized mylar. Better to leave it where it is and just go to the local Auto Parts place and see about picking up a short piece of that split plastic wire covering, put the wires in it and 'hot glue' it to the inside of the bag. The split tube will let you put it on without having to desolder and resolder the wires again. Just slip it over them and glue it to the side of the bag.
If your not sure what I'm talking about. I did a quick search on line and this is the first place I found where you can see what it looks like. As you can see its not very expensive and your probably only going to need 4 or 5 inches of the smallest sized.
http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html
Have fun and thanks for putting up your idea.
If your not sure what I'm talking about. I did a quick search on line and this is the first place I found where you can see what it looks like. As you can see its not very expensive and your probably only going to need 4 or 5 inches of the smallest sized.
http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html
Have fun and thanks for putting up your idea.
Front Turn Signal Relocation on an FL Frontend:
Alright, here's my contribution. This is one of my favorite mods so far, and cost less than $10.00 and some time. Enjoy...
Finally got around to relocating my turn signals on my 2006 FATBOY. I know this has been a popular topic around here lately, so I just wanted to post a step-by-step process for others to reference. Hope it helps. Thanks to everyone for the input.
Remove signals from bars, pull wires out.

Locate the turn signal plug on right side of tank.

Install 2" 5/16x24 bolt with blue locktite.Useone 5/16x24 nut to tighten down fork accent strip. Use a second 5/16x24 nut to tighten against turn signal. Screw turn signal on bolt and tighten nut down to lock in place.


Repeat the previous step on opposite side.

You are now ready to splice thewires. I used wire connector b/c my soldering gun crapped out on me in the middle of the project.



I also reccomend putting heat shrink over the splice.
I used a multimeter to make sure connections were sound.

Use zip ties to secure loose wires and keep everything in place. And your done!
Alright, here's my contribution. This is one of my favorite mods so far, and cost less than $10.00 and some time. Enjoy...
Finally got around to relocating my turn signals on my 2006 FATBOY. I know this has been a popular topic around here lately, so I just wanted to post a step-by-step process for others to reference. Hope it helps. Thanks to everyone for the input.
Remove signals from bars, pull wires out.

Locate the turn signal plug on right side of tank.

Install 2" 5/16x24 bolt with blue locktite.Useone 5/16x24 nut to tighten down fork accent strip. Use a second 5/16x24 nut to tighten against turn signal. Screw turn signal on bolt and tighten nut down to lock in place.


Repeat the previous step on opposite side.

You are now ready to splice thewires. I used wire connector b/c my soldering gun crapped out on me in the middle of the project.



I also reccomend putting heat shrink over the splice.
I used a multimeter to make sure connections were sound.

Use zip ties to secure loose wires and keep everything in place. And your done!
Last edited by In Memoriam Citoriplus; Oct 13, 2008 at 01:06 AM.
I have done that 2 years ago.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showt...127027#1931040
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showt...127027#1931040
Ingredients:
Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00

Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button


Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.


Existing door opener
Old aquarium light hood switch with rubber boot
Spare computer cable
Cost $0.00
Soldered some wire between the switch contacts and the button
Punched a hole in the bag, screwed the switch on, stuck the opener to the inside and booted it.


