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Old May 21, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Sidecar Cycles
Its your ignition switch, you can replace it or better still... flip the dash over and remove the switch, spray it with WD-40 and work the switch through all its positions. Afterwards spray it again, only this time use white lithium grease, or better still lube it with dielectric grease.
A quick way to confirm this is the problem... turn the switch on and then nud it a little to get out of the detent... you should see the speedo come to life etc.
Plus one....BUT...use CRC conductivity spray or equivalent rather than WD-40....you don't want oil residue at this point. WD-40 at start of winter season ok. If you can't get speedo back..make sure connections are all tight to battery and that compler to speedo is seated. If problem still there you may need new switch. Next yr get a battery tender and cycle main rotary ig switch a few times when its snowing ... or move down here to FL with the rest of us cranky old bikers.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cpiad
Plus one....BUT...use CRC conductivity spray or equivalent rather than WD-40....you don't want oil residue at this point. WD-40 at start of winter season ok. If you can't get speedo back..make sure connections are all tight to battery and that compler to speedo is seated. If problem still there you may need new switch. Next yr get a battery tender and cycle main rotary ig switch a few times when its snowing ... or move down here to FL with the rest of us cranky old bikers.
I wish it was. It isn't. The switch in the bike works perfectly in my other bike. The switch in the other bike that works perfectly in it's own place does the same thing when moved to this bike.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck
I wish it was. It isn't. The switch in the bike works perfectly in my other bike. The switch in the other bike that works perfectly in it's own place does the same thing when moved to this bike.
Damn...well then. We got three potential things come to mind...bad or shaky ground....a dead or stuck relay or a dead speedo head. I would loan you one...but I sold the thing on fleabay. Try working backwards to see if you have a bad ground near the tank. Then look at relays. You are gonna need a circuit schematic. I would put my money on a bad ground...I've seen some shtt on these bikes...bad grnds from factory...paint....corrosion...damn....
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cpiad
Damn...well then. We got three potential things come to mind...bad or shaky ground....a dead or stuck relay or a dead speedo head. I would loan you one...but I sold the thing on fleabay. Try working backwards to see if you have a bad ground near the tank. Then look at relays. You are gonna need a circuit schematic. I would put my money on a bad ground...I've seen some shtt on these bikes...bad grnds from factory...paint....corrosion...damn....
I've looked at the grounds, haven't put an ohm meter on them yet. I think there is only the one relay, the 5 pronged one in the fuse block. Is there another I'm not aware of? I'm pretty sure the speedo head is toast. I've gotten far enough in the HD manual flow chart to see that the consistent lack of an odometer reading means a bad speedo. I'm looking for a used speedo and have a line on a 2008 one. I'm just not sure it will retrofit to the 2003. The plug looks about the same and the big diff is the 6th speed light. Maybe I'll find someone that knows for sure.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #25  
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Take a Digital Voltmeter ($5 DVOM from Radio Shack will work well enough) and put the Red lead on the Ground wires for the Speedometer at the speedometer, with the Black Lead on the Battery Ground Terminal. Select DC Volts and a range anywhere between 15 and 50 volts on the DVOM. At no time: Engine Off, Engine Cranking and Engine Running should you ever read more than 0.10 Volts. If you do read more than 0.10 Volts you have a bad ground circuit that is feeding back into other circuits that share the same ground terminal on the bike.

Also . . . get a wiring diagram for the bike. If you have to spring for a HD Service Manual do so. In the long run it will be an excellent investment; particularly if you intend on doing your own maintenance and light service work.

BTW an Ohmmeter will NOT find a bad ground wire or ground connection unless it is completely disconnected . . . and that is almost never the case.
 

Last edited by Bluehighways; May 21, 2011 at 09:10 PM.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Bluehighways
Take a Digital Voltmeter ($5 DVOM from Radio Shack will work well enough) and put the Red lead on the Ground wires for the Speedometer at the speedometer, with the Black Lead on the Battery Ground Terminal. Select DC Volts and a range anywhere between 15 and 50 volts on the DVOM. At no time: Engine Off, Engine Cranking and Engine Running should you ever read more than 0.10 Volts. If you do read more than 0.10 Volts you have a bad ground circuit that is feeding back into other circuits that share the same ground terminal on the bike.

Also . . . get a wiring diagram for the bike. If you have to spring for a HD Service Manual do so. In the long run it will be an excellent investment; particularly if you intend on doing your own maintenance and light service work.

BTW an Ohmmeter will NOT find a bad ground wire or ground connection unless it is completely disconnected . . . and that is almost never the case.
I have a manual and wiring diagram, it's just not telling me what I need to know. The manual says that the speedo is bad if the odometer stays blank. I've never tried to look for partially grounded circuits. I've always used the ohmmeter, but what you're describing sounds like it makes sense. Electrical systems have always been a mystery to me. Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:58 AM
  #27  
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Four years ago when I was leaving a business, I had to make a U-turn and nailed it to keep in front of traffic. When I looked at the speedometer it wasn't working, neither was my tach or signals. My concern was if my brake light was still working. I rode it home and called the dealer, since it was still under warranty. When I rode it to the dealer everything worked again. They said they found a loose wire.
Three years later same thing happened. When I looked at the ignition I noticed that I had started it in the ACC mode. I would guess that's what I had done the first time also.
Tom
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck
I've looked at the grounds, haven't put an ohm meter on them yet. I think there is only the one relay, the 5 pronged one in the fuse block. Is there another I'm not aware of? I'm pretty sure the speedo head is toast. I've gotten far enough in the HD manual flow chart to see that the consistent lack of an odometer reading means a bad speedo. I'm looking for a used speedo and have a line on a 2008 one. I'm just not sure it will retrofit to the 2003. The plug looks about the same and the big diff is the 6th speed light. Maybe I'll find someone that knows for sure.
Thanks for the suggestions.
.... I know its a pain in the azzz ... but once you track this bicch down ... and fix it ... can you post back a post-mortem ... so we can see what you did and what was wrong and how you fixed it ... I've picked up a load of good procedures on this forum and fed some back too ... thanks and here is wishing you a lot of luck. While I am hoping its just a bad ground for you ... and we've seen a bunch of those ... I went through three after-market HD MOCO speedo heads on my 2010 Fatboy ... all three new ones bad from the factory ... I finally just settled with the problem and I live with a bad speedo ... I kept having nightmares about leaving my bike at the dealership ... too much risk of having them screw something else up or scratch up the bike. So ... what I'm saying is ... might be a bad speedo head ... stealerships usually have a dummy (not a teenager tech) around to plug in for diagnostics ... I hate stepping into a dealership .. but maybe if you can hand them yours ... they might loan you theirs to plug in right in front of them ... offer to buy one if yours is indeed bad ...
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cpiad
.... I know its a pain in the azzz ... but once you track this bicch down ... and fix it ... can you post back a post-mortem ... so we can see what you did and what was wrong and how you fixed it ... I've picked up a load of good procedures on this forum and fed some back too ... thanks and here is wishing you a lot of luck. While I am hoping its just a bad ground for you ... and we've seen a bunch of those ... I went through three after-market HD MOCO speedo heads on my 2010 Fatboy ... all three new ones bad from the factory ... I finally just settled with the problem and I live with a bad speedo ... I kept having nightmares about leaving my bike at the dealership ... too much risk of having them screw something else up or scratch up the bike. So ... what I'm saying is ... might be a bad speedo head ... stealerships usually have a dummy (not a teenager tech) around to plug in for diagnostics ... I hate stepping into a dealership .. but maybe if you can hand them yours ... they might loan you theirs to plug in right in front of them ... offer to buy one if yours is indeed bad ...
I will. I've gotten a lot of good ideas on this problem. I'm going back in a few minutes with the meter to check grounds per above suggestion. By swapping the speedo around and the switch I;ve pretty much figured out that the speedo itself is no good, but the switch is OK. Just a matter now of figuring out why either switch will let the bike run in ACC on the NT, but neither will on the Heritage Spr.

I'll post the solution when I get it.
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #30  
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Update: Here's what I know as of now. The original problems were with the 2003 Night Train, no speedo or odometer and bike will start and run in both IGN and ACC positions.

In the same garage we have a 2002 Heritage Springer which has a good speedo and switch. By switching parts around we find that the Springer speedo works in both bikes, but the Night Train speedo doesn't work in either bike. I think the speedo head is defective unless there is a fuse or some part of the speedo itself that is serviceable that I'm not aware of. The switches are a slightly different story. Both switches work as per normal in the Springer, both allow the bike to start and run in IGN and ACC on the NT. I think the switches are fine but there is a wiring glitch downstream from the switch on the NT. The two grounding positions near the back of the tank appear good. Does anyone know if there is another one to the front of the bike between the front of the speedo nacelle and the forks?

My plan is to buy another speedo head and keep looking for the wiring problem. Anyone have a good speedo for a 99-03 Softail or Road King they want to sell?
 
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