need some cam advice
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Amelia, Ohio
The first thing to do is pull the cam chest cover off and look at the tensioners, I'll bet there worn out of spec. Then you can decide witch way to go.
You can check runout after you pull the cam plate and cams from the chest, replace the inner bearings no matter what you decide to do about cams.
I'v installed a lot of S&S 510G.s, no need for adjustable push rod's,(unless you just like adjusting them every now and again).
You'll need to get some tools to do the job, cam chain tensioner tool = $40.00, cam locking tool = $35.00, camshaft removal & insallation tool = $130.00, inner cam bearing removal tool = $120.00, inner cam bearing installation tool = $180.00, and a gasket kit, and the cams you like, a guess of about $800.00
I dont know if this help or not.
I guess IMO go with the S&S 510G's, you'll nover have to get in the lower end again(unless you want to do something else, like bump it up to big inchs then you'll need more cam)
You can check runout after you pull the cam plate and cams from the chest, replace the inner bearings no matter what you decide to do about cams.
I'v installed a lot of S&S 510G.s, no need for adjustable push rod's,(unless you just like adjusting them every now and again).
You'll need to get some tools to do the job, cam chain tensioner tool = $40.00, cam locking tool = $35.00, camshaft removal & insallation tool = $130.00, inner cam bearing removal tool = $120.00, inner cam bearing installation tool = $180.00, and a gasket kit, and the cams you like, a guess of about $800.00
I dont know if this help or not.
I guess IMO go with the S&S 510G's, you'll nover have to get in the lower end again(unless you want to do something else, like bump it up to big inchs then you'll need more cam)
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Fl
Thanks to everyone for your responses. In response to the "do I really ride within the 3000-5500 range?", I stand corrected if those mph's per gear you gave are accurate. I don't have a tach on my bike so I was "guessing". It's lower than that I guess. I ride solo 75% of the time, 50/50 highway city as it's easy to hop on either one where I live.
Anyway I've decided on Andrews 26's and upgrading the cam chain tensioners to hydraulic. I'll be replacing the lifters for new ones and all the bearings as well. I don't want adjustable pushrods as I plan on staying with my 88", but should I replace the current ones with new ones?
About the roller chain conversion... Would this be the better option rather than just replacing the tensioners?
Thanks guys. And sorry for being a "newbie", that term to me is pretty effin silly seeing as everyone's got to learn sometime...
Anyway I've decided on Andrews 26's and upgrading the cam chain tensioners to hydraulic. I'll be replacing the lifters for new ones and all the bearings as well. I don't want adjustable pushrods as I plan on staying with my 88", but should I replace the current ones with new ones?
About the roller chain conversion... Would this be the better option rather than just replacing the tensioners?
Thanks guys. And sorry for being a "newbie", that term to me is pretty effin silly seeing as everyone's got to learn sometime...
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
Thanks to everyone for your responses. In response to the "do I really ride within the 3000-5500 range?", I stand corrected if those mph's per gear you gave are accurate. I don't have a tach on my bike so I was "guessing". It's lower than that I guess. I ride solo 75% of the time, 50/50 highway city as it's easy to hop on either one where I live.
Anyway I've decided on Andrews 26's and upgrading the cam chain tensioners to hydraulic. I'll be replacing the lifters for new ones and all the bearings as well. I don't want adjustable pushrods as I plan on staying with my 88", but should I replace the current ones with new ones?
About the roller chain conversion... Would this be the better option rather than just replacing the tensioners?
Thanks guys. And sorry for being a "newbie", that term to me is pretty effin silly seeing as everyone's got to learn sometime...
Anyway I've decided on Andrews 26's and upgrading the cam chain tensioners to hydraulic. I'll be replacing the lifters for new ones and all the bearings as well. I don't want adjustable pushrods as I plan on staying with my 88", but should I replace the current ones with new ones?
About the roller chain conversion... Would this be the better option rather than just replacing the tensioners?
Thanks guys. And sorry for being a "newbie", that term to me is pretty effin silly seeing as everyone's got to learn sometime...
The 26s have been reviewed well.
As for moving to hydraulic tensioners, you can't just put them on your existing cam support plate. Other upgrades are required for that.
The SE kit allows for hydraulic tensioners, but retains the problematic Morse link chain for the secondary cam chain. This chain is the one that causes more wear. Swapping to a 06 Dyna + or 07 Softail + cam support plate will allow you to run roller chains front and back and hydraulic tensioners.
If you want to retain stock pushrods, you'll need to pull the tank, rocker covers, rockers, etc to go in from the top.
If you want to get the most of your money, the full upgrade, not the half-assed SE kit is the way to go.
If you do go with the full upgrade, you need conversion cams. .875" inner bearing journal and 1" outer bearing journal.
For Andrews, this would be the 26N.
If you go with the SE kit, you would want the TW-26.
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