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2T up on the rear is not quite as good as 1 or 2T down on the front, but definitely a step in the right direction- and the bonus would be keeping the same belt.
I'd agree this is a sensible compromise.
I myself can't do it, as my Turbine chrome wheels have a custom matching rear pulley.
You spend only $157 plus whatever the hardware costs, you avoid having to disassemble the primary, and you still get a 3% gearing improvement (2T/66T = 3%).
Your speedo will be off 3% though, unless you use PowerVision or some other tunnies to correct the gearing factor in the ECM.
More importantly, if equipped with ABS, your ABS system might not like the difference between the stock and the new relative rear and front wheel rpm, and declare an emergency. I actually had that happen on a Chevy SSR retro pickup truck when my buddy and I swapped the ECM when we added a (575 hp) supercharger kit that came with the pre-programmed ECM, and forgot to reprogram the gearing factor in the ECM to match the 4.54 gearing we had previously successfully installed. The ABS system and traction control system both went crazy and had to be disabled until we corrected the gearing factor.
Thanks Jim- As always, good and timely info. Yep I have the PV2 and can do the correction- also the PV2 lets you re-calc the gear ratios 1-6 so if there were any ABS errors it would be easy to self correct.
Thinking too- if I later on go 2T less in the front pulley, I could still probably use the same belt. and that would be a fantastic town-bike setup.
. . . Thinking too- if I later on go 2T less in the front pulley, I could still probably use the same belt. and that would be a fantastic town-bike setup.
Yeah, it would! I did a Ducati S4 Monster like that once - I changed virtually every piece on it to Carbon Fiber (including even the gas tank, headlight nacelle, and wheels), got the weight down to 375 lb, and stiffened the gearing (higher revs/mile) by 13%. 105 rwhp in a 375 lb bike with still only 4200 rpm at 60 mph (it was a 10,500 rpm engine). Total rocketship! Ultra responsive! Like riding a firecracker.
I know this probably won't go over well with other breakout owners but with upcoming road trip. I had to find a way to make some storage. On my last trip I nearly had to get the rear fender painted from the t-bag rubbing on the fender. So this is what I came up with. 2014 FL bags with a slightly modified baggertail bracket. Surprisingly I would consider these more or less detachable, only 3 bolts per bag to remove.
Last edited by Joe Reefer; Apr 25, 2015 at 11:52 AM.
I know this probably won't go over well with other breakout owners but with upcoming road trip. I had to find a way to make some storage. On my last trip I nearly had to get the rear fender painted from the t-bag rubbing on the fender. So this is what I came up with. 2014 FL bags with a slightly modified baggertail bracket. Surprisingly I would consider these more or less detachable, only 3 bolts per bag to remove.
That looks surprisingly nice, and with only 3 bolts per bag to remove, this would be practical for someone who occasionally tours. Can you provide some details on that "slightly modified bagger tail bracket"?
That looks surprisingly nice, and with only 3 bolts per bag to remove, this would be practical for someone who occasionally tours. Can you provide some details on that "slightly modified bagger tail bracket"?
Jim G
A big +1 to that! I don't generally care for bags, but those actually look really clean and provide a great option for making the Breakout more trip friendly without permanently altering the aesthetic. Would love part numbers and more details if you can.
One caution on the Street Glide bags: For those of us with longer exhausts, those bags might actually not fit above the exhausts (I have a D&D 2 into 1 "Low Cat" which is like the Fat Cat except tilts up just a bit, for use on lower ground clearance bikes like the Breakout). And, even if they do, the hot exhaust would exit the muffler right underneath the bags, which could damage, or even melt them or start fire. Someone needs to take some measurements before we know if this would work with longer exhausts than the poster has.
The brackets were for a deluxe The top tabs needed to be moved forward and new hole drilled were the lower part connects to the peg. I would be more concerned about the tail lights not fitting. I already had a chop z light installed this is for other reasons the Canadian bikes do not come with a side mount plate and the stock assembly is to say the least fugly.
I myself can't do it, as my Turbine chrome wheels have a custom matching rear pulley.
You spend only $157 plus whatever the hardware costs, you avoid having to disassemble the primary, and you still get a 3% gearing improvement (2T/66T = 3%).
Your speedo will be off 3% though, unless you use PowerVision or some other tunnies to correct the gearing factor in the ECM.
More importantly, if equipped with ABS, your ABS system might not like the difference between the stock and the new relative rear and front wheel rpm, and declare an emergency. I actually had that happen on a Chevy SSR retro pickup truck when my buddy and I swapped the ECM when we added a (575 hp) supercharger kit that came with the pre-programmed ECM, and forgot to reprogram the gearing factor in the ECM to match the 4.54 gearing we had previously successfully installed. The ABS system and traction control system both went crazy and had to be disabled until we corrected the gearing factor.
Jim G
All of my bikes had abs ,and no fault code was displayed when I changed rear pulley
The brackets were for a deluxe The top tabs needed to be moved forward and new hole drilled were the lower part connects to the peg. I would be more concerned about the tail lights not fitting. I already had a chop z light installed this is for other reasons the Canadian bikes do not come with a side mount plate and the stock assembly is to say the least fugly.
+1 for details on this. And also curious what your plate says? Is it personalized?
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