Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
Badges and reflectors are not hard to remove. let them get nice and hot out in that Arizona sun as it softens the adhesive backing - or use a heatgun to warm them up on low setting.
then use some string dental floss to saw through the adhesive between the badge and tank or reflector and fork / swingarm. be sure to pull forward a tiny bit while sawing so you are sawing against the back of the badge / reflector and not against the paint finish- otherwise you'll have some surface scratches and will require buffing compound to remove.
Once the badge is almost off you can pull it gently away- you'll have adhesive foam residue left on the paint, use some bug / tar remover, goof-off or citrus-based adhesive remover and a microfiber cloth to get this off the paint. then do a final clean with some water. if there is anything sticky left just repeat until it is gone. it should feel nice and smooth when done when wiping it with a microfiber cloth. anything sticky left will drag on the cloth.
Putting the new badges on takes some time measuring the locations first so they sit correctly, and both left / right sides are similar. I use green frog tape masking tape to place the badges and hold them where I want them so I can "eyeball" it. then I will use a couple of strips of masking tape on the tank with some pen marks on the tape, to create my "marker lines" of reference points so i can remove the taped-on badges, remove backing to expose adhesive, and place on tank correctly.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 635
Likes: 47
From: North Jersey, USA
OK ... I really hate asking this question .... but I'm wondering what everyone is seeing for ET's ... Engine Temperature's? I'm asking because yesterday my bike's computer activated the EITMS feature. According to the bike and my Power Vision, the ET was about 270°F. I say "about" because I shut the bike down before I worked thru the PV menu to find the ET info. By then the bike had cooled off a bit.
So I'm just wondering what temp range is typical.
So I'm just wondering what temp range is typical.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Steubenville, OH
Mine really depends on riding conditions, outside temperature, etc. The CVO has the 255 cams which are supposed to run hot, but my normal open road temperature on back roads (say 55 mph) is around 230-245°. As soon as I get into town or stopped at a light the temp quickly works up from there. It hasn't even been that warm here yet and I've had EITMS engage a couple times on me cruising through town.
For this reason, I have a Ward's fan on the way.
For this reason, I have a Ward's fan on the way.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
i get up to 280 riding in town on a 80+ degree day on the stop / go stuff. running quite a bit of timing advance though. engine temp management only comes on at a stop or very slow cruise, mine is set to come on at 140c and off at 135c. have not had it come on yet though.
Open road temps at speed should of course be lower like 250/240/230 due to air cooling of motor.
Open road temps at speed should of course be lower like 250/240/230 due to air cooling of motor.
I've seen temps of 250s to 260s down the highway at 75 to 80 mph when it's hot outside. Traffic turns the heat up real quick. Just the way it is. Air cooled motors run hot. Ambient temps have a huge effect on the engine temp. If your bike is tuned well, remove the pv from the handlebars and ride.
Last edited by cdonis; May 1, 2015 at 07:30 PM.
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