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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 03:55 PM
  #31  
08Nighttrain's Avatar
08Nighttrain
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From: Florida
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You can run ethanol when motor is set up for it but if not like some of our older bikes it eats the rubber and seals and causes problems.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #32  
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Shredding rubber
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[QUOTE=snook592;8252835]You should only put in premium fuel. It burns hotter and helps clean everything out.
Ummm no. Premium doesn't burn hotter,in fact there is less energy(btu's) in high octane fuel which is why it suppreses knock and ping,because its harder to burn.
And only use octane boost if you have to,not as a rule.

Op. Fuel shouldn't have any bearing on oil. Keep using royal purple. I've used the auto 20w-50 in my bike and it quieted the top end significantly. However if you change your oil at some kind of retarded interval like 2500 mikes then don't waste your money on synthetic.
I've read 2 studies now that state wear increases at the time of oil change and spikes after 1500 miles on new oil,then wear rates begin to lower,so changing your oil often actually increases wear.
Running a syn to 10000 miles equates to less wear per 1000 miles then changing your oil at 5000 miles twice.
New oil strip the old oils anti-wear layer off and takes time to put the new anti-wear layer on. During this time wear metals increase. So if you are using a synthetic it's smart to extend the interval because it lowers your wear metals per 1000 miles.
And before anyone thinks about flaming my post try researching the whole issue.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 04:15 PM
  #33  
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Warp Factor
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From: Detroit
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Originally Posted by 08Nighttrain
You can run ethanol when motor is set up for it but if not like some of our older bikes it eats the rubber and seals and causes problems.
Ten percent ethanol was pretty well tested for backwards compatibility before it was government mandated in certain areas.

85 percent ethanol can be different. Numerous users report that there aren't fuel system problems in vehicles going back to about 1998 (provided that one increases needed flow capacity, because more volume is needed).

I'm in the heartland of the auto companies, and interact with their engineers regularly, but can't say whether HD has kept up with the major auto producers.
 

Last edited by Warp Factor; Oct 30, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #34  
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BACON84
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
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From: Houston
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[quote=Shredding rubber;10500675]
Originally Posted by snook592
You should only put in premium fuel. It burns hotter and helps clean everything out.
Ummm no. Premium doesn't burn hotter,in fact there is less energy(btu's) in high octane fuel which is why it suppreses knock and ping,because its harder to burn.
And only use octane boost if you have to,not as a rule.

Op. Fuel shouldn't have any bearing on oil. Keep using royal purple. I've used the auto 20w-50 in my bike and it quieted the top end significantly. However if you change your oil at some kind of retarded interval like 2500 mikes then don't waste your money on synthetic.
I've read 2 studies now that state wear increases at the time of oil change and spikes after 1500 miles on new oil,then wear rates begin to lower,so changing your oil often actually increases wear.
Running a syn to 10000 miles equates to less wear per 1000 miles then changing your oil at 5000 miles twice.
New oil strip the old oils anti-wear layer off and takes time to put the new anti-wear layer on. During this time wear metals increase. So if you are using a synthetic it's smart to extend the interval because it lowers your wear metals per 1000 miles.
And before anyone thinks about flaming my post try researching the whole issue.
Seriously? Not saying you are wrong, but can you post a link to said studies? That sounds like it is worth reading!
 
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