Confirm cable route?
Hi all. Replaced my clutch cable on my 08 Fatboy with a Diamond back braided unit. Before I removed the old cable I took many pictures of the cable route and also measured the new and old cable to confirm correct length. However, the cable appears a bit short. It could be that the cable is just stiff, I don't know.
Need to confirm the cable route. From the tranny side cover, I have the cable running under the right engine case (just about touching), then under the forward engine mount where it gets zip tied to the right downtube. From there it "crisscrosses" to the upper left downtube where it goes through a plastic ring, then up and behind the left bar, and finally up and over the top of the handlebar to the clutch handle.
Does that sound correct?
Need to confirm the cable route. From the tranny side cover, I have the cable running under the right engine case (just about touching), then under the forward engine mount where it gets zip tied to the right downtube. From there it "crisscrosses" to the upper left downtube where it goes through a plastic ring, then up and behind the left bar, and finally up and over the top of the handlebar to the clutch handle.
Does that sound correct?
So, if I understand you correctly, your clutch cable goes over the top of the frame and then down the right side?
That's the way my clutch cable is routed. Be curious to learn why you're finding the new cable to be too short. Even if the new cable was a bit shorter or stiffer, surely there was enough slack in the stock one to allow for the difference. Or maybe not.
Is the housing to short or the cable itself? I read somewhere that harley stock cables come with way more slack in them than actually needed and aftermarket manufacturers like Barnetts shortens the inner cable to give a broader range of adjustment.
So, if it is the inner cable to short, which would appear as not being able to get the housing into the clutch perch, then you can loosen the clutch adjustment in the primary to get it to work.
I almost had to do this with my barnett but was able to pull hard enough to get it to slide in, but barely.
So, if it is the inner cable to short, which would appear as not being able to get the housing into the clutch perch, then you can loosen the clutch adjustment in the primary to get it to work.
I almost had to do this with my barnett but was able to pull hard enough to get it to slide in, but barely.
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The only real difference I found is the new cable adjuster is lower on the cable. Where the adjuster on the old cable fell right at the holder ring on the frame, the new cable's adjuster in below the ring.
I don't think it is too short pre-say, but the cable does not seat perfectly to the clutch bracket. When I pull in the clutch the cable them moves back into position. The new cable measured out at 62.5+, the same as the old. Since it was not fitting perfectly I was worried I somehow routed the cable incorrectly and added some extra distance.
The only real difference I found is the new cable adjuster is lower on the cable. Where the adjuster on the old cable fell right at the holder ring on the frame, the new cable's adjuster in below the ring.
The only real difference I found is the new cable adjuster is lower on the cable. Where the adjuster on the old cable fell right at the holder ring on the frame, the new cable's adjuster in below the ring.
Did your stock cable go over your bars on the outside?. It may be due to the design of our new bars but our cables are routed to the outside.
Not really sure what could be your problem. Just throwing ideas out.
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ConeMagnet
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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Sep 3, 2014 07:54 PM



