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Old Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:58 AM
  #2371  
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Originally Posted by Eckwitte
thanks for the help guys, I ordered this

http://www.cyclesounds.com/t-tap-pow...universal.html
I do not think that will work on your bike. I'm not sure where there is an 8 pin connector.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #2372  
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Originally Posted by NSR
I'm 6'4", 36" inseam, 255lbs, loooong arms. The Danny Grey seat will not give you any more room. In fact, you'll lose an inch or so. I have the "Buttcrack Solo". The DG seat is much better than the HD seat though. So its a tradeoff - you wind up sitting up further on the bike, but you're on a better seat.

I'm considering a set of EXILE forward controls....other mods are closer to the top of my list right now though. The riding position is fine - I'd rather get some other stuff done.

My .02 and ymmv.
Interesting- Did you buy the seat ready-made or have them make it for you? When I talked to them a couple weeks ago, they told me I could have it any way I wanted including sitting farther back / lower.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #2373  
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Originally Posted by sothai
OK, thanks for the clarification, but that is not plug and play, is it?

May sell it locally and wait for a visitor to bring me a Daymaker then.
You could just plug in the headlight portion at first without messing with the signals. That way you could decide if you like the light enough to do the work for the signals.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #2374  
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I did not find the Rivera Phase 3 light to be bright at all, at least in comparison to the Daymaker. There are no specs published but I'd say the Rivera is more like 2500 lumens vs the Daymaker at around 4500 lumens.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #2375  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog

Take off the front peg "feelers" by unscrewing them from the pegs, you'll stop scraping so easy in turns.
I could not agree more. Taking those stupid f'ing things off made me feel 10x better about putting this bike into a turn.

Hey LAD ... I'm losing track of your suspension mod threads. Have you done anything with the rear suspension yet? I'm wondering if the mods you've done to the front suspension would work well with a Shotgun Shock rear suspension.......
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #2376  
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Originally Posted by NSR
I could not agree more. Taking those stupid f'ing things off made me feel 10x better about putting this bike into a turn.

Hey LAD ... I'm losing track of your suspension mod threads. Have you done anything with the rear suspension yet? I'm wondering if the mods you've done to the front suspension would work well with a Shotgun Shock rear suspension.......
Yeh I think this week I'm going to create a new thread and put all of my mods, part numbers etc in one place.

I don't see why it wouldn't work fine. I did do some research into this since my next change will be the rear shock. Although, surprisingly, the rear stock shock works a lot better now that the front has been stiffened up and properly damped. But I want about an inch lower in the rear without reducing ride quality.

From what I gathered talking to Brian at Ricor, and a couple of the techs at Glendale HD (pretty knowledgeable guys there):

Brian at Ricor suggested the Works rear shocks. They give ability to drop ride height an inch or so. I'll probably go this route and get the ones with the outboard adjustable dampers.

HD techs I spoke with like either Works or Shotgun- I guess it really comes down to what you want. If you just want a good performing shock and set a lower ride height, Works will do fine. But if you want ability to raise / lower the bike as needed on top of that, then go with the Shotgun. Also with the Shotgun being an air suspension, it may have a bit of a plusher ride.

My suggestion would be to do the front first, since that is where you'll gain the most immediate benefit.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #2377  
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Originally Posted by 24v
You could just plug in the headlight portion at first without messing with the signals. That way you could decide if you like the light enough to do the work for the signals.
Well, as several people have now mentioned that they consider the lumens to be significantly higher on the DAymaker, I'll go for that, as that was the object of the exercise, plus, the Primo would be officially 2nd hand if I fitted it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:28 AM
  #2378  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
Interesting- Did you buy the seat ready-made or have them make it for you? When I talked to them a couple weeks ago, they told me I could have it any way I wanted including sitting farther back / lower.
I had the seat made to order. I wanted a diamond stitch pattern sewn into the seat. We did not talk about how the DG seating position compared to the HD seating position. The DG seat is a bit thinner, but since it kicks up at the back it moves you forward a bit. I suppose they could thin the foam down a bit more in order to move the rider back and down. I wonder how that would affect the final "comfort quotient" ... lol ...
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:29 AM
  #2379  
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I wouldn't call it second hand if you threw it in there one night just to see. Seems silly to buy something that requires one screw to install, and not install it because some people on a message board told you it wasn't bright enough. It should not take more than 5 minutes to install, and if it is not bright enough you could take it right back out and no one would ever know or care when you sold it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:36 AM
  #2380  
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Originally Posted by 24v
I wouldn't call it second hand if you threw it in there one night just to see. Seems silly to buy something that requires one screw to install, and not install it because some people on a message board told you it wasn't bright enough. It should not take more than 5 minutes to install, and if it is not bright enough you could take it right back out and no one would ever know or care when you sold it.
OK, maybe I will then. Anyone know if there is a smartphone app for measuring brightness?
 
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