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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #11  
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SprungDave
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Pinning the bars in the risers is necessary no matter what risers you use with tall apes. It is a 10 minute easy job. I just did it a couple weeks ago for my huge beach bars. As far as riser clamp bolt stripping, that is a H-D thing, as the risers are made out of a mixture of metal and tissue paper.

Putting in thread repair coils was also an easy and inexpensive task. I did that to my risers when I pinned them. Took all of a half-hour to do all four threads (and I took my time). Now that it is done these are really strong (as they should have been from the factory). $10 for the "heli-coils", $1 for the roll pin. Much cheaper than replacing the risers.

In the end, it's your bike. Just want you to have all available options to consider....
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #12  
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dhla40
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Originally Posted by SprungDave
Pinning the bars in the risers is necessary no matter what risers you use with tall apes. It is a 10 minute easy job. I just did it a couple weeks ago for my huge beach bars. As far as riser clamp bolt stripping, that is a H-D thing, as the risers are made out of a mixture of metal and tissue paper.
The heli-coils are no biggie, but talk to me about pinning the bars in the risers. How is that done? Thanks,

--jack
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 05:20 PM
  #13  
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Redbeard719
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Originally Posted by dhla40
Thanks for the pics, it does look nice. It looks like it also moves the risers about 1/2" or so closer too. What kind of bars are those?

--jack
The risers move closer together, yes. They allow you to utilize standard risers.

The bars are LA Choppers Nice Curvers, 1.25'' dia, 16'' tall. They might be 8-10'' across the bottom. With this set up, I am not close to hitting my tank at full lock, but that is with the FL springer, not an FX.

Originally Posted by SprungDave
Pinning the bars in the risers is necessary no matter what risers you use with tall apes. It is a 10 minute easy job. I just did it a couple weeks ago for my huge beach bars. As far as riser clamp bolt stripping, that is a H-D thing, as the risers are made out of a mixture of metal and tissue paper.

Putting in thread repair coils was also an easy and inexpensive task. I did that to my risers when I pinned them. Took all of a half-hour to do all four threads (and I took my time). Now that it is done these are really strong (as they should have been from the factory). $10 for the "heli-coils", $1 for the roll pin. Much cheaper than replacing the risers.

In the end, it's your bike. Just want you to have all available options to consider....
I think if you move to a one piece top clamp, pinning isn't necessary. I've done apes on several bikes, including both of mine now. With the one piece clamp, there is a proper method to torque the bolts, and I haven't a millimeter of slippage.


Originally Posted by dhla40
The heli-coils are no biggie, but talk to me about pinning the bars in the risers. How is that done? Thanks,

--jack
Pinning the bars involves drilling a hole in the upper riser clamp, and a hole in the handlebars too. These holes MUST line up, so getting the angle correct is critical. Once the hole is drilled, it's as simple as inserting a roll pin into both the riser clamp and the bars, preventing them from rolling forwards or backwards.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Redbeard719
The risers move closer together, yes. They allow you to utilize standard risers.
I meant closer to the rider, but I get that the risers are closer to each other.

Originally Posted by Redbeard719
The bars are LA Choppers Nice Curvers, 1.25'' dia, 16'' tall. They might be 8-10'' across the bottom. With this set up, I am not close to hitting my tank at full lock, but that is with the FL springer, not an FX.
They look nice. I saw the pics in the other thread too, really nice looking bike. I think the Todd's Cycle 18" strip bars are going to be just fine on a 2" riser.

Originally Posted by Redbeard719
Pinning the bars involves drilling a hole in the upper riser clamp, and a hole in the handlebars too. These holes MUST line up, so getting the angle correct is critical. Once the hole is drilled, it's as simple as inserting a roll pin into both the riser clamp and the bars, preventing them from rolling forwards or backwards.
Got it, thanks.

--jack
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #15  
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rlowride
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How hard are those adapter plates to put on? Is it just a time thing?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dhla40
I meant closer to the rider, but I get that the risers are closer to each other.



They look nice. I saw the pics in the other thread too, really nice looking bike. I think the Todd's Cycle 18" strip bars are going to be just fine on a 2" riser.



Got it, thanks.

--jack
D'oh! Yup, the move the risers back just a little. Maybe .5" to .75".

Originally Posted by rlowride
How hard are those adapter plates to put on? Is it just a time thing?
Plates are easy. Remove the center acorn nut, remove the risers, and remove the pinch bolt. Install is the same steps, in reverse order. Nothing tricky at all.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #17  
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IrIeSpringer420
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i know this is a old post but when i was looking for new risers i had a pain looking up the info i needed so ill update ... i just put on wild 1 stubby chubby risers on my 06 softail springer and ill tell you the look great! they clear the tank well being a 2 in riser. so there it is and hope this helps when someone starts looking up info.
 
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