Brake Lights
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 4
From: Columbus, OH
RE: Brake Lights
Mines doing the same thing, I keep forgetting to check it out until after I'm riding it. Then the pipes are too hot to be poking around between them. I've heard you can get the switch at NAPA and save a couple dollars if you cross reference the part numbers. You may have to bleed the brake line if the switch is removed.
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Brake Lights
Thanks for the reply. I'm about like yourself when it comes to fixing this problem. I have gotten use to touching my front brake level to light the brake light up. We both need to get it fixed before we get hit. I am going to work on it tonight and I will get back with you.
Later,
[IMG]local://upfiles/19319/27F078298D9A425CAC87B458709B367D.jpg[/IMG]
Later,
[IMG]local://upfiles/19319/27F078298D9A425CAC87B458709B367D.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Brake Lights
Worked on the brake lights last night. Got the brake lights working but now it is not as bright when you press the rear foot brake as it is when you press the front hand brake. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[IMG]local://upfiles/19319/AABB883E95044E2FBDE48CAFD3C57381.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/19319/AABB883E95044E2FBDE48CAFD3C57381.jpg[/IMG]
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
RE: Brake Lights
Its a fair bet the switch isn't woring properly. The lower light level tells me your not getting a good electrical connection between the contacts.
That or you still have a bad electrical connection somewhere else between the pedal switch and the rear light.
If you have a VOM meter check the switch with it. It should show a dead short when the pedel is depressed. If there is any resistance value higher than about 50 ohms, you have found your problem. It should be 0 ohms, even 50 is stretching it a bit.
If it looks good you going to have to try to trace the wires back from the master cylinder, pulling all the connectors apart. One of them is either not seated properly or its corroded giving you a bad connection. Don't forget to check the connector at the master cylinder first. It could be the problem as its way down in the front, where it gets exposed to all kinds of water and road debris.
Look into each one, with a flashlight if necessary to see if any have corrosion in them. With the brass connectors it will look green. If you find any get some cleaner to get it out and then use some dielectric grease to reseal it and waterproof it before you put them back together.
Strange as it seems there is a good cleaner called "TarneX", comes in a brown plastic bottle. Its actually marketed for cleaning silverware and copper bottom cooking pots. But it works quite well on brass and copper connectors too.
Just get some on a Q-Tip and poke it into the connetor till it looks clean. Flush it clean with warm water and blow dry it with a hair drier or something.
Putting in the dielectric grease afterwards will prevent water from getting in there and starting the corrosion again.
Good Luck hunting.
That or you still have a bad electrical connection somewhere else between the pedal switch and the rear light.
If you have a VOM meter check the switch with it. It should show a dead short when the pedel is depressed. If there is any resistance value higher than about 50 ohms, you have found your problem. It should be 0 ohms, even 50 is stretching it a bit.
If it looks good you going to have to try to trace the wires back from the master cylinder, pulling all the connectors apart. One of them is either not seated properly or its corroded giving you a bad connection. Don't forget to check the connector at the master cylinder first. It could be the problem as its way down in the front, where it gets exposed to all kinds of water and road debris.
Look into each one, with a flashlight if necessary to see if any have corrosion in them. With the brass connectors it will look green. If you find any get some cleaner to get it out and then use some dielectric grease to reseal it and waterproof it before you put them back together.
Strange as it seems there is a good cleaner called "TarneX", comes in a brown plastic bottle. Its actually marketed for cleaning silverware and copper bottom cooking pots. But it works quite well on brass and copper connectors too.
Just get some on a Q-Tip and poke it into the connetor till it looks clean. Flush it clean with warm water and blow dry it with a hair drier or something.
Putting in the dielectric grease afterwards will prevent water from getting in there and starting the corrosion again.
Good Luck hunting.
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