Having a problem with my 02 Fatboy sputtering
Thread Starter
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
Having a problem with my 02 Fatboy sputtering
Been looking around the forum for an answer but haven't seen anyone with the same problem...she starts just fine with a full choke or half choke every morning, but once I turn the full choke off, she will sputter for about half a mile while I'm on the throttle and want to die when I reach a stop, unless I keep on the throttle a bit. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I need to start looking. She runs fine the rest of the day...if I start her with half a choke, I don't run into the sputtering problem...any help please!!!
Stage I
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Sputtering Fatboy
So I'm wondering why you don't just start at half throttle? I have had a 99' Fatboy for 8 years and I was told not to throttle at full choke. Never do and never had a problem at all with my bike, although mine has the Evo engine.
Cinnora
Cinnora
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
I'll try the plugs to start...
I barely figured out the half choke, but even then, I have to sit there keeping a hold on the throttle to make sure it doesn't die. I was never told to not start it with a full choke...I bought the bike used off of family...
I barely figured out the half choke, but even then, I have to sit there keeping a hold on the throttle to make sure it doesn't die. I was never told to not start it with a full choke...I bought the bike used off of family...
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,446
Likes: 1
From:
Intake leak or the sections of the carb responsible for the idle and off idle throttle positions are getting plugged up.
Not sure what you mean by sputtering, my suggestion is for coughing back thru the carb like a lean condition.
Not sure what you mean by sputtering, my suggestion is for coughing back thru the carb like a lean condition.
Last edited by chester1957; Jun 4, 2013 at 03:51 PM. Reason: added note.
Thread Starter
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, TX
The thing is that I don't think I'm running lean, I think I may be running rich...my pulgs are very sooty when I pull them off...but then again, I just had her re-jetted...and I'm not 100% sure how to adjust the carb...funny thing is though, when she's warm, it doesn't really sputter/backfire...and, once I get her to back fire once or twice, it all stops...
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 45
Sounds like its just cold. Carbed bikes need a few min to warm up, or yea it may cough and sputter till its warm.
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 686
Likes: 29
From: Niceville
I think either the bike is lean and/or an intake leak. I had a very similar condition that resulted from an intake leak at the carb to intake seal. If you have an intake air leak you will have a lean condition. The thing is that I don't think I'm running lean, I think I may be running rich...my pulgs are very sooty when I pull them off...but then again, I just had her re-jetted...and I'm not 100% sure how to adjust the carb...funny thing is though, when she's warm, it doesn't really sputter/backfire...and, once I get her to back fire once or twice, it all stops...
is not the same as not sputtering/backfiring. If it sputters or backfires there is an issue somewhere.
The carb is pretty easy to adjust for AF mixture and idle. Just get the service manual or look up the carb on line. Good luck.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 970
Likes: 19
From: Philippines
Phoenix79,
My recommendations (Prior to Disassembling the Carb) is to:
1. Once the bike is fully warmed up, re-adjust the Idle Mixture screw, then:
2. Re-adjust the Idle screw. Your TC 88 should idle between 900 - 1,100 rpms.
3. Run 2 or 3 tanks of fuel with an injector cleaner added. A quality fuel injector cleaner designed to be mixed with fuel can help clean your Carb.
If these recommendations don't solve your problem, it may be time to think about rebuilding the carb. My personal opinion is that if your CV Carb requires a rebuild, don't waste the time or money. Up-grade to a Mikuni 42.
My recommendations (Prior to Disassembling the Carb) is to:
1. Once the bike is fully warmed up, re-adjust the Idle Mixture screw, then:
2. Re-adjust the Idle screw. Your TC 88 should idle between 900 - 1,100 rpms.
3. Run 2 or 3 tanks of fuel with an injector cleaner added. A quality fuel injector cleaner designed to be mixed with fuel can help clean your Carb.
If these recommendations don't solve your problem, it may be time to think about rebuilding the carb. My personal opinion is that if your CV Carb requires a rebuild, don't waste the time or money. Up-grade to a Mikuni 42.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
There's nothing wrong with your bike. You quite obviously are not allowing the motor to warm and run smoothly before attempting to shut off the choke and attempt to drive away.
My bike would do the same thing if I didn't give the motor the time it needs to warm up to run smoothly before driving off.
The fact that you are trying to drive away on a cold motor that won't run smoothly could be a life or death situation.
Do not drive on the road until the bike has warmed up and is safe to put on the road without stalling or backfiring.
If you read through your first post you'd see that the answer is really simple ... Give your bike the time it needs for the motor to warm and run smoothly before trying to get on the road.
On my ride I set the choke at the half way point and twist the throttle 2 or 3 times to pump a few shots of gas directly into the carb from the accelerator pump. This allows it to fire and run instead of firing and stalling, or having to blip the throttle to keep it running.
Once started I push the choke in partially to keep the idle as smooth as possible. At this point as the motor warms the engine speed increases on it's own to indicate it's warm enough to ride, and is running smoothly because it's warmed up.
Full choke is something you use for only a second in the cold of winter. The object is to adjust the choke for the smoothest running idle when cold.
Often, even with the motor partially warmed, I will ride for a 1/2 mile or so with the choke slightly set to keep it from idling too low and stalling.
I would not tear into anything other than a fresh set of plugs. All you need to do is adjust your warm up process.
My bike would do the same thing if I didn't give the motor the time it needs to warm up to run smoothly before driving off.
The fact that you are trying to drive away on a cold motor that won't run smoothly could be a life or death situation.
Do not drive on the road until the bike has warmed up and is safe to put on the road without stalling or backfiring.
If you read through your first post you'd see that the answer is really simple ... Give your bike the time it needs for the motor to warm and run smoothly before trying to get on the road.
On my ride I set the choke at the half way point and twist the throttle 2 or 3 times to pump a few shots of gas directly into the carb from the accelerator pump. This allows it to fire and run instead of firing and stalling, or having to blip the throttle to keep it running.
Once started I push the choke in partially to keep the idle as smooth as possible. At this point as the motor warms the engine speed increases on it's own to indicate it's warm enough to ride, and is running smoothly because it's warmed up.
Full choke is something you use for only a second in the cold of winter. The object is to adjust the choke for the smoothest running idle when cold.
Often, even with the motor partially warmed, I will ride for a 1/2 mile or so with the choke slightly set to keep it from idling too low and stalling.
I would not tear into anything other than a fresh set of plugs. All you need to do is adjust your warm up process.
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