Need help with finding part number
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
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Need help with finding part number
I have the dreaded front end clunk on my 2007 Fat Boy, and I think I may need to change the steering head washer. Can anyone tell me what the part number for that washer is so I can have the stealer order it for me?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,415
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From: San Antonio, Republic of TEXAS
not to be a smart azz, since you're gonna have the dealer order it anyway, why wouldn't you get the number from the parts guys instead of someone on the internet? do you really trust someone on-line over the HD parts counter????
just asking.
just asking.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
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Not to be a smart *** myself, but yeah, I trust the knowledge of the users here on this forum over the HD parts counter guys. Plus I've read a bunch of stuff about this issue, and most report that their dealer doesn't even know what they're talking about. All the info on part numbers that I've seen in other places reference the replacement for the Dyna family, but there's mention made to there being a similar tech bulletin for the Softail family......no one makes mention of the part number for the Softail, though.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
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From:
You should not need any parts. Just the steering head bolts need to be tightened. Mine was clunky before the 1k service and was tightened then...well after the service when I brought it back to be done. Has been fine ever since. At 3600mi now
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ontario Canada
Actually if you tighten the steering head nut to the proper torque the lock tab washer will tear or crush and render the locking tab useless.
I just looked and I threw out the bag with the part number on it but the new washer has no lock tab and is hardened. The washer and right torque fixed the clunk for me on my 07 fxst.
I just looked and I threw out the bag with the part number on it but the new washer has no lock tab and is hardened. The washer and right torque fixed the clunk for me on my 07 fxst.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
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I'm planning on checking the steering head nut to see if it is loose, since some report that it's barely hand-tight when they've looked at theirs. If that's the case, I'll torque the original to 35 lbs which is what I've read that the original equipment is supposed to be set to. However, if that doesn't fix it, then I'm going to get the replacement washer.
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May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
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From: Rochester, NY
Reading through this thread there was something about just tightening the nut/bolt on the steering head that bothered me, but I couldn't remember why.
So I looked it up in my manual (next to gas its the best $ I ever spent on my bike) and was reminded that you have to loosen the fork tube pinch bolts. The tubes need to be free to slide and it even recommends using a dead blow hammer if needed to make sure.
This makes sense when you think about it. For the bearings to work properly the tree's HAVE to be parallel to each other at all times. Tightening the bolt without loosening the fork leg pinch bolts will cause the back end of the trees to be pulled closer together than the front putting uneven pressure on the bearings.
Even if its only a fraction of an inch out of parallel it will place an uneven load on the bearings. It might fix your clunk today, but rest assured it will be back that much sooner because of accelerated wear on the rollers and races.
While I seriously doubt its ever happened to a bike bearing cage failure is often traceable back to exactly this kind of offset loading.
So I looked it up in my manual (next to gas its the best $ I ever spent on my bike) and was reminded that you have to loosen the fork tube pinch bolts. The tubes need to be free to slide and it even recommends using a dead blow hammer if needed to make sure.
This makes sense when you think about it. For the bearings to work properly the tree's HAVE to be parallel to each other at all times. Tightening the bolt without loosening the fork leg pinch bolts will cause the back end of the trees to be pulled closer together than the front putting uneven pressure on the bearings.
Even if its only a fraction of an inch out of parallel it will place an uneven load on the bearings. It might fix your clunk today, but rest assured it will be back that much sooner because of accelerated wear on the rollers and races.
While I seriously doubt its ever happened to a bike bearing cage failure is often traceable back to exactly this kind of offset loading.
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