Well, it may be a little late, but I'll offer my thoughts:

I have just a little over 2200 miles on my build (see sig) so far, so I will say right away that I wish I'd had a little more time to ride the bike and put some miles on her before addressing these questions, but anyway... displacement + compression = power + heat. Like Sgt Jim, I was looking at a cam to tame the compression and put the power band where I want it. I chose the feuling 574s for their 45 degree intake close (among other reasons), which puts my dynamic compression at around 9.5:1 with 0.030" head gaskets and an 84cc combustion chamber. Ccp = 195 at each cylinder. So far, this combination runs with oil temps of 195-215 degrees on 40-50 degree days, and 220-235 degrees on 60-80 degree days (mostly depending on how aggressive I've been on the throttle in the last 2 miles). These are not stock cylinders bored out. My cylinders have thicker walls at this bore than stock cylinders do at stock bore. I've never seen it top 240 while cruising down the road. After sitting in traffic for more than 5-6 minutes, however, the oil temp can quickly reach 270 degrees. I am not convinced an oil cooler is the solution to this problem. One solution would have been to increase combustion chamber size, reducing compression, but what fun would that have been?

I believe the solution (believe, because I have not tried it yet) is a parade duty fan by JIMS which mounts on the horn bracket and, according to their literature, has been shown to lower temperatures at the cylinder head by as much as 100 degrees after half an hour in stop-and-go traffic in a comparable motor without the fan. Even if the results are a bit exaggerated, I believe this to be the solution because the issue is temperatures at the cylinder head, which is where the oil acquires (most of) its heat in the first place. Any air that can be forced over those heads, even while stopped, has to be beneficial and at least delay, if not prevent, overheating. I believe it is a better approach to the problem to drop temperatures at the head, which will result in lower oil temperatures, than to try to keep your oil cool, while it continuously flows over 270+ degree heads....

As for compression releases... this is entirely dependent upon your riding style. From operating temperature, your motor, once stopped, cools down fairly quickly (at least my motor does). If you ride to a destination, enjoy yourself for a while with friends, then ride home, you won't need compression releases. If you do a lot of riding with brief stops, where you're constantly re-starting a motor you've just shut down three minutes before, then you might wish you had compression releases. I will agree that they are cheap insurance. How likely do I think I will ever wish I had taken out that policy with 195ccp? Not very. Again, the question is, how do you ride?

I hope this has been helpful to you, and not tedious or pedantic.

 

Well after studying and looking around I think I'm going to just start with a stage 1 and a set of cams. I've had recommendations but what do y'all say.

 

I say: it's your bike, and you are the one who gets to ride it and decide what happens to it, and what you want matters most.

That being said, the question is, what do you want? Do you want one of the meanest machines you're likely to encounter on the street (there will always be someone with more), that can pass nearly anything it encounters effortlessly, with plenty of throttle to spare? (this is possible while still maintaining reasonable gas mileage. If I cruise at a steady 65-70mph, I achieve 45mpg. If I get a little "throttle-happy," it can drop to about 35mpg or so)

You clearly seem to be looking for more power than you have. A stage I with pipes, cams, and a tune is without question the most bang-for-the-buck. One thing is certain: there is no shortage of options...

I don't expect that was helpful, but I feel like more information is needed to meaningfully contribute... What platform are you starting with, and what end result would you like?

 

Starting with a stock deluxe. do a good bit of 2up riding so I want the extra trq for that. And I like to be aggressive at times too esp when 1up. Probably be satisfied for the time being with anything close to 100trq around 90hp in the low and mid range.

 

In that case, the only question left is what year is that deluxe? Does it have a 96" or a 103" engine?

In either case, what you're asking for can easily be achieved with a stage I, pipes and cams, no head work needed. All of these are to personal tastes. You have said you want your power in the low and mid-range. This is where the cam selection comes in. I have noticed as I cruise down the road that the engine is typically spinning between 2200-2400 RPM, so I want my power to "come on" right around there. Most folks seem to like their power to start as close to idle as possible, it seems. If you want your power down low, there are options for you: Andrews 21 or 26, S&S 551, Screamin Eagle 255 and others...

If, like me, you want your power to start once you're already cruising and stay on from there until you shift or hit redline, whichever comes first, then there are more options for you: Andrews 37, 50, 54, 55, or 57; S&S 510, 570, or 585; Feuling 525, 543, or 574; Woods W6; T-man 590 or 625...

If you're looking for someone to straight-out tell you what to do with your bike, I may not be that person. I am happy to point out what some of your options are based on what you want, though!

 

Actually, I just noticed that you said close to 100tq and 90hp in the low to mid range. You can easily get close to 100tq in the low to mid range, but 90hp will be tough to pull off in the same range. HP is a mathematical derivative of torque. HP= (Torque X RPM)/5252. This is why hp is always easier to achieve at higher RPM, and why the torque and hp lines (should) always cross at 5252RPM on the dyno graph. Anyway, 100tq low and mid is quite easy. You probably won't be pushing 90HP until about 5000RPM, however...

 

Looks like I'm going to pursue the andrews 48H, SE Heavy breather, some Vance and Hines big radius or staggered big shots and a tune to make it work.