Anyone have a better solution for the problem of swapping rear fenders and having to peel the rear end light wiring off of fender A and it not being sticky anymore to slap it up on fender B?

This is all I could come up with....


I put a couple of zip ties between the fender support and fender to hold the wire.



Then another on the tail light mount.
Doesnt hold the wiring UP and out of the way as much as against the fender wall.

Do you think this will work? Do you have a better solution?

 

Can you provide more details?
I recently purchased a 2000 Heritage...with saggy bag syndrome.

What about the outer lip of the bags? There's a metal support but I think this extra "support" actually aids in the collapse due to the extra weight of the metal strip and lack of REAL support.

any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

when i swapped out my rear fender i got rid of all that all together, but you could clean off the glue with some WD-40 or maybe some Zippo fluid and apply some 3M double sided tape to the rubber piece and place it where ever you need, i would use the 3M tape as i have found the off brand stuff to not work as well

 

Rarely do any of the mods I do to my bike garner much attention... but I had 3 people ask me about this tail light thing today so I thought Id share it in case anyone here hadnt thought of it yet.



I ripped off the stock reflector bar, marked around the tag and dremeled the excess material off.



you have to cut the wires to get the interface clip out of the standoff.
so I soldered them back together and used some shrink tube there next to my thumb



with the standoff out of the way, I found a couple of shorter bolts, not short enough so I spun on a nut, drilled a hole through the plastic and tightened them up to the lights.
probably a better solution but I needed to run to the store and cops are dicks about you not having a tail light around here so I had to improvise something. I will clean it up later with some shorter bolts... duhhhh or maybe move the damned nut to the OTHER side of the plastic. DOH!

lather, rinse, repeat for the other side.



Parts are only finger tight in the pic but you get the idea.
Really cleaned up the rear end of the bike in my opinion.



I suppose Im supposed to blank out or obscure my tag or something.... though I dont know why...
anyway... there ya go...

 

I have a 2000 heritage. How can I mod the turn signals to include running lights?

I'd also like to mod the spots on the front to come on not only when the low beams are on..but even when high beams are on.
anyone??

 

Dagerazod,
I like that idea a LOT, I'm going to HAVE to see if I can adapt that idea to the Tri-Bar I have. I have been looking to change mine to use LED's as a run, turn, brake setup and putting them all that close together would make a serious statement when you hit the brakes.
Be the equivlent of a bikers version of one of the older 60's T-Brids with the full width tailights.
Verry good idea and very cheap.

Just a suggestion, but I would see if you can get some stainless steel bolts and use some anti-sieze or blue lock-tite on them. Being underneath like that they are going to catch hell from road spray. Common steel bolts will start rusting almost before you finish tightening them and even with anti-sieze could easily get real hard to remove if you ever have a reason to take them out in the future.

 

I'm guessing that your talking about the rear turn signals, cause the fronts are already wired for the run function.
Ther's a couple of different ways to make them work that way. The fastest and easiest is to get a run, turn, brake module from somplace like Biketronics or your local Harley dealer. Its a plug and play setup that litterally plugs into the existing harness (even has the right plugs) and does exactly what your asking for. The one from Harley also comes with red lenses to replace the existing amber ones, I'm not sure about the ones from other outlets. Both of the ones I mentioned are avalable for around $50 and take about 10 minutes to install. With most of that time being devoted to taking the seat off and replacing it.
The other is a bit tougher and involves replacing the stock turn signals with ones from the front of the bike. You can get them off evil-bay for a decent price.
Then splicing them into the existing wire harness under the fender like this.



Just ignore the part showing the switch (SPST SWITCH) and use a straight wire instead. The diagram was originally intended to show the setup if you have amber lenses and they are illegal as rear running lights, but they are OK as turn signals in all states.
Its abit harder to do, but it does offer the virtue of having two bulb elements lighting up with the brake or turn signals making them a bit brighter.

If your interested in having the Aux lights work all the time. Your going to have to find a wireing digram for your bike (in the back of the service manual) and move the power supply line from the low beam circuit to its own dedicated, AND FUSED power source. Preferrably using a switched power line so it not on all the time like it would be if it were wired directly to the battery. Even if it has a switch, and many bikes seem to have them for those lights. You still want to have that switch fed from a switched line. That way even if the lights are switched on, they will not light unless the ignition switch is in either the IGN or the ACC position.
Wired to the battery it would be all to easy to forget to turn them off in daylight and have them kill your battery on you.

 

What you have will work, but I have reservations about the cable between the zip ties.

These type of clamps are avalable in most Radio Shack or other electronics stores, as well as Home Depot or Lowes I would think.


They WILL hold the cable securely, but you still have the problem of cable 'droop' between the clamps.
About the only thing I can think of off the top of my head would be to cut something like 1/2 to 1" copper tubing (plumbing pipe) in half length wise paint the inside with a decent primer paint and use some JB Weld to glue it to the inside of the fender.
It will make a tunnel of sorts for you to fish the wires through. Spray the exposed outer part and inner fender with some rubberized undercoating paint and it should outlast the bike and protect the wires from any kind of road junk or rocks the tire might chuck at them.
Sorry that's about all I can think of now, but if I come up with something better I'll let you know.

 

hehe...not on this one! I just double checked... no running lights on the front. Only turns.

there's already a switch installed.

I think there may be another solution.
If it's drawing power from the low beam, I should be able to simply install a diode from the high beam to the lights. This will allow current to flow from the high beam to the lights...but when the low beams are on, the diode will prevent power from going to the highbeam circuit.

Mine are always on. I never mess with the switch but have tested it so I know it works.
Thanks for the information and the diagrams. They'll be helpful as I learn this bike.

 

hehe....well..I guess biketronics doesn't like to do business
There's no search bar on their site...no way to tell what I need...what I want..or even list things

There are biketronic part numbers...I guess I'd have to click each one and go through their whole list of parts until I found the one I wanted.

Maybe they're in need of a good website developer