Can primed bags be canned?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2011
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Can primed bags be canned?
What's holding me back atm in pulling the trigger on hard bags is how the hell am I going to get them painted. As a few know here I just went through hell getting a local painter for the new tins. Cavalry sells a primed set of saddlebags. If it's that easy using a can, I just may do it. So if so, how many coats will do the trick? I understand that each coat should be applied in an opposite cross hatch at 8 to 10" away with lots of shaking.
Btw this one of the reasons why my rear fender is still not on...still on the fence on to bag or not to bag. If hard bags...I want to relocate the signals to flush mount. Such as Cycle Visions...
Also I quickly photoshoppped a cavalry bag. Probably go smooth not ribbed if this plan works out.
Btw this one of the reasons why my rear fender is still not on...still on the fence on to bag or not to bag. If hard bags...I want to relocate the signals to flush mount. Such as Cycle Visions...
Also I quickly photoshoppped a cavalry bag. Probably go smooth not ribbed if this plan works out.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
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From: Boston, MA
A guy n the paint forum gave me great advice. Put the cans in hot water and make sure the spray nozzles are clean and free flowing.
Paint is the same paint whether it is in a rattle can, HVLP gun or pro downdraft system. It's all in the nozzle flow, prep and aftercare.
Paint is the same paint whether it is in a rattle can, HVLP gun or pro downdraft system. It's all in the nozzle flow, prep and aftercare.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
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From: Centennial, CO
Originally Posted by Tee⋁9951667
A guy n the paint forum gave me great advice. Put the cans in hot water and make sure the spray nozzles are clean and free flowing.
Paint is the same paint whether it is in a rattle can, HVLP gun or pro downdraft system. It's all in the nozzle flow, prep and aftercare.
Paint is the same paint whether it is in a rattle can, HVLP gun or pro downdraft system. It's all in the nozzle flow, prep and aftercare.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2011
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Indeed.
I just spent a couple hours reading up on this. Lot of different opinions and ways.
Even read a couple pissed off at quality and ended up spraying themselves with a better result.
If Calvary says it's ready to spray...then hell why not try it. If it doesn't hold up or go well. I am out a few cans and time....but a learning experience.
I just spent a couple hours reading up on this. Lot of different opinions and ways.
Even read a couple pissed off at quality and ended up spraying themselves with a better result.
If Calvary says it's ready to spray...then hell why not try it. If it doesn't hold up or go well. I am out a few cans and time....but a learning experience.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
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From: Republic of Texas
Just make sure you use the same paint as the primer as in urethane, enamel etc. Wipe down the surface with a clean tack cloth or a non shedding rag with mineral spirits. Apply a couple of mist coats, while still tacky apply a wet coat then let the paint become tacky and apply a second wet coat overlapping your passes by about half the width of the spray pattern and maintaining the same distance from the workpiece. After the paint has completely cured you can wetsand it using 1500, 1800 then finishing off with 2000 grit. Make sure you keep the paper and paint wet. I like to use a spray bottle when I wet sand. Then you are ready to apply several coats of clear and repeat the wet sanding steps. After the final wet sanding you are ready for the buffing and polishing because the wet sanding will leave the clear coat dull. Using an electric polisher with a wool or foam polishing pad keep the polisher moving or you will burn through the paint. Taking your time will result in a perfect paint job that is smooth as glass.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 920
Likes: 4
From: Western Wa.
Not trying to **** anyone off but paint in a rattle can is not the same as automotive paint. Once it is applied automotive paint (basecoat/clearcoat or anything with a hardner) cant be applied over it. Also painting fiberglass is a whole different game. As a former bodyman of 25 years I would be happy to help anyway I can. Please dont take my post as anything but trying to save someone a headache. Mark
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 7
Great info!!!
FYI the can of spray is pretty much a dead match when completely dry. I still need a clear coat for it? And if Calvary says the primed bags are good to go for spraying...I should still wet sand it?
FYI the can of spray is pretty much a dead match when completely dry. I still need a clear coat for it? And if Calvary says the primed bags are good to go for spraying...I should still wet sand it?
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Stellar HDF Member
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