What do you think of these Heritage dyno numbers?
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: New Jersey
What do you think of these 2012 Heritage dyno numbers?
Just got the bike back today -- won't run it till tomorrow, but wanted to post the dyno results. 2012 Heritage with Pro Tuner, stock 103" and Stage 1 with V&H BSS pipes. Torque: 93; HP: 78. Does that sound about right to you guys? I thought the HP may be a tad low, but my goal was low- and mid-range torque anyway.
Last edited by MikeZ; Dec 3, 2011 at 07:20 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: New Jersey
Thanks for the reply -- it seems as if I'm in the ballpark. I know there's a dyno "sticky" in this section, but most of the posts contain more significant modifications than I did.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: New Hampshire
You will not change the location of the torque along the RPM range without a cam change. The overall torque and HP should be increased by the free flowing air intake and exhaust as you have seen.
Remember the ideal goal is a one for one for one, CubicInch = Torque = HorsePower. The torque is well on the way to 103 and a cam will most likely get you there. The horse power is way to low. I do not know a lot about the heads on the 2012 103's may be others could chime in on this.
Remember the ideal goal is a one for one for one, CubicInch = Torque = HorsePower. The torque is well on the way to 103 and a cam will most likely get you there. The horse power is way to low. I do not know a lot about the heads on the 2012 103's may be others could chime in on this.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Just got the bike back today -- won't run it till tomorrow, but wanted to post the dyno results. 2012 Heritage with Pro Tuner, stock 103" and Stage 1 with V&H BSS pipes. Torque: 93; HP: 78. Does that sound about right to you guys? I thought the HP may be a tad low, but my goal was low- and mid-range torque anyway.
First, it'd be nice to actually post the sheet, then we could see where the lines are.
Haven't seen a stock -103, stage1 -103, or even one thats had stg1 and cams YET. So I really like to see Ur sheets.
Also do U know we have a Thread just for members to post their Sheets here in the softail Section of the forum.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...-softails.html
So it'd be great if U could put them in there also.
If U got 93Tq/78Hp that's really pretty good without cams.
Son and I have bought 4 new bikes with 96'ers since 07 and done Stg1 and cams and all 4 of them made betweeen 92-95#'s of TQ and 78-81Hp..
All of them was with the SERT or SEProT and dynoed.
Don't even worry bout the HP. Its the TQ that U want. U get the TQ and Ur HP will follow.
To get the new 103 really shine, U'll have to change cams just like all the rest of us did.
The son and I have used
(HIS Bikes) SE 204's in his 07 Deuce & 09 NT, now in his 10 Street Glide he went with S&S 551's.
(IN MINE) Andrews 26H's.
U'r 103 is making good number's now but if and when U get those stock EPA cams out of her U'll really see the diff.
She'll run a lot stronger, Cooler and get better fuel mileage.
With cams and a good tune U should see 100-102TQ and mid 80's HP easy and with the right cams for good low-mid RPMS U'll get a lot more low end TQ in the 2k-4K rpms 15%-20% more over the stock cams, pre STG1.
Have fun and enjoy Ur bike, we love our Heritage.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
That's fine, but the dyno thread is to show what our motors are getting,.
LOTs of us want to know what the new 103's are getting.
So don't worry bout what U've done, I'd like to see a stock new 103 sheet and one that's had just STG 1..
Believe me, that's all (STG1) is all a LOT of member in here ever do to there bike, so the ones that's still stock wonder what the STG1 will do to their bikes.
So go ahead and post Ur sheets, I am sure they will be welcomed..
Last edited by oct1949; Dec 3, 2011 at 10:59 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 33
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From: Beaumont
Thanks for sharing your info and hope to see your dyno sheet posted.
I am doing a similar build, 2012 Heritage 103 SE AC, V&H Bigshots and SERT but wont pick up until the end of the week. Thought about adding SE 255's but the stealer wanted way too much for the install, I can add them later myself and give me a chance to work with the tuning software.
I'll post the dyno sheet this weekend, the dealer is doing the install and the tune so it would be interesting to see what kind of job they do if I have something to compare to.
Most of the kits have 10.5 to 1 CR but the specs have the stock engines at 9.6 to 1 so it would be really great to see some numbers from a similar motor and not a 96"-103" conversion kit.
I am doing a similar build, 2012 Heritage 103 SE AC, V&H Bigshots and SERT but wont pick up until the end of the week. Thought about adding SE 255's but the stealer wanted way too much for the install, I can add them later myself and give me a chance to work with the tuning software.
I'll post the dyno sheet this weekend, the dealer is doing the install and the tune so it would be interesting to see what kind of job they do if I have something to compare to.
Most of the kits have 10.5 to 1 CR but the specs have the stock engines at 9.6 to 1 so it would be really great to see some numbers from a similar motor and not a 96"-103" conversion kit.
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Road Captain
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From: SE Michigan
Saw your sheet. STD smoothing. That usually yields about 1-3% higher numbers than more common and accurate SAE correction factor. I personally think a lot of tuners do that for customers that they think wont know the difference so they can show higher numbers.
For those that don't know what the smoothing factor is all about, i'll lay it out for you real quick without getting into much detail. The correction factors mathematically change the atmosheric run conditions (Temp, humidity, etc.) so all runs are on an even basis, for more accurate comparison. So if you want to compare a bike that was tuned in Denver in dec to one that is tuned in New York in August. SAE and STD correct to differn't atmoshperic conditions, STD reads higher. The reason why I am always suspicious about tuners that print in STD is that 1: they either don't know what the industry standard is or 2: they are wanting to show higher numbers so to make their shop look better.
In the OP's case, after looking at his sheet in the dyno thread, I would suspect that his "tuner" falls into the #1 catagory lol. Those lines look awful to me, and there is no way I would ever let a sheet that looks that bad out of our shop. It looks like the tuner might have the A/F halfway decent (kind've hard to tell because he has it scaled down so much, another "trick" to make a shop look better). As "choppy" as those lines look I would guess that the timing is way off, advancing the timing some would really smooth those lines out and probably gain him some performance.