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cwsharp, I guess I can see your piont, Due to my line of work, I guess it would not be my first time tearing into an engine, and using what I have laying around, a garage to work in with all the tools I need is a huge step up from what I am faced with every day. Yes you are putting a bearing into an aluminum case, and Light taps making sure the bearing is going in straight is essential. I guess anyone that is thinking of doing this sort of thing should truly be serious with themselves about their skill level, and the risk they are willing to take. I get paid to do it every day on equipment that is work millions. So when I am home and working on the bike, or truck, it is not a big deal.
I have tones of specialty tools that I may use once a yr. So I do support buying the right tool for the job. But in my eyes a blind bearing puller, which I have, and bearing drivers and hammer, which I have will do the job just as good.
If you do go the route of using bearing driver and hammer I strongly suggest making sure you do not drive the bearing in too deep into the case.
Actually looking at differnt tools I will probably just buy them, if I had access to some I would probably make my own with some help from a few guys who r in tool and die. But has anyone used Georges Garage tools? Seem to b same thing but a bit cheaper than heartland.. havnt checked ebay yet just. The heartland store on Amazon ...
cwsharp, I guess I can see your piont, Due to my line of work, I guess it would not be my first time tearing into an engine, and using what I have laying around, a garage to work in with all the tools I need is a huge step up from what I am faced with every day. Yes you are putting a bearing into an aluminum case, and Light taps making sure the bearing is going in straight is essential. I guess anyone that is thinking of doing this sort of thing should truly be serious with themselves about their skill level, and the risk they are willing to take. I get paid to do it every day on equipment that is work millions. So when I am home and working on the bike, or truck, it is not a big deal.
I have tones of specialty tools that I may use once a yr. So I do support buying the right tool for the job. But in my eyes a blind bearing puller, which I have, and bearing drivers and hammer, which I have will do the job just as good.
If you do go the route of using bearing driver and hammer I strongly suggest making sure you do not drive the bearing in too deep into the case.
Like you, I do this crap for a living. Having never tore into a harley motor before, I got the Heartland set up. It was super easy with the Heartland tools. After doing the work I could have handled it with a pilot bearing puller and my bushing driver set. Glad to have the right tools though.
2003Custom1200 there is a really good write up with photos on a cam swap https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-write-up.html The fuelmoto video on the 107 is good too. Having a factory service manual at your side is a good idea too, 60 bucks saves a ton in missinformation and frustration. Harley's manuals are written well enough that most people can understand them and they are pretty well illustrated too. I don't work on mine without it.
Thanks guys.. already have the manual, and I work on cars and atvs. Sleds etc as my hobby... passion.. so not afraid to tear into things, also am a maintenance technical in a factory, after working in auto repair shop for 5 years...
Gonna order the heartland tools off ebay along with the cam locking tool
I have the Heartland tools, here, too. Got them off eBay, no problems. They do the job pretty well. I did have a problem getting the puller tool to go thru the bearing, tho, and thought they sent me the wrong size tool at first. It's supposed to go in with just the the tap of a hammer, but no matter how I tried, it wouldn't go in and I was just mangling the head of the puller. I ended up compressing the splines of the puller a bit with vice and then I didn't have a problem. I emailed them about the problem and hopefully they've fixed it (i.e. send them out precompressed, now). They were very helpful, tho, and answered every email I sent.
I assume you're going with the roller chain at least on the outside. You will need the cam locking tool for the new gears too as they are different (bigger) and the silent chain lock tool won't fit for when you put it back together.
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