Cam cover torque specs
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Florida
Cam cover torque specs
I'm sure this question has been asked a billion times and I did a search but couldn't find the answer... So, please excuse me.
I'm about to change my stock cam cover for a chrome one and I need to find out the torque specs for the cam cover bolts... (No, not talking about the timing cover.)
Do I need to remove the forwardexhaust? I have the after market Hooker "Trouble makers"... So I wasn't sure if maybe there was enough clearance since it's not the stock exhaust?
Thanks for your help.
I'm about to change my stock cam cover for a chrome one and I need to find out the torque specs for the cam cover bolts... (No, not talking about the timing cover.)
Do I need to remove the forwardexhaust? I have the after market Hooker "Trouble makers"... So I wasn't sure if maybe there was enough clearance since it's not the stock exhaust?
Thanks for your help.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
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RE: Cam cover torque specs
According to the service manual, which I happen to have sitting next to me, they should be tightened to 125-155 in-lbs or 14.1-17.5 nm. However, the manual also calls out for a sequence in which the screws should be tightened. Starting at the top left and going clockwise, here is the order: 1, 7, 6, 4, 10, 8, 2, 3, 5, 9.
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Stage I
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 1
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From: Los Angeles
Low side of torque specs.
I was wondering why it is important to tighten the bolts to the low side of the specs. I just changed all of the bolts on my evo 88 cam cover and tightened them to the maximum. Should I take them out and re-torque them? If so, why?
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
There has been talk about the cam plate and cam cover specs being a little high. I am not sure what exactly the current consensus is.
Make sure those holes are clean and dry. The concern is oil getting hot and expanding. I wouldn't own a harley without own a manual for it.
Make sure those holes are clean and dry. The concern is oil getting hot and expanding. I wouldn't own a harley without own a manual for it.
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From: san antonio
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The fasteners at the positioning dowels have been know to strip which is why torquing to the low end of the spec is recommended; 130 in.lb. should do it. No need to take them out and re-torque. The more times those fasteners are R/Rd, the more likely for stripping. Back in the day on the Twin Cams, many replaced the questionable fastener with studs.
I always change the cam plate dowel screws to studs whenever I remove a cam plate. I never had an issue with cam chest cover bolts... I might just be lucky..
Their can be quite a debate on the torque spec range. I have heard different arguments about what it stands for, how to interpret it, and how to use it.
For my part, I have a set of expensive, very good quality torque wrenches that all came with calibration certificates. But I rarely retest them. Even their calibration cards show a plus/minus factor to their accuracy.
I always chase (clean) all threads on anything I disassemble, before reassembly. I start with clean, dry fasteners and thread holes.
On clean, dry fasteners, I always shoot for just below the top spec. (ie: top spec 120, I set torque wrench at 115)
If they call for lock-tite, I will usually go mid spec.
If they call for anti-seize,, I will reduce the max torque by 25%
On critical torque applications like head bolts, I will follow the manual's (or for non-OEM head gaskets, the gasket maker's) recommendations exactly. This include thread prep, torque progression, and/or finishing angles if applicable.
As much as I am a proponent of proper torque, I do not torque my oil/trans/primary drain plugs. I had a friend strip one with a torque wrench. While I was not present to see what/how he did that, it was a pain to fix... now I use good old fashion "feel" for those.
An interesting note:
My '01 & '03 Softail, as well as my '12 Touring Factory Service Manuals call for the cam cover screw torque as 90-120 in. lbs.
Yet my '16 Touring and '16 Dyna Factory Service Manuals call for the cam cover screw torque as 125-155 in. lbs.
I believe they are the same fasteners, same threads, same gaskets....I never before noticed, nor heard why, there was a change...
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 15, 2024 at 09:38 AM.